I'm a newbie here. First of all I'm a car idiot so I don't know much about cars but I've been able to do some research on my problem.

Car in question is a 2003 G35 Sedan with Sport Suspension.

Ist problem - My car squeaks non-stop both on bumps and even-roads. Squeaks are all coming from the rear. Sometimes the front driver side squeaks a little then goes away. I made some research on this forum and found out the problem was related to worn endlinks, bushings, sway bars, and xbrace. I did tighten the xbrace but that did not solve the problem on the rear so I'm guessing it has to be between the other three.

2nd problem - When on the highway going around 70-80 mph, my car sways or jerks to the left or right depending on where the wind is coming from. Sometimes when behind a semi, I can feel the turbulence pulling my car left or right. This did not happen on my older '92 camry. I took it to a mechanic workshop and had them look at it. They checked my tires for feathering around the inside walls but it was all okay. They had my tires rotated and did an alignment but that did not stop the problem. I took the car to a second place and they told me the alignment was off. I had to pay again to get it redone but ..uh yea the problem was still there. (Tires are new if anyone is wondering)

3rd problem - The car dips to the left whenever I make a right turn. It's as if the whole car wants to roll over whenever I make a right turn. I'm guessing worn shocks or bad endlinks in the front?

Final problem - I have a really loud noise coming from the front of my vehicle. It seems to be from the driver side tire. How do I explain the noise? Like cutting a metal with a hacksaw? It's as though two pieces of metal are rubbing against each other. It stops whenever I apply brakes really hard or come to a full stop. Sometimes when I turn to the right or left, it starts up again and continues till I come to a stop again. I asked the guys at autozone and midas and they said it could be a bad wheel bearing or damaged brake rotor. Then again I don't want to throw money and get those changed only for the problem to still be there.

I want to first get a possible answer here before I start throwing money again. If anyone can take the time to point me to the right direction, I'll be grateful. I'm thinking of fixing all these issues myself. They seem easy to do with a little bit of tutorial and the right tools. I've had horrible experiences with car shops. It's as though they fix one issue and break something else so I would come back and waste more money.

 

Def sounds like control arm issues
How do the bushings look

 

They are still on there tight. I applied some lithium grease on it yesterday but it was still squeaking

 

they're not blown ?

 

Nope.

 

how are your sways lookin

 

I don't see anything wrong with the rear sway but I could be wrong. I tried checking for horizontal or vertical movement but it's on there tight even when I push or pull it. Is there anything else I should be looking for in a bad sway?

Edit: I have not checked the front

 

You might be right on bushings. I got to check the front today and noticed all bushings on the control arms were bad. Someone suggested I get whiteline bushings but what do you suggest? I'm thinking of changing bushings on the whole car as the ones I have now are all stock. The sways and links are holding up well and are stock. I might consider changing links later but the stock ones will do for now.

 

Replace bushings, more than likely worn down or dry-rot. (Especially if from west side of US.)

As much as I hate to say it, this is normal behavior. The vehicle is much more responsive in steering compared to an economy car. As long as the car drives straight on straight-aways, has no weird vibrations, and doesn't hop up and down on the freeway, its normal behavior. The only fix you could possibly do, is a new bushings, and possibly a new steering rack (doubtful on the steering rack though).

Shocks prevent bounce. Springs allow movement for bumps in the road surface. Endlinks keep the steering true. Sway bars keep the car from dipping. I would wager, your bushings are worn or torn, which relates to the other two issues above as well.

Autozone and Midas are correct. Do the Rotors and Brakes first (can be self done for under $60) and then if problem continues, you know its a wheel bearing (can be self done, but its up to your confidence as a mechanic/skill level).

Hope it helps, and welcome

 

Thank you. Very detailed explanation . Every answer I have gotten till now points towards bushings. I did check the bushings on both front control arms and noticed they were bad. I will get that done in a week or two and post here with my results. Could you suggest what brand of bushings to get? Someone else suggested whitelines poly.

 

YW, just trying to help.

Polyurethane bushings will make your car nice and tight, but expect to feel much more vibrations and harshness.

If you like stock feel, get OEM. But replace ALL of them with OEM, or the other parts will just wear down and fail almost immediately.

I had an 88 Corolla with poly motor mounts, and I loved the feel of it, so solid.. But it's not for everyone.

 

I didn't get this part:

Do you mean if I replace parts with poly instead of OEM, other parts will fail?

I was thinking of doing poly on only areas that take more beating and OEM on the rest.

 

Going partial poly, will fail OEM parts that didn't get replaced.

For example, lets say you replace 1 motor mount with Poly, and leave other OEM. The Poly does not move or vibrate like an OEM part, so now that vibration will go to the weakest link, the OEM part.

If you replace the bushings with Poly, get a kit and replace ALL the bushings.

If you replace the mounts with Poly, replace ALL the mounts.

If you want to replace one or two parts here and there, go with OEM, so it wont over stress the remaining OEM parts.

Does that make sense? I hope it does.

 

It does make sense. Thanks again for the explanation. I will be getting OEM.

Where can I buy decent OEM bushings? What brand do you recommend?

Sorry for the nooby questions

 

For piece by piece, Rockauto.com might be best, or a full replacement bushing kit (but that can be like $400+!)

Energy is well known for sport bushings, not OEM. As for OEM, I would say one or two steps above the cheapest one, and always avoid anything that has 'value' in the name somewhere.