Need help with a few questions
#17
02-26-2016, 07:07 PM
#18
02-26-2016, 07:49 PM
10 years life experience working on multiple engines
#19
02-26-2016, 07:53 PM
. How harsh is poly compared to OEM? Also it seems RocksAuto does not have front OEM bushings for 2003 G35. I'll shop around.
#20
02-26-2016, 08:09 PM
Polyurethane mounts don't move hardly, so every vibration, bump, etc, will be felt in your steering wheel, seat, and car. There is SOME dampening, its not a solid metal mount, but it is at least twice as tight as OEM. If that helps gauge it at all :/
Some people love the feeling (me), some people don't.
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Justice06RR (04-04-2016)
#21
02-26-2016, 08:22 PM
The non performance ones are OEM specs. It doesn't have to say OEM next to the item.
Polyurethane mounts don't move hardly, so every vibration, bump, etc, will be felt in your steering wheel, seat, and car. There is SOME dampening, its not a solid metal mount, but it is at least twice as tight as OEM. If that helps gauge it at all :/
Some people love the feeling (me), some people don't.
Polyurethane mounts don't move hardly, so every vibration, bump, etc, will be felt in your steering wheel, seat, and car. There is SOME dampening, its not a solid metal mount, but it is at least twice as tight as OEM. If that helps gauge it at all :/
Some people love the feeling (me), some people don't.
#22
04-04-2016, 05:01 PM
Got all these solved last week. Took a while because I was doing this myself.
1st problem - Turned out it was the rear endlinks. The oem ones I had were tiny. I replaced them with the beefy whiteline endlinks and the problem was solved. I took extra measures to loosen my rear seat and tighten xbrace (it's unrelated).
2nd problem - Bushings were the problem. Most of all the ones in the front control arm was gone. After a great deal of research, I had to go poly for the front and oem at the rear.
3rd problem - Changing bushings fixed this issue also.
Final problem - Oddly both the wheel bearing and Rotor were in bad shape. I had to replace the wheel bearing and machine the rotor in order to get this fixed.
I did tire rotation, wheel balancing and an alignment also. Now the car rides like new.
If you're changing your bushings to poly, try this grease from energy suspension and forget about squeaks. It's real sticky.
Just an FYI - If a shop is doing any suspension work for you, take extra effort, look under your car and check out the work they did. A friend of mine broke his sway bay because the person that replaced his links forgot to re-insert the 22mm bolt near the sway bar bracket.
Special Thanks to Jnovuse, jerseytaylor, and hurleyguys for making this happen
1st problem - Turned out it was the rear endlinks. The oem ones I had were tiny. I replaced them with the beefy whiteline endlinks and the problem was solved. I took extra measures to loosen my rear seat and tighten xbrace (it's unrelated).
2nd problem - Bushings were the problem. Most of all the ones in the front control arm was gone. After a great deal of research, I had to go poly for the front and oem at the rear.
3rd problem - Changing bushings fixed this issue also.
Final problem - Oddly both the wheel bearing and Rotor were in bad shape. I had to replace the wheel bearing and machine the rotor in order to get this fixed.
I did tire rotation, wheel balancing and an alignment also. Now the car rides like new.
If you're changing your bushings to poly, try this grease from energy suspension and forget about squeaks. It's real sticky.
Just an FYI - If a shop is doing any suspension work for you, take extra effort, look under your car and check out the work they did. A friend of mine broke his sway bay because the person that replaced his links forgot to re-insert the 22mm bolt near the sway bar bracket.
Special Thanks to Jnovuse, jerseytaylor, and hurleyguys for making this happen
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