Hey everyone I’m having issues with my g and was wondering if anyone knew what could be wrong . Got the car with overheating problems. Replaced radiator , fuel pump , thermostat , radiator fan and timing chain was brand spanking new . Got everything going . Bled the air out the coolant (or thought I did) . Drove it around for a bit then seen temp gauge going up . Thought I didn’t get all the air trapped in the coolant system so I try and bleed again . Some little air bubbles came out . I took the car on a drive again and same thing happens . Car temp goes up when I’m idling . It’ll cool off if I get the car up to 2500-3500rpm . Someone told me to drive it to get the last bit of air bubbles out but it’s been 500 miles and still no sign of getting better . Anyone know what’s wrong ? It’s been bothering me for the past couple

 

Are you running the AC on the hottest temperature setting with the fans on max? Is the car blowing hot air when it's up to temp?

 

My cars ac and heat works flawlessly at temp .

 

I'd start with a coolant pressure test. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's 100% sealed up. If it can't generate pressure it WILL boil over eventually.

 

ran a pressure test . Car holds pressure . Everything checks out . I’m pretty sure it’s just a tiny bubble somewhere …

 

My preferred method for getting stubborn bubbles out is to get the car up to operating temp, accelerate wide open throttle through first gear, then slam on the brakes hard enough to almost trigger the ABS. This throws the weight of the coolant around inside the engine and will dislodge bubbles.

If that doesn't do it then slalom the car left/right/left/right which will work out bubbles that direction.

Are you sure your fans are kicking on to low/high properly? You can force the fans to high speed to verify they're working by turning the AC on.

 

I bought my G with a cracked radiator. Replaced that and spent 4 hours getting all the air out. Acted just like yours at first. I bought a radiator bleed kit (50.00 at parts store) and ran the car till full temp, opened the bleeder cap several times till air bubbles stopped. Than shut it off for 30 minutes. During this break i pulled the coolant line on rail @ at driver side above exhaust manifold and using a a rubber hose and sucked on it till coolant flowed. Put the hose back on. This helped get coolant to the thermostat. started it again and repeated the bleeding at cap near passenger side firewall several more times leaving it running. Once the bubbles stopped, I reved it to 2500 - 3500 rpm @ 2-3 minute intervals several times and bled at cap at idle each time until no air was left. Top off overflow tank and you should be good. Oh, and make sure you jack up the front of the car till radiator cap is higher than the heater core, this is important. Like I said, took my G 4 hours to let the air go. It's frustrating how sensitive these cars are to bleed. I pray the previous owners didnt use radiator stop leak. Blockage at heater core would not be good. Good luck.

 

I use a coolant vacuum kit, then get it up to temp and do the hard braking/acceleration trick. Takes about 5 minutes and has worked the last dozen or so times flawlessly.

Without using the vacuum kit the biggest thing is to open the purge valves and ADD COOLANT SLOWLY! If you just dump it all in then you are guaranteed to be trapping bubbles, add at a rate no faster than 1 gallon per minute until it pours from the purge valves, then put those caps back in and continue to add slowly.

I'm suspecting that this isn't an air bubble issue though since he has hot air at the heater, more likely it's a fan or water pump issue since it cools back off when revving or driving.