Hawaii Honolulu

coilover options

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  #16  
Old 08-15-2006, 01:42 AM
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^ yes. also, if you have a good coilover, and swap those springs for Swifts, you'll notice a great amount of differene. not to mention weight savings.
 
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:07 AM
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It's funny though today I almost went for the rsr titanium coilover. Was debating that all day today.
 
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Old 08-27-2006, 03:52 AM
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Since the search functions sucks, .. and this thread came up on my search for the Silk Road coilovers....

How do you like them? Pros? Cons?
 
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Old 08-28-2006, 03:26 PM
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-I love'em.
 
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Old 08-28-2006, 04:16 PM
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Talking

Originally Posted by 636Racer
-I love'em.
good for the street and track?
are they true coilovers? Did you ever race/auotX with them before the track closed down? What spring rates are you running?

sorry for all the questions ...

anyone running the buddy clubs out there? those seem too still for the streets... any experienced comments on them?

(i ask you guys b/c i moved from HI a couple years ago, ... i haven't been one place long enough to know what any other roads are like, ... waikele is still my home in my head! LOL )
 
  #21  
Old 08-28-2006, 05:17 PM
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both street and track. They were a big improvement next to the swaybars. they complement each other well - goes for pretty much any coilover or aftermarket upgrade. I used the recommened settings, 10kg(f)/8kg(r).

On the track, they gave great predictable feel I dialed the suspension in so that I could drive more with the rear end - sliding. having a more stiffer front, and a forgiving rear. more preload up front, less preload in the rear, equal damping on all 4 at 4 clicks right in the middle. some people like the opposite because the car understeers in stock form...since I drive *** out, it's no problem for me.

On the street, they behave well. they're a little harsh. I finally setup the front and rear for street...some spirited driving here and there, but nothing wreckless. I do get a little bump steer, but that's pretty typical from lowered cars that battle the streets of Oahu. I just haveto play with my alignments next, maybe tweak with the preload a little more...maybe lessen the damping. it's always a one-for with these things.

I really dont have any other suspension setups to compare the silks to as far as G35s and 350Z's go. But on other cars...silks are pretty hardcore, they're like JIC FLA2 when you first buy them and use'm. unlike the JIC's, the Silks last longer..much longer.

A while back, I drove two 240sx's back to back. one with buddyclub and the other with silk. both on the track - drift session, both with about the same heat time - appx. 10mi. the 240 with the silks felt more sure footed and still had more predictable handling vs the 240 with the buddy club. the 240 with the buddy club started to feel slopply after 15-20 minutes of drifting. the first 8-10 minutes, they were fine. that help conclude it to get the silks.

Stance is another hardcore coilover and new comer. and very affordable if you're looking for true coilovers. from what I hear, better than D2 and Megan coilovers with similar price ranges. be aware that there are a found few who're using true coilover types are getting cracked rear spindles...more than likely because of the increased impact on the suspension due to the spring rates. this is why I'm holding off on converting the silks to true coilovers, tilll spherecal bearings are made to fit. - or a kit for a complete bushing/bearing overhaul.
 

Last edited by 636Racer; 08-28-2006 at 05:20 PM.
  #22  
Old 08-29-2006, 09:46 AM
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Thanks! that's more of the info I was looking for....
I was just about to buy the Zeals or even the Tanabe Sevens, ... but I need that extra bit of money for my build.
And the 10 / 8 spring rates are what I was going to go with (that, or 10/9).

I really hesitated from getting a true coilover b/c of the possible problems I foresaw with the rear spindle/support arm, that was the first thing I though about when I saw the RS*R coilovers on my friends G,... and now people are seeing that. Alex (battle version) said he would make a few different options if there was enough interest, so maybe there will be some replacement 'bushings' out soon. That still leaves the question of the strength of that aluminum
I know a lot of people are getting the Stance, ... but again, that may lead to other problems that i just don't feel like dealing with...

Thanks again for the review..
Sean
 

Last edited by NoLimit; 08-29-2006 at 09:51 AM.
  #23  
Old 10-31-2006, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by NoLimit
Thanks! that's more of the info I was looking for....
I was just about to buy the Zeals or even the Tanabe Sevens, ... but I need that extra bit of money for my build.
And the 10 / 8 spring rates are what I was going to go with (that, or 10/9).

I really hesitated from getting a true coilover b/c of the possible problems I foresaw with the rear spindle/support arm, that was the first thing I though about when I saw the RS*R coilovers on my friends G,... and now people are seeing that. Alex (battle version) said he would make a few different options if there was enough interest, so maybe there will be some replacement 'bushings' out soon. That still leaves the question of the strength of that aluminum
I know a lot of people are getting the Stance, ... but again, that may lead to other problems that i just don't feel like dealing with...

Thanks again for the review..
Sean

sorry for such a long bump, but what did you mean by the rear problems on the spindle/support arm? please explain, i want to get coils just dont know which ones would i prefer. thanks!
 
  #24  
Old 10-31-2006, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by driftGT350
sorry for such a long bump, but what did you mean by the rear problems on the spindle/support arm? please explain, i want to get coils just dont know which ones would i prefer. thanks!
the bottom of the coilover mounts to the spindle, and the added pressure is pressed against the bushing. if you set the coilover to super stiff, it'll eventually wear the oem bushings out prematurely.

springs alone will not do anything of this sort because all you replace is the spring. the spring is not located on the shock in oem fashion. instead, it's seperated.
 
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