It's over a month since my new arm links; I was checking and retighten the rear suspension and over tighten a worn 12mm. Here's a pic "with was" going be new 13mms.

Behind the rear seat, were I access my dampers:

I guess I have drive like grandma for a while.

 

i highly recommend you not drive until you get this fixed. seriously. also, i don't think you over tightened. i think you threaded it on incorrectly, and stipped it.

 

stripped the bolt!! ahhhhhhhhh!!!!

 

once i incorrectly threaded a spark plug and i stripped the heads of my 71 VW...hahaha!!!! fricken thing blew out of the motor and busted through the engine hood.. ON THE FREEWAY!

 

Was it a graded bolt?

 

hehe it's a real herbie bug.

Since the bolt's head is really welded with the chassis. I think I’m going drive around look for some kind of bolt kits, dremel off the shortened stud, & drill through for the new bolt. Any better ideas/hints/tips??? Thanks

 

Go to Hawaii Nuts and Bolts in Mapunapuna, by the old Mid Pac lumber yard...ask for Ben Kahanu. Tell him you know Chris Billete, he's an old baseball team mate of mines from highschool. I hope he still works there.

 

mang... that's not good... wut duh... JB WELD em...

 

You can also try Industrial Hardware Hawaii, but Hawaii Nut & Bolt is definitely preferable.

You need to make sure you match the grade on the bolt/stud correctly. You don't want a mounting point to go before the bolt, if the car is designed so that the bolt goes first.

 

JB what what???

 

JB weld is a bad idea.

 

Whoa, dirty JD! You like make me break my car aye! Haha, "breakInspired."

 

Yo, the "dremel off the shortened stud, & drill through for the new bolt" plan worked...

Big mahalo to skylar's help on this.

 

good fix, where did you end up buying the nut and bolt?

 

^Thanks. Lowe's; so far selections for automotive nuts/bolts are okay. Since this was not done in a shop, we use the rear a-arm and diamond floor jack to give the hammerdrill an extra push from the ground.