An intake on a Z/G/FX will not yield those kinds of numbers, even with all the additional mods you listed. The intake openings and airbox size is MORE than enough to flow the air needed for all the mods you listed. The restriction is not in the intake box or snorkels. It's primarily in the intake manifold, heads, and somewhat the headers.

 

thanks for the input...

but first of all, i specifically stated that those are hypothetical numbers only to get my point across

and the point that i'm trying to make is an intake with produce more hps when used with other exhaust mods, rather than just the intake by itself

thats it...this discussion has nothing to with bottlenecks, "waking up monsters" or specific gains from an intake

 

You missed my point. The stock intake isn't a restriction. Opening up the exhaust doesn't require opening up the stock intake because the intake can already meet the demands of NA mods.

 

i'm sure it's gonna sound ****in sweet!!!

 

i understand your point...but what does that have to do with anything me and athen was discussing?

or were you just making a off topic statement?

 

This has been what I'm telling you all along.

 

this is the real waste of money....

https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...=1#post1416457

 

/\ I've seen that...

 

Not true. If you have a MD spacer/Mrev kit the stock intake will restrict the full hp gains of that system. It did on mine and after the Stillen was added it showed the full gains that the MREV should get. My car never gained the full amount from the mrev kit due to the stock intake being restrictive.

 

I don't know about those figures for the FI set-up. I investigated going FI about six months ago and I think the final figure I came up with was around 10K to do a Stillen Stage 2 along with all the recommended/required mods (gauge cluster, chip, beefier engine internals, etc.) I think the hood worked out to the better part of a $1000. I think Stillen's website was selling it for ~$600 unpainted, so add a few more $$$ for that + shipping. I know you can save yourself a lot of money by doing the install yourself, but I doubt that most people going FI have the knowledge/experience to do it by themselves. $10K seems more reasonable for your average Joe.

By contrast, many of the bolt-ons that people on this board have bought can be installed by a novice or intermediate owner. So while they may not make as much raw power as FI, they do provide fun ways to improve the car yourself at relatively low cost.

Just a thought from a guy with zero mods so far.

 

First, sorry for bringing this up since this is out of topic.
1. We don't use a Chip,
2. Stillen uses an SS box (Included with the kit) and it is lock and not tunable. this is why it is a real plug-play FI system you can get.
3. You don't need to upgrade the internal because Stillen SC don't produce big power. I used the Stillen Stage 2 because with this you can add an engine warranty around $250.
3. Don't you think you'll pay shipping for every time you order NA parts online?
4. If you think installing a Crawford headers is a piece of cake then installing a Root type blower(Stillen) will be a easy.
5. Ask any one who went NA and after everything is said and done FI will always be cheaper when you look at $$ to power ratio.
6. If you want cheaper then Vortech will be the way to go coz you don't need a new hood and it cheaper than Stillen.

10K for Stillen Stage 2 is really alot.

 

i bet if you add about 20 stickers to your car you could get 20+ hp =]... you know how fast and the furious **** is...the more stickers the more hp you get

 

Good info - like I said those were my general impressions from some reading a long time ago. Couple points though:

Obviously the shipping cost exists for both types of mods. Just throwing it out there as another cost. Besides, I can't imagine shipping costs are the same for a $5K+ FI kit as a Z-tube or CAI.

Please read more carefully:
That's right, "many" does not mean "all."

Again, please re-read:
There's nothing in there about $$ to power ratio. I even pointed out that FI will always make more power than NA mods. I did not say that NA mods were cheaper and more effective. They're just individually cheaper than going FI. I suppose if someone is obsessed enough to buy every NA mod out there, then yeah, they'd be an idiot.

I'd love to go FI, but I just don't have that kind of money, at least not in one place at one time. So for now, (mild) performance and appearance mods are a nice way to compliment the base car. Get off the FI-preaching, NA mod trashing high horse.

 

/\ I could care less if you go FI or not. I just want to point out that your research is flawed. FI is not for everyone and I have no intention to preach or bash NA mod. I'm just giving people option because a lot of Newbs (Been There Done That) wasted lot's of NA Mod and in the end went FI. All I'm trying to say is that know your goals and you'll save more $$ in the end.

Have you seen how many people buy useless stuff that think that it will make a difference?

Enjoy.

 

I think I admitted that possibility at the end of my first post, as well as at the beginning of my last post. No need to belabor that point.

So let's say I intend to go FI in the future, but in the meantime I'd like to add a few things while I save up the requisite X thousand dollars. What NA mods would also be valuable with an FI set-up?