I have an 2006 g35x sedan and i am putting on the stillen headers and catback exhaust... how many HP Gain and Torque will i gain...... Wat kind of springs can i use to go lower besides the Eibach.... Theres is not much to do with the AWD..... How can you upload pics to this site....

 

Probably looking at a good 75whp if you have the g35x - they respond to mods almost as though its a turbocharged engine. Another thing you should look into getting is the vortex tornado turbonator - it is really effective for gas milage as well as performance (atleast 15 WHP).

-Sean

 

LOL, and a few NOS stickers as well. Funny yes, helpful no. From what I've read you may see 10-15whp. The next few mods you should look at (best bang for the buck) is the 5/16" intake spacer (10-12whp), coupe mid pipe (maybe 5whp, more weight reduction than anything), then the sound good mods like Z tube & Filter. Lowering? look for a set of OEM Z suspension (probably going to run you around $300) complete bolt on and will drop the car about 1" all the way around. A lot of people will run (Unrevised) Z springs in the front ('03 Z springs) and coupe springs in the rear with stock shocks / struts for a very even drop.

Good luck.

 

I would not expect much from the Stillen headers. They are overpriced and don't do much. I would do the Crawford or Alphawerks if I was going to put headers on.

 

Hey has a X so he can only run the z spring and rear shocks. No front shocks for our car unless you do the wet kit from Koni. As for suspension. I am running 350z h-tech in the front and coupe in the rear, it gives it a really even stance. I just got my rear konis in. I feels different to me, but the test is when I get people in there which I should be doing this weekend. Then I might just adjust to fully stiff. LOL If you just want to do spring get H&R they give a even stance and I heard they have a good ride. I might go with them but I want atleast 2 or maybe 1 finger gap. Tank how much was the gap when you ran them.

Edit Tank is this when you had H&R

 

the labor cost for a header isn't worth the money into the G. go turbo and don't look back--- right ttrank?

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you'll be a bit slower off the line and a bit faster on top end. The few hp to the wheels that you get should take a fraction of a second off your 1/4 mile time. Even less from 0-60.

 

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Yes that is correct. As our cars come pretty well tuned from the factory. Since they are pretty well tuned it doesn't give for much room in performance gains.

One thing you might want to look into after adding any kind of breathing mod is some type of piggy back system (u-tech, fcon, afc, ect..) or go with a ECU reflash from AAM or technosquare. You will get the most out of your mods after you go with some kind of tuning device.

-Sean

 

does anyone have dyno sheets showing the movement of the torque curve that would lessen the off the line/low end power? i could see if you simply threw the headers on and did not follow the advice above concerning tuning but otherwise, does not really make sense.

 

You know it buddy!

Headers are a PITA and can cost hundreds to install. Not worth it for the 5hp IMO.

 

Not "tank", it's Trank (my last name)

Yeah that is with the H&R springs on.

 

that is what i am confused about. everyone keeps saying less than 8whp for headers but no one has any sheets/runs to show it. im not saying you are wrong but i have yet to run across any evidence. ive got a hookup on the labor and plan to get headers but still deciding on which ones to go with. if i can get around12-15hp with the headers after a little tuning which wont run anything as well, then i will be more than happy. also, having less heat in the engine bay by removing the exhaust manifolds will be an additional benefit.

 

I have seen a number of dynos over on my350z and a few on here. The Crawfords and Alphawerks seem to make 10-15hp and the rest make a few or even loose a few.

Unless you Jethot coat them or wrap them you are not going to loose much heat under the hood. Wrap can cause them to crack due to the heat.

If possible try to get a dyno before you put them on and another right after.

 

i have looked over there but apparently not well enough. i was leaning towards the alphas at the moment. i do have a baseline and plan to redyno at the same place. also i only use sae numbers to help zero out any other influences. my last set of headers were hotshot and were not jet coated. they simply held less heat than the exhaust manifolds whether due to material or increased velocity of the air. i used an infrared thermometer to measure the exhaust manifolds then the headers under the same heat/weather conditions. the headers were consistently 10-15 degrees cooler which will lead to less radiant heat.

 

This is one of those upgrades you would not fully notice on a dyno since they usually dyno with the hood open and a fan blowing. It would most likely be noticed on the street where the hood is closed and engine temps can affect performance.
DC Sports has a header that comes ceramic coated and they are CARB certified (don't know if this matters in Mass). I am not sure if this is the same process Hotshot uses or not, but it couldn't hurt to ask DC Sports.