HFC and oil consumption
Originally Posted by ISMSOLUTIONS
OK - so just about any catch can can fit or be made to fit the car. I used the DIY and made my own for about $20. Works great, is nice and small. I am not sure why you have to remove the snorkel on the car though. I am not familiar with every catch can out there - I had the ARC in hand though, and sent it back. Not at all worth the money.
Catch cans are to be used, on our cars at least, in-line with the PCV system - the passenger side of the car. The breather hose connects to the PCV valve on the front of the valve cover and then goes to the front of the intake. The catch can sits in-line and interrupts the flow and settles the vapor into the can and lets the cleaner air through to release crankcase pressure.
You an also add another catch can to the breather on the driver side. I hate that the breather goes directly on the air intake - as it forces the oil vapor right into the intake system. The force of air pulls the vapor right into the intake stream. There is far less vapor on that side of the engine - but nonetheless, why have ANY of you don't need to.
For ~45 - you can have both catch cans that are really easy to service.
You also mentioned having an extra quart of oil?? Explain?
Rick
Attached is a picture of the let side of my engine bay - the dark blue thing - that's the catch can - just next to the coolant overflow.
Catch cans are to be used, on our cars at least, in-line with the PCV system - the passenger side of the car. The breather hose connects to the PCV valve on the front of the valve cover and then goes to the front of the intake. The catch can sits in-line and interrupts the flow and settles the vapor into the can and lets the cleaner air through to release crankcase pressure.
You an also add another catch can to the breather on the driver side. I hate that the breather goes directly on the air intake - as it forces the oil vapor right into the intake system. The force of air pulls the vapor right into the intake stream. There is far less vapor on that side of the engine - but nonetheless, why have ANY of you don't need to.
For ~45 - you can have both catch cans that are really easy to service.
You also mentioned having an extra quart of oil?? Explain?
Rick
Attached is a picture of the let side of my engine bay - the dark blue thing - that's the catch can - just next to the coolant overflow.
The arc v.2 can is mounted horizontally below the plenum b/c it is made for the Z. The G has the short ram snorkel stock in this area.
Current engine bay:
arc catch can v.2 mounted on z:
Then, there is the v.1 modified by AAM--dunno if that could be fit in a g coupe engine bay:
The AAM modified one is the one I had - teh work quality was some of the WORST I have ever seen. When I went to return it, it took 2 months to get the money back. I will never do business with them again. Tehy offered me a special discount for their return line kit - and I went to buy it, and they refused the discount - and that was after getting an email confirmation and special discount code from them.
Anyway - the DIT version works just perfectly - save your money and time. You can always polish or paint the blue top as well.
Rick
Anyway - the DIT version works just perfectly - save your money and time. You can always polish or paint the blue top as well.
Rick
Rick, regarding the steel mesh in the DIY oil catch can... I've always been concerned deterioration and the steel bits exiting the bowl... Are you certain this won’t happen? I have the home made catch can and have read about people using the steel wool as a filter, but – are we certain it won’t break apart even in tiny bits and make it’s way out of the catch bowl?…
Originally Posted by OCG35
Rick, regarding the steel mesh in the DIY oil catch can... I've always been concerned deterioration and the steel bits exiting the bowl... Are you certain this won’t happen? I have the home made catch can and have read about people using the steel wool as a filter, but – are we certain it won’t break apart even in tiny bits and make it’s way out of the catch bowl?…
So - I get it, cut a piece off, and then shake it out a little, there are no pieces, etc, and install away. It's been more than 3 months now - never an issue - I can't see how I'd ever need to replace it either.
Rick
Originally Posted by ISMSOLUTIONS
I was the first to say - why the F do that...it's engine suicide! So I went and bought the stuff - it's not steel wool mind you, it's a stainless steel mesh - much thicker and wider than steel wool and wont break up that way.
So - I get it, cut a piece off, and then shake it out a little, there are no pieces, etc, and install away. It's been more than 3 months now - never an issue - I can't see how I'd ever need to replace it either.
Rick
So - I get it, cut a piece off, and then shake it out a little, there are no pieces, etc, and install away. It's been more than 3 months now - never an issue - I can't see how I'd ever need to replace it either.
Rick
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From: PNW in Washington
6MT Coupe
Originally Posted by ISMSOLUTIONS
I was the first to say - why the F do that...it's engine suicide! So I went and bought the stuff - it's not steel wool mind you, it's a stainless steel mesh - much thicker and wider than steel wool and wont break up that way.
So - I get it, cut a piece off, and then shake it out a little, there are no pieces, etc, and install away. It's been more than 3 months now - never an issue - I can't see how I'd ever need to replace it either.
Rick
So - I get it, cut a piece off, and then shake it out a little, there are no pieces, etc, and install away. It's been more than 3 months now - never an issue - I can't see how I'd ever need to replace it either.
Rick
Perhaps rinsing the mesh in a solvent for extra confidence for no micro particles on mesh before installing.
Just my .02
Originally Posted by 06CPV35
Awesome idea...props
Perhaps rinsing the mesh in a solvent for extra confidence for no micro particles on mesh before installing.
Just my .02
Perhaps rinsing the mesh in a solvent for extra confidence for no micro particles on mesh before installing.
Just my .02
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From: PNW in Washington
6MT Coupe
Originally Posted by ISMSOLUTIONS
Actually - while the mesh was in my hand, after cutting and shaking it, I sprayed it with brake cleaner....
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From: MD & NOVA
BUMP back from the dead... so did we conclude that HFCs will not be a contributing factor for oil consumption issues?
Some of us G37 peeps are wondering because of rumors and such that we read/heard.
I was advised by the Master Tech at my local dealer, who also happens to be an associate editor for Nissan Sport Magazine, not to add HFCs to my G37. He indicated this is a quick way to get the infamous oil consumption issue and was also a contributing cause on the G35's.
Safe to call BS ?
Some of us G37 peeps are wondering because of rumors and such that we read/heard.
I was advised by the Master Tech at my local dealer, who also happens to be an associate editor for Nissan Sport Magazine, not to add HFCs to my G37. He indicated this is a quick way to get the infamous oil consumption issue and was also a contributing cause on the G35's.
Safe to call BS ?
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From: PNW in Washington
6MT Coupe
Never had HFC's and still don't. Always had OC and still do...VQ35DE block, revup series.
HFC's are not the cause of the infamous OC issue with G35's. It's the rings and pistons with those.
I call BS on that Master Tech's reason for OC.
Just my .02
HFC's are not the cause of the infamous OC issue with G35's. It's the rings and pistons with those.
I call BS on that Master Tech's reason for OC.
Just my .02
Originally Posted by Ahujadaddy
BUMP back from the dead... so did we conclude that HFCs will not be a contributing factor for oil consumption issues?
Some of us G37 peeps are wondering because of rumors and such that we read/heard.
I was advised by the Master Tech at my local dealer, who also happens to be an associate editor for Nissan Sport Magazine, not to add HFCs to my G37. He indicated this is a quick way to get the infamous oil consumption issue and was also a contributing cause on the G35's.
Safe to call BS ?
Some of us G37 peeps are wondering because of rumors and such that we read/heard.
I was advised by the Master Tech at my local dealer, who also happens to be an associate editor for Nissan Sport Magazine, not to add HFCs to my G37. He indicated this is a quick way to get the infamous oil consumption issue and was also a contributing cause on the G35's.
Safe to call BS ?
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From: MD & NOVA
yea, misinformation i suspect. just trying to clear it up and get to the bottom of it. so far everyone is saying that HFCs will be fine. thanks!
gonna hafta talk to the tech again and call BS.
gonna hafta talk to the tech again and call BS.
High Flow Catalytic Converters.
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From: Miami, Florida
To v35-skyline-gt. I am the Owner of the notorius VQ35DE MT6 High Rev engine.
From all I know so far, the only difference between the high rev engine and the rest of the others is the automatic intake valve timing control, which creates the high rev situation, which is controlled by computer and activated by oil pressure.
So that means oil rings, pistons, etc are all the same on all engines.
If so then the only thing left is the extra vacuum and power created by the valve timing.
We can leave the extra power out because we know of many owners upgraded the engines including Turbo and that did mot caused premature oil burning !
So wht's left is the added vacuum from the intake valves being automatically advanced or retarded to increase power and tork. When we find what exactly this does, we will find why the extra oil burning !
From all I know so far, the only difference between the high rev engine and the rest of the others is the automatic intake valve timing control, which creates the high rev situation, which is controlled by computer and activated by oil pressure.
So that means oil rings, pistons, etc are all the same on all engines.
If so then the only thing left is the extra vacuum and power created by the valve timing.
We can leave the extra power out because we know of many owners upgraded the engines including Turbo and that did mot caused premature oil burning !
So wht's left is the added vacuum from the intake valves being automatically advanced or retarded to increase power and tork. When we find what exactly this does, we will find why the extra oil burning !