Hello everyone. Before I get hazed, I did the "search" option and did not find what I was looking for...So...here it goes.

For those of you that have HFC (Fast Intentions or Crawfords) and engines without the oil consumption issue...have you noticed if your oil levels are going down due to a low back pressure?

I am ordering some FI HFC 300 cell cats and was wondering this.

Thanks for your replies.

-JayDOMO

 

You won't loose oil from a reduction is backpressure at this level. Cars with oil consumption issues, could loose more, but still doubtful.

These cars have a lot of blowby to begin with, so they wear down aftermarket exhaust parts faster over time.

As you mod the car and make it more efficient at burning fuel - by allowing a stronger explosion, more heat will build up and therefore crankcase pressures will also rise. This produces more blowby - so more oil vapor passing through the system.

Now - how much as far as quantity are we talking here - oh..maybe a tablespoon or 2 per month. 1/4 of a quart per oil change - purely from blowby.

N/A and FI cars especially, benefit from oil catch cans. These will trap that oil vapor and keep it from getting into the intake system, and thus into the combustion chamber. When this happens, you lose octane in your gas, loose mileage, potentially detonate more, and lose performance.

Another side-effect of blowby, is that oil vapor ends up in your exhaust system. Oil doesn't burn off like gas does. So you begin to slowly clog and saturate the CATS, mufflers, etc. How fast can this happen? Depends on how you drive the car. More racing and fast driving will give you more blowby.

This all may have answered your question..at some point I hope ;-)

Also - keep in mind - these engines normally will burn off about a 1/2 to 1 quart per oil change interval. So, after your oil change, the dipstick should show at the top of the full line, and at oil change at the bottom - this represent normal oil burn off - about 1 qt.

If you need to add oil, as you lose more than a quart within your oil change interval - like 1 qt every 1000 miles or less - it needs to go to the dealer for the consumption test.

My car started losing about 1qt per week (400-500 miles) about a month ago. I would check the level every other day, and at least once per week, I'd add 1 qt. My issue was resolved however - the Vortech had a oil seal on it's way out. Nonetheless - over that month of consumption and burn off - the entire exhaust system was toasted.

Now - just awaiting the Vortech rebuild..and then a new exhaust of course.

Rick

P.S. again...I hope this helps - or at least helps someone ;-)

 

what catch cans are available for the G coupe?
The Arc would fit, but the snorkel for the intake would need to be removed and .

Other than Arc and diy, there is greddy and another generic option?

Having an extra court of oil and higher rev line has me worried about blowby and its potential negative effects on my PE cats and ARC titan exhaust b/c they are $$$.

I want to go w/ the ARC, but must remove, the snorkel to do this, since its designed for the Z. If I retain stock "box" w/out snorkel and leave in place the nismo drop in filter and amuse titan tube, to make room for the arc, is this sacrifice of the short ram filter worth it?

ISM, your input would be appreciated. Thx!

 

well, since u seem educated on the subject how do i know how much is 1qt. of oil on the dipstick? i checked my oil at 1000 miles(now 1200+)and between the 'H' and the 'L' i would say the oil was a little higher than halfway.

 

Simple - the F - top of the line - is full. The L or low side, is 1 qt low. In the middle - is well, about a 1/2qt low. Sounds like your just about fine on your consumption.

As your car is new - it will take about 3000 miles for rings to properly seat and seal - same with valve oil seals. A little more consumption is normal for the first interval. Just keep an eye on it every other tank of gas.

Also - how often do you plan on changing your oil? I've built many an engine - and after 500 - 1000 miles - depending on the build, I always change the oil to clean out the break-in debris. I changed mine on my car after about 1500 miles. I do it religiously every 2500-3000 miles - but I beat the crap out of the car.

Rick

 

OK - so just about any catch can can fit or be made to fit the car. I used the DIY and made my own for about $20. Works great, is nice and small. I am not sure why you have to remove the snorkel on the car though. I am not familiar with every catch can out there - I had the ARC in hand though, and sent it back. Not at all worth the money.

Catch cans are to be used, on our cars at least, in-line with the PCV system - the passenger side of the car. The breather hose connects to the PCV valve on the front of the valve cover and then goes to the front of the intake. The catch can sits in-line and interrupts the flow and settles the vapor into the can and lets the cleaner air through to release crankcase pressure.

You an also add another catch can to the breather on the driver side. I hate that the breather goes directly on the air intake - as it forces the oil vapor right into the intake system. The force of air pulls the vapor right into the intake stream. There is far less vapor on that side of the engine - but nonetheless, why have ANY of you don't need to.

For ~45 - you can have both catch cans that are really easy to service.

You also mentioned having an extra quart of oil?? Explain?

Rick

Attached is a picture of the let side of my engine bay - the dark blue thing - that's the catch can - just next to the coolant overflow.

 

I dont know i have to look at the manual to see when it says to do the first oil change, i wanted to do it as soon as it was necessary or when it was best for the engine(to remove break-in debris or what not) when do you recommend i change it this first time? i'm at 1200+ now

 

ISM, thanks for your response. What you wrote up did answer my questions. Do you sell oil consumption cans? if so, can you PM a price to me. Thanks

**Edit** you answered my question as I posted this. Thanks.

 

Sooo...where do you purchase oil catch cans? local automotive store, or do you carry them?

-Jay

 

I don't sell anything - other than a few things here and there - this is all a hobby for me...look at the DIY - you can build it in about 8 minutes, install it in about 5 minutes. It takes 4X longer to go to the store and buy the $20 worth of crap to have it done.

I had my lines custom made/molded as well - just a neater custom look. Those lines would cost about $30 by themselves, with the special hose I done...I have a few friends though ;-)

BTW - if I did sell them - they would be made exactly as the picture and cost about ~$80.

Rick

 

Thanks!

 

Like I said - I did mine at 1500 - I would have done it at 750 - but I had already started product R&D and used up mileage quickly before I knew it. No harm done though.

I would change it now, wait about 3000-3500, and then switch to synthetic - like Mobile 1 5W30 for the next 30K miles or so.

 

^Thanks! im gonna see when i can make an appointment

 

One more, how do you empty the catch can? or do you just replace the "blue" receptical. thanks again.

 

BTW - Lowe's has everything you need. The catch can itself, is a compressor water catch - there are different sizes - but you only need the small one - about $13.

Get about 3FT of fuel hose and the proper brass fitting to fit the way you want it. I did 90 degree fittings, to make it clean and a more direct path - however, I suggest you look for a single 90 degree fitting, instead of multiple fittings to get the 90 degrees - less chance of oil leaks and it looks so much better and takes less space.

Take the guts out of the water catch filter, so you just have the blue top and clear plastic screw in can left. Get a small tube of strong epoxy - close the drain tap at the bottom of the can and fill the hole with the epoxy - really well, and seal it off. It will leak otherwise.

Place your fittings and cut hose to length for desires location, install hoses and your done. total prep time before install - less than 10 minutes. Actual install, maybe 10 minutes - shopping and finding what you need - endless!! ;-)

Empty the can when it get 1/2 to 3/4 full by simply unscrewing the plastic can. Be careful not to lose the o-ring that seals it though.

I have also added a pinch - about 2" x 2" piece of stainless steel mesh (sink scrubbing pad) without soap etc..just the mesh pad. You get 2 in a pack - costs about $1.39 - it's stainless steel and looks chrome in finish. Install in the can, it will fill it up about 1/2 way. Do NOT pack it in - should fit nice an loose. This creates a filter to a degree. It allows the vapor to cling to something, thereby catching more oil. Be careful to shake out small pieces when you cut the mesh - small bits of metal like that can get sucked into the intake - that would be bad.

Rick