Amsoil Drop in filter question...
#1
04-13-2009, 08:07 AM
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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Amsoil Drop in filter question...
So i recently aquired an Amsoil OEM drop in filter and i'm curious your thoughts on this VS. K&N drop in. I see alot more Amsoil filter users on Driver as compared to My350. So i figured you guys would have more input.
I use Amsoil products, so i'd like to think they produce a high flowing quality air filter as well. But honestly i still have my K&N in there because mentally i "feel" like it flows better. lol But i've drove areound with both and can't tell a difference.
I like the non oil media of the Amsoil, and i'm thinking it probably filters better.
Comments etc.??
I use Amsoil products, so i'd like to think they produce a high flowing quality air filter as well. But honestly i still have my K&N in there because mentally i "feel" like it flows better. lol But i've drove areound with both and can't tell a difference.
I like the non oil media of the Amsoil, and i'm thinking it probably filters better.
Comments etc.??
#2
04-13-2009, 08:20 AM
I agree... I've used both... i prefer the AMSOIL.. no messy re-oiling when cleaning filter.. and I think i does a better job filtering.. and oil residue doesn't get sucked up into the MAF if you over oil by mistake.
I think it breathes better, but only by the throttle response.. have no tech stuff to compare.
I think it breathes better, but only by the throttle response.. have no tech stuff to compare.
#3
04-13-2009, 09:17 AM
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I agree... I've used both... i prefer the AMSOIL.. no messy re-oiling when cleaning filter.. and I think i does a better job filtering.. and oil residue doesn't get sucked up into the MAF if you over oil by mistake.
I think it breathes better, but only by the throttle response.. have no tech stuff to compare.
I think it breathes better, but only by the throttle response.. have no tech stuff to compare.
My other question is since i'm F/I and i still use my factory air box (Stillen SC) i wonder if it flows as good as K&N with significantly higher amounts of air being moved then a N/A motor. In other words it may flow the same untill a certain point.
#4
04-14-2009, 05:05 PM
Easy use a manometer after filter to measure the pressure drop from atmosphere. If you reference* just in front of filter instead of open air you measure just the filter.
Most filters from oem to best only cause a 0.5>1.5" water column restriction
so 1/27.7 th of a single psi or 1/4 of a single percent loss at redline. The restriction may be almost unmeasurable at 4,000 rpm and especially cruise rpm [where flow is 1/10th WOT redline].
Manometers have 2 ports one for atmospheric reference and the other to be rubber hosed to measurement point.
I have dozens of manometers [Dwyer Magnehelic gauges] reading different full scale amounts depending on what I'm testing as you need 1-2 full scale for air filters and > 300 for reading plenum vacuum at idle.
Professional flow benches use 25 " water column to approximate cylinder head intake flow.
http://dwyerinstruments.dirxion.com/Main.asp
Ebay usually has some varieties for cheap
http://shop.ebay.com/items/_W0QQ_nkw...romZR40QQ_mdoZ
http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=Dwy...eter&_osacat=0
Buy round gauges or digital instruments not glass tubes filled with liquid as they a problematic in a moving vehicle which you need to hit High rpm>redline to fully test.
Careful trying to use a low range manometer on a high range source as you can suck the bellows apart destroying the meter. Don't confuse Kpa, PSI, inches of water.
How someone made measurements on WRX
http://www.stcf.net/intake/
Most filters from oem to best only cause a 0.5>1.5" water column restriction
so 1/27.7 th of a single psi or 1/4 of a single percent loss at redline. The restriction may be almost unmeasurable at 4,000 rpm and especially cruise rpm [where flow is 1/10th WOT redline].
Manometers have 2 ports one for atmospheric reference and the other to be rubber hosed to measurement point.
I have dozens of manometers [Dwyer Magnehelic gauges] reading different full scale amounts depending on what I'm testing as you need 1-2 full scale for air filters and > 300 for reading plenum vacuum at idle.
Professional flow benches use 25 " water column to approximate cylinder head intake flow.
http://dwyerinstruments.dirxion.com/Main.asp
Ebay usually has some varieties for cheap
http://shop.ebay.com/items/_W0QQ_nkw...romZR40QQ_mdoZ
http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=Dwy...eter&_osacat=0
Buy round gauges or digital instruments not glass tubes filled with liquid as they a problematic in a moving vehicle which you need to hit High rpm>redline to fully test.
Careful trying to use a low range manometer on a high range source as you can suck the bellows apart destroying the meter. Don't confuse Kpa, PSI, inches of water.
How someone made measurements on WRX
http://www.stcf.net/intake/
Last edited by Q45tech; 04-14-2009 at 05:19 PM.
#5
04-14-2009, 05:34 PM
Careful about aftermarket vs oem designs!
A good test is to measure the drop vs rpm vs speed as oem often designs system to get some minor boost from speed by precise positioning of input to filter assembly.
On my 1990 Q45 the entire system becomes transparent [zero restriction from atmosphere thru filter to MAF input above 130 mph]. A saving of almost 9 inches of water column or 9/27.7 = 0.325 psi x 6.8 % or 2.2% boost vs say 55 mph. Maybe 5 HP and 1MPH increase in top speed.
A good test is to measure the drop vs rpm vs speed as oem often designs system to get some minor boost from speed by precise positioning of input to filter assembly.
On my 1990 Q45 the entire system becomes transparent [zero restriction from atmosphere thru filter to MAF input above 130 mph]. A saving of almost 9 inches of water column or 9/27.7 = 0.325 psi x 6.8 % or 2.2% boost vs say 55 mph. Maybe 5 HP and 1MPH increase in top speed.
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