Installed: MREV2 + 5/16 copper spacer
Installed: MREV2 + 5/16 copper spacer
Vehicle: '06 6MT coupe
Time to complete: 5 hours
Noticable improvement: definite surge of power after 4k RPM
Documentation utilized:
1 - http://www.myg35mods.com/tutorials/spacer/index.html
2 - http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drive...r-dummies.html
Install comments: The 2 links above greatly enhanced Motordyne's basic documentation. Link #2 was particularly useful in pointing out snags that most people run into. Duct taping the oil fill surround, bungee cords, etc. Those of you who've done this install know what I'm talking about.
Installing the copper isolator at the throttle body was a big part of why this took me 5hrs. The 2 TB coolant hoses and clips are really NOT enjoyable to deal with.
5hrs without battery power was enough for my car to forget radio settings and what-not so I'm assuming my ECU was reset. In my opinion, the car needed a day of driving before the ECU started to properly map the new found airflow. Could just be in my head, but I really felt a difference on day 2.
Tools:
The 4 hex bolts that secure the TB were exceptionally tight and the MD doc warns you about this. I can't imagine how difficult it would have been to remove those without using a hex socket with extension to 1/2" ratchet. I had an SAE set that worked but technically these bolts were metric. Smashing a hammer against a traditional hex key might work, but I'd be leary of using that method.
The only tool I purchased specifically for this job was a Pittsburgh Tools in/lb wrench from harborfrieght. Less than $30 shipped and several ebayers appear to offer the same wrench for sale. With all the bolts that secure and seal the plenum assembly, I felt comfortable knowing that I was able to progresively tighten every bolt with mathematical precision. I wouldn't recommend using your ft/lb wrench and trying to convert to in/lbs. Some of the in/lb operations were so gentle that I could barely feel the click.
Other observations:
ISO thermal components are definitely working. Ambient temp here is around 30 F right now and my plenum measured 67 F with a Raytech minitemp gun. Measurement was performed immediately after parking from an enthusiastic drive. As others have mentioned, the plenum would normally be way too hot to touch. I'm hoping this will make a difference when summer rolls around in terms of reducing low rpm pinging that plagues revups. I can only hope.
One thing I'm slightly puzzled by is the temps I'm reading off of the TB. It always seems to be similar to the plenum temp. I would expect it to be hotter with the coolant running through the copper component. My install was performed correctly as bare copper to new gasket to TB. I was able to get my finger on one of the coolant connections and it was very hot. I can't reach the connection on the backside but I would assume that if one is hot then flow is present. Maybe my concern is unwarranted.
I purchased through a Nissan dealer on eBay using bing cashback at 10%. I believe it's currently at 8% as of today, but I think this is still the cheapest way to buy right now. Google bing cashback if you're not familiar with it. You're missing out on some crazy deals if you're not using it.
I would say that Motordyne is indead all that they're hyped up to be. This mod is of course providing modest gains but you can feel them and the heat soak prevention is impressive.
Time to complete: 5 hours
Noticable improvement: definite surge of power after 4k RPM
Documentation utilized:
1 - http://www.myg35mods.com/tutorials/spacer/index.html
2 - http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drive...r-dummies.html
Install comments: The 2 links above greatly enhanced Motordyne's basic documentation. Link #2 was particularly useful in pointing out snags that most people run into. Duct taping the oil fill surround, bungee cords, etc. Those of you who've done this install know what I'm talking about.
Installing the copper isolator at the throttle body was a big part of why this took me 5hrs. The 2 TB coolant hoses and clips are really NOT enjoyable to deal with.
5hrs without battery power was enough for my car to forget radio settings and what-not so I'm assuming my ECU was reset. In my opinion, the car needed a day of driving before the ECU started to properly map the new found airflow. Could just be in my head, but I really felt a difference on day 2.
Tools:
The 4 hex bolts that secure the TB were exceptionally tight and the MD doc warns you about this. I can't imagine how difficult it would have been to remove those without using a hex socket with extension to 1/2" ratchet. I had an SAE set that worked but technically these bolts were metric. Smashing a hammer against a traditional hex key might work, but I'd be leary of using that method.
The only tool I purchased specifically for this job was a Pittsburgh Tools in/lb wrench from harborfrieght. Less than $30 shipped and several ebayers appear to offer the same wrench for sale. With all the bolts that secure and seal the plenum assembly, I felt comfortable knowing that I was able to progresively tighten every bolt with mathematical precision. I wouldn't recommend using your ft/lb wrench and trying to convert to in/lbs. Some of the in/lb operations were so gentle that I could barely feel the click.
Other observations:
ISO thermal components are definitely working. Ambient temp here is around 30 F right now and my plenum measured 67 F with a Raytech minitemp gun. Measurement was performed immediately after parking from an enthusiastic drive. As others have mentioned, the plenum would normally be way too hot to touch. I'm hoping this will make a difference when summer rolls around in terms of reducing low rpm pinging that plagues revups. I can only hope.
One thing I'm slightly puzzled by is the temps I'm reading off of the TB. It always seems to be similar to the plenum temp. I would expect it to be hotter with the coolant running through the copper component. My install was performed correctly as bare copper to new gasket to TB. I was able to get my finger on one of the coolant connections and it was very hot. I can't reach the connection on the backside but I would assume that if one is hot then flow is present. Maybe my concern is unwarranted.
I purchased through a Nissan dealer on eBay using bing cashback at 10%. I believe it's currently at 8% as of today, but I think this is still the cheapest way to buy right now. Google bing cashback if you're not familiar with it. You're missing out on some crazy deals if you're not using it.
I would say that Motordyne is indead all that they're hyped up to be. This mod is of course providing modest gains but you can feel them and the heat soak prevention is impressive.
Now that we're well into summer, I wanted to come back and discuss hot weather performance. I've noticed that my engine doesn't poop out as badly as it used to. Typically I would notice a drastic performance gain every winter and then really feel the drop every summer. With the iso/MREV2 in place, my performance dropped slightly when the hot weather set in, but no where near as badly as it used to. Everyone already knows how good this mod is, but for those of you looking to keep winter performance in the summer, this does help.
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