Eh... my car's had a lot of dyno time when my friend was bored, just playing around with different set-ups, etc too... We just didn't keep track of everything on paper.

 

Yeah, strange, cause ignition timing is crucial to performance and pulling/retarding it supposedly decreases performance. Your ECU does that automatically for you in a variety of scenarios when the car is in the red/orange zone. But for your car, I guess when it is heat soaked or when engine temps are sky high it performs better?

Simple and to the point. Do what makes sense for you.

 

Not sure why exactly, but with the mods I had, my timing was extremely advanced. And as the timing is already advanced on revups, that just might not be a good thing running 91. But I figured I shouldn't have needed to tell you that.

 

I don't know what the situation was for your own dynos dofu. But if pulling timing resulted in more power, I suspect your ecu was pulling timing in the 1st place. But the ecu will pull it back more aggresively. If you pull your own base timing back, the result might be no timing retard from the ecu = more power.

But you didn't make more power because you are running less timing. Your timing is actually more advanced during your power run because the ecu is no longer having to pull it back to help fight detonation.

I suspect a hot day and 91 octane might be the cause.

But if you have your timing logs that say otherwise, then I could be totally wrong on all this.

 

Dofu, Alright this is going no where and let me just say one last thing since we are coming close to making this thread cluttered and useless.

You mentioned the following

And I simply mention that making my car run with less power made it more fuel efficient. God forbids that my car was already tuned for my mods and with less timing it was running with better fuel economy.

 

OK, making your motor run more efficient will make more power (better efficiency = a better a/f) while at the same time give you better fuel economy (better efficiency also = better economy). Boosted, NA, it shouldn't matter. From there is all about how you use the gas pedal. Getting up to speed faster without wasting too much gas means you can let off the gas sooner. Without as much torque, yea you might be using a bit less gas for however much you're stepping on the gas, but it's going to take longer to get up to speed, which means you'll be burning more gas doing so. There's so much more, but you're gonna have to go do the research on it yourself as I don't have the time to break it all down for you right now.

But I'm pretty sure that for safety, maybe liability reasons, the power tune on your car is running a bit rich as your motor is built, and the economy tune is detuned to run a better a/f ratio.

 

You win! Stupid dyno lied to me! I knew that econ tune was definitely more powerful, I felt it. Thanks for confirming what my butt was telling me. let me make that two Sorry I only have two hands else I'd give you more.

PS: Nice job at partially addressing all the comments directed towards you.

 

Are you referring to something like this?

Isn't that still a short ram intake that would be just as terrible as the pop charger when concerned about heat?

 

That is the one. Take a look at my install. It shows how it keeps all of the factory cold air sources, uses a large 6" cone with a velocity stack (shown in your link) and it's sealed off from all the engine heat. I don't have the oem powerduct installed here though

 

Wow looks great thanks for the info. How's the sound on this intake, and have you noticed any power gains at lower RPM's at all?

Also, would you recommend getting the stillen branded ztube with this?

 

I've run oem + k&n panel, Stillen, Rev up oem + k&n panel.

There's not really much difference inbetween them. But I feel an ever so slight low end diff with the rev up oem vs non rev up oem. rev ups have a bigger velocity stack.

I'd still be running the Stillen (still have it) but I didn't like the k&n filter element. I'm not sure what to do about a replacement cone element yet.

Z tube vs oem tube. Really, this is truely just a noise maker. And to a degree so are intakes.

I get PLENTY of noise from my modded Borla true dual and my Crawford plenum(not pictured). So for now, I'm on the rev up oem airbox, oem G35 tube

 

Ahh okay thanks for the advice. If I buy the revup oem airbox can I just install it as is, or is there anything special that needs to be done?

 

as is.

 

Well check this - lean out your power tune a bit more for a better a/f ratio and you'll get more power with better economy too. But I bet your tuner isn't willing to do so because it actually risks possibly blowing your motor. FYI, "rich" basically means running more fuel than necessary... run too rich and you don't make good power either, if you can even get combustion if you can run rich enough. Hmm... I wonder what happens somewhere in between.

Wow... just thought of something... can we get any more off topic???

 

You can just buy the rev up part of the airbox. This is a plug and play
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OEM-I...item2a058b030e

This is a sale for a 350Z airbox. (which the airboxes are NOT swappable) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350z-...item27b15e4aa4

But the PICTURE they use ARE G35 airboxes. Which shows the non-rev (LEFT) and the revup (RIGHT). You can see that the one on the right matches the 1st ebay auction.