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high idle/rpm problem after t.b. clean..??

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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 12:31 AM
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high idle/rpm problem after t.b. clean..??

hey guys., Need some help ASAP.
I got a 2005 g35x(sedan). It has a stilen z-tube with k&n cone filter.
I have the code P0507( Large vacum leak, Faulty throottle control actuator, or throttle body damage).
So I decided to clean my throttle body, and recharge my k&n cone filter.
While I was taking apart my intake, I noticed that the intake coupler that connects the z-tube with the maf was cut(the rubber connector with the 4round bulges). It had a huge hole.

I replaced the intake coupler, cleaned the T.B. and recharged my k&n filter.
I also cleared my ecu by the pedal method.
But im not sure if i did this correctly;
Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning,
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning, Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning).
Is there a way to find out if the process was done right?

Now my rpm is crazy!
On N or P the rpm would bounce from 1200, to 1500, to 2000 in sequence order and timing is the same. On Drive it would idle at 1000.
Something is wrong! what could be wrong?

My CEL is on.
Is there a way i could lower the idle rpm setting manualy?
any help would be great. thanks.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 02:08 AM
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Is the MAF plugged back in?

If everything connected right, the 3 step pedal reset should get you running right. I install TONS of throttle bodies and about 25% of them have the same issue as you after the install.

For the reset to work properly, your timing has to be perfect. Keep trying and once you hit it right, the change will be instant.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 09:00 PM
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Yes, the MAF is connected. I think im going to clean the MAF with the MAF cleaner they sell.

The 3 step pedal reset process you are talking about is the;
1. Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning,
2. Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning,
3. Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)???

Im really confused on this part. Does these 3 steps have to be done in sequence order back to back?

I should also reset the ecu before these 3steps.?

thanks.
 

Last edited by jin22gt; Dec 2, 2011 at 10:21 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 12:32 AM
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UPDATE:
Finally got the 3step pedal process to work!!!!!!!
It took me around 2hours to get the timing perfect. I was about to give up and bring my car to the dealership, glad I didnt give up!

The ecu restart seems to be the hardest to do.
Also the Idle air volume learning seems to be a little tricky, but as soon as I got this process done correctly the rpm drops to normal idle.

Now the car seems to run perfect with normal idle with no crazy rpm bounce!
 
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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Just started to have a problem similar to this. The SES light has been coming on randomly in the past 2 weeks showing P0507. The MAF and TB were not touched/disconnected in many months and the RPM's don't fluctuate but it does idle around 1,200-1,300.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 11:41 AM
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Actually contrary to popular belief the Throttle Bodies on the G35 are very strong and durable....I had the same problem on my 2007 infiniti G35s where the Throttle Bodies were cleaned and after the residue was removed it would idle high and would not go below 1,500 RPM, and would sometimes stay at 2,000.

Opening the valve does absolutely no harm, and there is no need to be gentle, I am a technician and have taken them apart, and in doing so one can find that they are driven my a very powerful motor and the gears that turn the valve are made of thick metal and look like they could drive a transfer case.

However to answer the problem of high Idling after cleaning the TB's here is what I do......

On the "Intake" side of the TB on the top there is an adjustment screw, this will adjust the idle position of the intake valve. After it is clean the computer sets the valve to be too far open when idling, and will stay this way even when the junk is gone, allowing too much air to pass through. Adjust the screw so that you can just move the valve a tiny bit when you push it with your hand, so that it is nearly "Sealed"
Do exactly the same to the other side and put it all back together.

After this turn the ignition on once, turn if off, and then start it and your done. It will now idle much lower if you did it correctly, and if it is still a bit too high re-preform the procedure and close it a little more.

Hope this helped people who had the same problem I did a while ago, just wanted to let you all know that there is no point in wasting money on new TB's, as there i nothing wrong with the ones that were taken out, they are merely out of adjustment.

Good Luck,
 
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