So i just installed the MR Long Tube Race headers on my 2003 G35 Sedan.

The fitment issue is on the Drivers side, the header tube is touching where the steering column rod bolts to the steering rack. I have attempted to make adjustments to the brackets that move side to side bolting to the bracket on the transmission. I cant get this thing to clear for nothing...

Has anyone installed these and had this same issue?

 

If these are as great as their shorty headers for these cars, the fitment is just the first issue you'll run into.

 

thanks for your input, but i just need anyone that has installed these or knows the deal with this specific fitment issue...

 

While seaching, i actually found this off the MR site.

*Fitment note: The driver side header has limited clearance between it and the steering rod/column. Typically if engine mounts have lost their efficiency, it will allow more engine movement than normal and create contact on fully loaded cornering. This issue was unable to be resolved without either 1) denting in the piping to gain clearance or 2) reduce piping diameter to make clearance, however we found the OEM runner size to be the only size that would fit for our design without contacting the steering rod/column.

So are they saying they made the long tubes with OEM runner size and there should not be any issues? Or are my mounts worn out and it allowing to much movement?

 

The easiest way to install headers on this car is to pull the motor. But if you are going to pull the motor to install some headers, make sure you aren't installing headers that have a tendency to consistently crack at the welds, like Megan's shorty headers.

 

The welds on these headers actually look really good, & the headers were installed while the engine was out, the issue is the tube actually touching on the steering rod/rack bolt up coupler. I m going to look at again 2mrw & see if i can loosen the engine mounts, and see if there is any room to possibly adjust them & loosen the header brackets from the transmount bracket and see if there is a way to slot the header mount bracket to allow it to be adjustable and be able to move it side to side & then bolt it up...I only need about 1/8th of inch for this to clear...

 

Either try to get newer mounts and hope that work. Grind down the steer knuckle a little bit. Or send the header back and get another one and hope that it is better.

The problem is the jig these china made headers are made from. The jig is off! All china made headers have problems on the driver side. I installed 370Z stock headers and they clear everything fine.

 

Its resolved, not how i thought it would be but i had to adjust the driver side header bracket and slot it to make it adjustable, i also fabbed up a small metal square plate the same size as the tranmission mounting bracket ( thanks to a plasma cutter) & used a drill press to drill the proper size hole in it, then attached the header bracket, mounting plate and attached to the trans bracket. Plus i still had to heat up the header & bend the tubing in a very small area, after all the total BS the steering rod doesnt hit the header. But bc it was binding up so bad before, it F'd up my outer tie rod ends & is not making a knocking noise when turning hard left & hard right. So now that's on the list to be fixed....

I have a MR Ypipe and had not issues from it, so i thought i would try the MR Race Headers plus i got them for wholesale cost. But my advice to anyone that has a G35-350z don't buy these long tubes unless you are ready & capible of these mods above. This is what i get for being cheap, I normally buy more high end parts, but i said hey how bad can they be..Well as they all say, you get what you pay for!!! I have learned my lesson of buying cheaply made parts & I will never do it again!

 

That is the problem with headers for the G35. A nice set of headers that fit and perform cost a lot of money HP/$. I installed a set of used 370z headers because they fit fine and provided gains for cheap. How much gain? Not sure. Engine definitely has more mid range and there car doesn't fall on its face as bad from 6500rpm and up.

 

I don't see how fitment would be different since most knock-off parts like Megan Racing are usually duplicates of more expensive ones.

Don't get me wrong, Megans worked great on My EP Civic, they just had a lot of issues with cracking on this car. Good luck with your MR long tube headers.

 

They duplicate them using a jig. The first jig was setup for a JDM car with the steering wheel and rod on the right side of the car. Took them a while to see this would not work on USDM cars. Hold china headers up to some good ones like Momentum and u will see the flanges on the china brands are off.

 

^ +1 your exactly right!