I need to replace my exhaust and my cats...so I'm going aftermarket... One problem I have been running into is reading opposing viewpoints on the same issue where both parties seem to logically or scientifically backup what they are saying and have it make sense and I don't know enough to conclude who's right or wrong.

A Lot Wrong with my car
My G is a 2003 6mt, i'm the original owner, and regardless of how long this username says I have been a member here...I have been here since the beginning but lost my original username...anyway, my G is a warrior but it has a lot wrong with it, foggy headlight, cd player error, causes cd player to not work, need to replace my shifter, it makes a horrible rattle, passenger window won’t roll down, passenger lock won’t lock, chatter from flywheel, My A/C keeps shorting out and it makes the volume uncontrollable and I am unable to use the defroster and the piece to fix it costs 1300---A real dealership special. Also had my steering rack assembly replaced recently which was like 800. And new tires and mount and balance was like 1200, so i'm getting killed here, but anyway...

When it comes to an exhaust, this is what I learned:
Everyone has very different opinions on what sounds good to them, that's why asking for advice on exhaust beyond what makes the most power or what has good build quality doesn't really make any sense. It’s all about what you like.

That being said, here is my exhaust question:
I cannot spend 1400, 1500, on just an exhaust. I also don’t want to be a cheapskate and get something with inferior build quality. Can anyone point me in the right direction here?
What are the communities thoughts on buying used exhausts? What is the best case scenario brand exhaust I am really looking at here?

Cats and Test Pipes Questions:
I really am not looking to start an intellectual or mechanical debate, so I really hope two people with engineering degrees don’t chime in with phenomenal opposing arguments, but here goes:

True or false?

“Regular test pipes always result in a large loss of low end torque.”

-----------------Would high flow cats also result in a large loss of low end torque?

Test pipes are cheaper than HFC and produce more power gains than HFC.

Test pipes are raspy. They could make your car smell bad. They often make you not pass emissions.

HFC are more expensive but keeps your car at the legal limits on everything.



How much are we looking at for installation of exhaust system and new cats/test pipes? Ballpark numbers...

Keeping in mind price is a factor, keeping in mind that I don't want something with product quality issues, there are so many brands and manufacturers of exhausts and cats and test pipes, and there are so many varying opinions on what is good and what isn’t, and it’s a little overwhelming for someone with serious attention deficit disorder. If anyone could be so kind as to offer up some recommendations, especially concerning what products the online community generally trusts and has confidence in, that would be great.


Thank you all for your time.

 

Nothing wrong with finding a used exhaust to save some cash. You may want to replace all the gaskets, nuts & bolts just to avoid any issues. Some of the better made brands are Fast Intentions, Motordyne, maybe Invidia.

I don't know about the loss of low end torque thing.

The difference between test pipes and HFC are this: test pipes are simply a strait pipe put in place of (thus eliminating) your cats. This is why they're cheap. They cause smells and possible emissions issues due to the fact that there is not longer a catalytic converter on the car. They produce more gains because there is less resistance in the exhaust path.

HFC are still a catalytic converter, but are designed for a higher flow rate. There's still some resistance in the exhaust path, but better than the highly restrictive OEM cats.


I personally have AAM HFCs and a Fast Intentions exhaust. Both very well made and I expect them to last.

 

Interesting questions! Is there something wrong with your current exhaust system? Rather than spending $$ on items you don't need I suggest having all those things that are wrong with your coupe fixed. Finding an independent Nissan trained mechanic would be a plus, no one needs to pay Stealership prices! Nissan is 30% cheaper than Infiniti if you can't find an independent shop. I've sold 4 exhaust systems to members. Test pipes are trash so I suggest Fast Intentions HFCs if they're legal in New York. Comrade Bloomberg is a waste of skin & bone, at least we have a choice of what we eat and the size in SoCal....Gary

 

Thanks for the responses.

Yea, my current exhaust system is on its last legs, and my cats are causing the most annoyingly horribly irritating rattle i've ever heard in my life.

Anyone think they know the answer to this one?

-----------------Would high flow cats also result in a large loss of low end torque?

 

And what about Resonated Test Pipes as opposed to High Flow Cats, what is the general consensus on which is more beneficial.

 

If you're looking at saving money my first suggestion would be to buy a used stock exhaust system off a member that has upgraded his. If you're looking to get a decent quality part, you're going to be spending decent quality money. Sometimes you get lucky in the marketplace but I imagine the basement of good deals on good parts will be around the 800 dollar range prior to install. Then you've got potential fittiment issues... compatibility issues between HFC / TP and exhaust- (if not purchased together) etc etc.

With a stock exhaust- you know it's going to fit, and you know that the sound is going to be that signature VQ growl that everyone loves.

I can't speak specifically for what it costs to swap in an exhaust as much as to say that it takes a couple of hours to take the old one out, prep the new one with new gaskets etc and hang it. 200 bucks for install... maybe 3 if they leak check it and need to make adjustments? I don't know either but it's not cost prohibitive and most guys charging money for services should be able to do it pretty quickly.

I don't agree with the whole TPs are trash analogy- they have their place and resonated TPs do help dampen the "rasp" that is practically inevitable with NA platforms. They do add to the exhaust "smell" but I know when I moved over to the resonated pipes I was expecting this harsh aroma that would burn out my nose hairs and make me forget how to do math. While noticeable, it just ain't that bad.

They're also roughly half (or less) the cost of HFCs. However the part of Gary's comments that I do agree with is that on the NA platforms, HFC like ceramic coated Berks or as he says fast intentions are the top shelf items. Berk is the only one I've heard consistently eliminates rasp- but they are expensive compared to TPs or used stock cats.

One of the unshakeable realities of this platform is that there are very few things that you can do to tangibly increase HP / TQ without spending an amount of money that I'm not sure you're prepared to part with at this time- so "upgrading" your exhaust at this point may be an unnecessary expense. Putting on any breather mods in or outbound without a tune to help the ECU feed the new requirements will result in all sorts of errant behavior with drops in HP / TQ occurring in a variety of areas throughout the power band.

At least if you stick with the stock exhaust- possibly bought off the marketplace- for uber cheap you can save money and get the rest of your car fixed up first. The additional benefit is you can be better assured that problems you're having now or in the future aren't exhaust related.

As for the rattle (I'm reading that now)- there's a chance it could just be a loose or broken bracket. Or the core is damaged and you have something trapped in there- but any time I've had "rattle" it was because a bracket had broken and the part was banging against something.

 

Well said

 

"Putting on any breather mods in or outbound without a tune to help the ECU feed the new requirements will result in all sorts of errant behavior with drops in HP / TQ occurring in a variety of areas throughout the power band. "

Are you sure about that?? So adding intake or exhaust or....plenum spacer? Will all result in that behavior?

How much is a "tune" and what kind of place would I need to go to for that?

 

I can spend roughly 900-1000 on exhaust, and 350ish on replacing the cats or test pipes. So installation for such parts would be 200-300 bucks? Roughly?

And I am leaning toward Borla for the exhaust. I am really lost on what to do with the HFC or Test Pipes, just don't know what route to go there..

 

My stock exhaust system is rusted out, so that's why I need to replace it, one of my other concerns is a loss of low end torque due to any of these modifications, what do you think?

 

There are a few cars here listed in the marketplace that are parts cars, I almost guarantee you could get a full exhaust for half the price of anything you are looking into. It wont be that much to replace also. And if you buy a whole exhaust it could possilbly include a working cat... a tune is out of your price range. It is an "update" to your ECU that allows for better performance and efficiency. But our cars are well tuned from factory with stock parts. It costs a minimum 450$ for a stock increase of 9-15 hp depending on the dyno.

You don't need to be upgrading performance at this time Ghost, your windows won't even roll down... You will only lose money on performance modifications. An aftermarket exhaust has a CUSTOM install, which also costs more money. Just buy oem and search the forum for parts cars that will get you what you need. It sounds like you need a passenger side window motor regulator and door lock actuator by the way .

Quote:
Nothing wrong with finding a used exhaust to save some cash

Quote:
If you're looking at saving money my first suggestion would be to buy a used stock exhaust system off a member that has upgraded his. If you're looking to get a decent quality part, you're going to be spending decent quality money. Sometimes you get lucky in the marketplace but I imagine the basement of good deals on good parts will be around the 800 dollar range prior to install. Then you've got potential fittiment issues... compatibility issues between HFC / TP and exhaust- (if not purchased together) etc etc