Just z tube for rev up engine?
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From: Philadelphia, PA
Update on the R2C. It seems that they are a dying breed, I hit up Import Parts Pro on here to ask if they still offer them and Kyle said no. Poor customer service and huge backorders are the reasons he cited for their decision. Sigh, another one bites the dust.
And phil, that's a Wix filter and yes, it's a good one.
And phil, that's a Wix filter and yes, it's a good one.
So Stillen z-tube + the air filter I linked and I should be good for n/a intake mods.
Having done extensive research over the years and real world testing on my G I can offer my opinions on this long discussed/debated topic.
1. Any intake with an open filter WILL lose power, tuned or not. It's true that they suck in just hot air which we all know kills power. Engines love cold, dense air which is why I love to drive in winter. This is true with the car moving or stationary, yes while the car's moving the super hot air in the engine bay is somewhat dissipated but it's still being sucked in by the intake. The only open filter intake dyno proven to make any significant gain that I know of is the Furookie paired with a NWP 75mm TB and tuned. Mind you though, this is achieved sitting still on a dyno with the hood open and a big azz fan blowing air into the motor. I don't include the Stillen or R2C in this category because they both do a better job of having adequate shielding to keep hot air out. I love my R2C because it seals against the hood. However I run the 350Z version, the G35 version has a cut out on the left side for the snorkel that sits on the top of the radiator to fit in. I installed my catch can there and the 350Z version has both sides that extend to the core support. Also the R2C has IMHO the best filters on the market, they also make all air filters for government vehicles and have been proven reliable and efficient all over the world. My filter is washable and not oiled so that eliminates the potential of oil contaminating the MAF like the Stillen.
2. However unless you are tuned and have other supporting breather mods; HFC's, plenum spacer, exhaust etc. intakes really only produce more sound which is sexy but not enough of a power gain to really feel. They also give a cool look to the bay but IMHO not worth the money spent. However that's a personal choice, ymmv.
3. For low mod cars a stock airbox (revup if you can find one) with a quality drop in filter and a Z tube is your best choice for a compromise between power gain, sound and look.
Know too that this is a hotly debated topic on here and everyone has their opinions, but mine are rooted in facts and experience so take what you may from my feedback. Also I just searched for 20 minutes for either a G35 or 350Z R2C system for sale and came up with nothing. The R2C website still lists the G35 version but nothing about it's availability and the 350Z is listed as out of stock, very sad.
1. Any intake with an open filter WILL lose power, tuned or not. It's true that they suck in just hot air which we all know kills power. Engines love cold, dense air which is why I love to drive in winter. This is true with the car moving or stationary, yes while the car's moving the super hot air in the engine bay is somewhat dissipated but it's still being sucked in by the intake. The only open filter intake dyno proven to make any significant gain that I know of is the Furookie paired with a NWP 75mm TB and tuned. Mind you though, this is achieved sitting still on a dyno with the hood open and a big azz fan blowing air into the motor. I don't include the Stillen or R2C in this category because they both do a better job of having adequate shielding to keep hot air out. I love my R2C because it seals against the hood. However I run the 350Z version, the G35 version has a cut out on the left side for the snorkel that sits on the top of the radiator to fit in. I installed my catch can there and the 350Z version has both sides that extend to the core support. Also the R2C has IMHO the best filters on the market, they also make all air filters for government vehicles and have been proven reliable and efficient all over the world. My filter is washable and not oiled so that eliminates the potential of oil contaminating the MAF like the Stillen.
2. However unless you are tuned and have other supporting breather mods; HFC's, plenum spacer, exhaust etc. intakes really only produce more sound which is sexy but not enough of a power gain to really feel. They also give a cool look to the bay but IMHO not worth the money spent. However that's a personal choice, ymmv.
3. For low mod cars a stock airbox (revup if you can find one) with a quality drop in filter and a Z tube is your best choice for a compromise between power gain, sound and look.
Know too that this is a hotly debated topic on here and everyone has their opinions, but mine are rooted in facts and experience so take what you may from my feedback. Also I just searched for 20 minutes for either a G35 or 350Z R2C system for sale and came up with nothing. The R2C website still lists the G35 version but nothing about it's availability and the 350Z is listed as out of stock, very sad.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
Likes: 1,488
From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
Well I guess after 9 years of ownership I can still learn more about the G. Because the Stillen advertised it uses a K&N filter I assumed it was oiled. Shiver me timbers, I'm wrong.....it's a dry filter that's washable and reusable, Stillen claims it'll last up to a million miles. 
https://www.stillen.com/catalog/prod...category/1149/
Sorry to be posting false info, I might need to flame myself lol.
https://www.stillen.com/catalog/prod...category/1149/
Sorry to be posting false info, I might need to flame myself lol.
Noob!
I'd recommend not heat wrapping a pipe as it increases temperatures, but recommend actually putting up a heat damping wall like between the clutch/brake MC and the engine.
I'd recommend not heat wrapping a pipe as it increases temperatures, but recommend actually putting up a heat damping wall like between the clutch/brake MC and the engine.
Yea it's going to be daily driven in the philly area heat, and my daily commute definitely features some slow moving traffic time when there's not much airflow. So it sounds like it's not worth it to change up the actual intake, just make get a stillen or 350z z-tube, and a high flow filter. I'm not good with fabbing so I'll stick to pre-made stuff I think.
Is this the amsoil you're referring to?
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...?code=46116-EA
Is this the amsoil you're referring to?
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...?code=46116-EA
Gary
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
Likes: 1,488
From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
If you've only installed an intake the car won't need a tune but will run slightly leaner which the ECU can compensate for. It's when you add intake, plenum spacer, test pipes/HFCs and an exhaust that most of us would recommend you getting tuned. It really leans the engine out at that point, plus a tune has a ton of benefits other than resetting A/F ratios.
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From: Philadelphia, PA
Yea that's why I had to specify "immediate". I'm just trying to decide what order to get stuff in. I guess HFCs should be last because those are one of the most restrictive parts of the system and could have a huge impact.
You're on the right track for mods, z-tube/high flow filter then the Motordyne 5/16" spacer/copper! That will give you a little WHP you'll be able to feel, make sure you use a torque wrench and follow the instructions 100%. Keep an eye on that rubber gizmo around your oil filler, you don't want it obstructing your upper plenum when doing the reinstalling! Exhaust system then the HFC in that order, then you're ready for a tune...your dash may tell you when it's time with an error code! (mine did)
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