Intake & Exhaust Questions and info regarding various aftermatket exhaust systems for the G35 (Headers,Y-Pipes, and Cat-Back Systems)

Catch can hose size question?? Pls help

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Old 07-18-2019, 10:48 PM
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Catch can hose size question?? Pls help

Soooooooo. I thought I did all my research on exactly what I needed and how to do make my oil catch can how I wanted for my 2003 G35 Coupe. Well, I had measured my plenum bung and converted the 3/8" hose ID to the AN fitting sizes I would need. Got whole system layout designed and all parts and stainless hose and all AN fittings ordered and in. But...........I was on Z1Motorsports getting some other parts the other night and came across their PCV adaptor and noticed it is to 8AN. Then I looked at everyone elses and noticed theirs are all adapted to 8AN. So, I have all 6AN fittings and pieces. I know this may be over cautious, or trivial even; but even still wanna ask the educated peers on here their thoughts. Will I be ok to proceed with what I've bought in all 6AN? Or should I reorder in all 8AN? Don't want any issues once I get this motor back together.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
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Old 07-19-2019, 11:50 PM
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I can only tell you I've been running 3/8" Gates Safety Stripe CS101206 line since 2006 with 2 different catch cans without issues! Why would you consider bringing attention to hose lines using stainless steel, the idea is make it disappear...Gary
 

Last edited by gary c; 07-19-2019 at 11:55 PM.
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Old 07-20-2019, 10:02 AM
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It'll be fine, it's just a small volume of air passing through the hose.

I wouldn't have deleted the PCV check valve though unless you're doing a 100% atmospheric system. If you ARE doing a fully atmospheric system then you're definitely fine with -6AN since there's very little flow.
 
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Old 07-20-2019, 11:40 PM
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Lol. I mistakenly put stainless braided, because I spent so much time running down all parts and set up for oil cooler and trans cooler hoses. I did black braided nylon hoses for oil catch can and all under the hood seen from above. So yeah, you right Gary. Keen eye.

Guess I still had stainless on the brain. Forgive me, I was working nights that night and was already drained.
 
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Old 07-20-2019, 11:58 PM
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Cleric

Not sure of the benefit either side of that. 100% atmospheric versus leaving the pvc valve in place; both with the catch can. Please elaborate if you have further insight.

My planned layout was as follows:

1. From passenger side valve cover PVC location to a tee, other side of tee from rear output of driver side valve cover, from tee both to catch can input.
2. From catch can output to a tee, tee to upper plenum front at passenger side (PCV hose bung at plenum), other side of tee to the intake piping bung (barb on z-pipe location)

I have the EVO-R carbon Fiber Intake piping, with JWT pop-charger; and a Mishimoto baffled vented oil catch can. Went with all 6AN black and red anodized compression fittings and black nylon braided hose. Red anodized AN hose clamp covers for all barbed locations. Have the Motordyne plenum spacer and ISO thermal gasket to install. Am staying N/A for now (plan is to get all this on car and back on the road and daily driving; once that is done and have full exhaust installed get UpRev and tuned. Then start gathering parts for the 2JZ swap that I plan on doing in a year or so,), but while I have motor apart I have gone ahead and cleaned up my heads, ported and polished plenum, intake, and intake and exhaust runners on my heads. Have stainless wrapped headers and Motordyne ART pipes with Innovate LC-2 Wideband with gauge. Will be getting the Motordyne Shockwave TDX-2 exhaust soon as I have motor back together and ready to drop back into car. Plan on purchasing upgrade to 75mm TB also, so wanted my flow to be as effortless as possible. Have Stage 2 clutch and Chromoly lightened flywheel ready to install also when goes back into car. 2003 coupe 6mt. This engine will likely get swapped into my sons 1997 D21 hardbody when I get my 2J swapped in. That's why I'm going ahead and doing all the gaskets, seals, water pump, oil pump, entire timing system, and new exhaust valves.

Any please offer insight if any flaws in this catch can set up are foreseen. My goal was to simplify the oil catch can setup as much as possible, and catch all sources of grimy oil vapors thru catch can before entering back into intake and plenum. Any reason necessary to have to separate the passenger side PVC hose to plenum system; and the drivers side intake piping to valve cover hose system. My thoughts were no, being that the valve cover crossover hose joins the two together anyways!! Is there any absolute need to run separate oil catch cans?? my research showed people have seen setups that are pcv or intake piping and arguments/opinions of one over the other. Way I looked at it both are sending oily vapors back into the intake.

Any further educated guidance much appreciated if I need to be corrected.
 

Last edited by JoeMag; 07-21-2019 at 12:12 AM.
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Old 07-21-2019, 12:55 PM
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Atmospheric you won't get ANY of the oil vapor into the intake, and since it's a passive flow system you end up with a lot less overall oil coming out into the catch can. However you WILL end up with a lot more grime in the engine bay after the catch can filter because the oil will make it's way out atmospherically.

Traditional PCV system is an active system, air is constantly being sucked through the valve covers up into the intake manifold due to engine vacuum. The increased airflow draws a LOT more oil into the intake, even with a catch can, however this setup is the only emissions legal option.

If you're going with an atmospheric pcv delete just plug the feed from the intake pipe and the inlet on the intake plenum, add a new hose to the driver valve cover and route it behind the engine and around to the PCV valve on the passenger side. Delete the PCV valve with a -AN fitting, tee the two valve covers together to a single line that runs to the catch can inlet, run the catch can outlet to a filter or simply add a filter right onto the outlet if you have room (it's tight if you're mounting it on the right side wheel well where most folks put it so it's usually better to flex out to a filter.

Then just leave the balancer tube on the front of the engine connecting the two VC's together, yeah there will be parallel tubes conecting the VC's together at the front and rear, it's fine.

If you have a double inlet single outlet catch can then you can run the left side VC tube and the PCV deleted tube out to the catch can separately. I prefer a single line just so there's less hoses to dress into place.
 
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Old 07-21-2019, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeMag
Lol. I mistakenly put stainless braided, because I spent so much time running down all parts and set up for oil cooler and trans cooler hoses. I did black braided nylon hoses for oil catch can and all under the hood seen from above. So yeah, you right Gary. Keen eye.
Guess I still had stainless on the brain. Forgive me, I was working nights that night and was already drained.
Joe, installing a catch can the right way is so easy a Liberal could do it, search "Catch can install!" It's not complicated and any 3/8" high pressure hose will get the job done!
Gary
 
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