Replacing the air filter
Replacing the air filter
I've seen various DIY instructions to replacing the air filter, but I would like to know how YOU do it. Since the air filter is a little bit on the tight side, I usually unbolt the duct so as to get a hold of the entire unit (and subsequently perform the unclipping process). Just wondering if there was an easier way.
For Toyotas it's pretty easy since you don't even have to unbolt anything (since there's enough room to manipulate the air filter between the unclipped halves).
For Toyotas it's pretty easy since you don't even have to unbolt anything (since there's enough room to manipulate the air filter between the unclipped halves).
Would of been nice to of gotten a response here.
I just went to attempt to change my air filter on my
G35 now that it has 10K miles on it.
Unbuckled the 4 snaps and unscrewed that one screw that
holds it to the wheel well.
What a PITA this car is JUST to change the AIR FILTER.
There's got to be an easier way....right?
I just went to attempt to change my air filter on my
G35 now that it has 10K miles on it.
Unbuckled the 4 snaps and unscrewed that one screw that
holds it to the wheel well.
What a PITA this car is JUST to change the AIR FILTER.
There's got to be an easier way....right?
I replaced mine and it didn't require any bolts to be removed. I just unsnapped the clips on the airbox and pulled back on the rear half of the box that mounts to the G-Tube or Z-Tube, which allowed enough room for me to slide the old filter out and the new one in.
The plastic tube and the rear half of the intake box has enough give in it to allow you to relatively easily slide the old filter out through the opening and also to replace it through the same opening.
Sure it's not as easy as Toyotas are(my Tacoma is a breeze), but still not too hard.
The thing that kills me is that you have to remove 20 screws to take off the damn engine under-cover when doing an oil change, unless you have access to a vehicle lift.
Oh, and also the oil dipstick is horribly designed. heh.
The plastic tube and the rear half of the intake box has enough give in it to allow you to relatively easily slide the old filter out through the opening and also to replace it through the same opening.
Sure it's not as easy as Toyotas are(my Tacoma is a breeze), but still not too hard.
The thing that kills me is that you have to remove 20 screws to take off the damn engine under-cover when doing an oil change, unless you have access to a vehicle lift.
Oh, and also the oil dipstick is horribly designed. heh.
I'd have to agree this is a serious pain. I tried last night to install the K&N filer on my 06 figuring it was as simple as replacing the filter in my Jeep. Boy was I wrong. After 20 minutes of fiddling I couldn't get the filter to slip out, even called my wife out thinking this must be a 2 person job. I think today I will try removing the bolt that holds it to the wheel well and see if I can get a little more room to work with
It is a PITA... but it can be done. You can manage to slip it in there by only undoing the clips and the stabilizing bolt, but it is a tight fit. The other option is to take out your intake tube and that gives you plenty of play with the air box. This is a bit more work, but is the right way to do it. I asked the mechanics at Infiniti if there was an easier way, and they said nope. They prefer to change out air filters when there is other work to be done because it is such a PITA.
Originally Posted by partyman66
I replaced mine and it didn't require any bolts to be removed. I just unsnapped the clips on the airbox and pulled back on the rear half of the box that mounts to the G-Tube or Z-Tube, which allowed enough room for me to slide the old filter out and the new one in.
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Well, after figuring out the best and easiest way (for me) was to
as I stated, remove the bolt that attaches to the wheel well,
then remove the one clip that holds the long skinny part of the
plastic "power duct" to the front grille assembly you can separate
this long skinny part of the "power duct" from the fish mouth part of
the "power duct" on the intake.
Swing the skinny part up and out of the way.
Then removing the 4 retaining clips allows you enough room to push back
the intake part that's connected to the G or Z tube and slide the
stock air filter out.
The good news is when installing a K&N Air Filter, it's skinnier than the stock
paper air filter so it goes in a bit easier.
Then you can clamp the retaining clips back together
Insert the long skinny part of the power duct back into the intake part of the power duct. Snap the plastic clip back down into the hole in the top part of the grille.
At the bottom of the "power duct" part that holds the air filter there is
a 1 round tube that needs to be aligned back up with the power duct
part in order to put the intake back into place.
Finally align the stabilizing screw back up to the hole in the wheel well and
screw it down.
Done.
By FAR the hardest car to change an air filter I've EVER come across.
as I stated, remove the bolt that attaches to the wheel well,
then remove the one clip that holds the long skinny part of the
plastic "power duct" to the front grille assembly you can separate
this long skinny part of the "power duct" from the fish mouth part of
the "power duct" on the intake.
Swing the skinny part up and out of the way.
Then removing the 4 retaining clips allows you enough room to push back
the intake part that's connected to the G or Z tube and slide the
stock air filter out.
The good news is when installing a K&N Air Filter, it's skinnier than the stock
paper air filter so it goes in a bit easier.
Then you can clamp the retaining clips back together
Insert the long skinny part of the power duct back into the intake part of the power duct. Snap the plastic clip back down into the hole in the top part of the grille.
At the bottom of the "power duct" part that holds the air filter there is
a 1 round tube that needs to be aligned back up with the power duct
part in order to put the intake back into place.
Finally align the stabilizing screw back up to the hole in the wheel well and
screw it down.
Done.
By FAR the hardest car to change an air filter I've EVER come across.
re: replacing air filter
I just had my air filter changed this afternoon. I planned on changing it myself but the GM told me it would be no problem to change it for me and asked me to watch. Let me tell you this. Although the tech had a power gun for the screws, he unbolted the entire assembly, removed the intake, the rubber hose, unplugged the air mass sensor, etc. I would say almost everything came out. I was surprised. If you try to squeeze it in you are taking a chance of cracking some plastic and getting into trouble. I was not charged for the labor and the filter at Infiniti was 15 bucks. By the way, after 15,000 miles my filter was black! All city driving. I also had my in cabin charcoal A/C filter changed at the same time. That was kind of pricey at $89 but at least he also did not charge me for labor. Don't underestimate the time it takes to do the air filter properly.
I was going to unplug the mass air sensor as well so I could
push the intake back further, but was concerned about F-ing it
up and throwing a code.
Yes, squeezing it in can be tricky and costly if you push and squeeze too
hard, but again separating the two "power ducts" apart help.
I'd hope Infiniti would redesign it for the 2007 model.
push the intake back further, but was concerned about F-ing it
up and throwing a code.
Yes, squeezing it in can be tricky and costly if you push and squeeze too
hard, but again separating the two "power ducts" apart help.
I'd hope Infiniti would redesign it for the 2007 model.
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Originally Posted by bocatrip
I If you try to squeeze it in you are taking a chance of cracking some plastic and getting into trouble.
Originally Posted by Driver72
I was going to unplug the mass air sensor as well so I could
push the intake back further, but was concerned about F-ing it
up and throwing a code.
Yes, squeezing it in can be tricky and costly if you push and squeeze too
hard, but again separating the two "power ducts" apart help.
I'd hope Infiniti would redesign it for the 2007 model.
push the intake back further, but was concerned about F-ing it
up and throwing a code.
Yes, squeezing it in can be tricky and costly if you push and squeeze too
hard, but again separating the two "power ducts" apart help.
I'd hope Infiniti would redesign it for the 2007 model.
The K&N air filter alone breathes a bit better than a stock
paper filter. This gives the car a "bit" more power.
In reality I'd say about 1-2 horsepower on most cars (nothing you'll
ever feel).
Also supposedly you'll get slightly better gas mileage too.
Again, nothing you'll ever notice as gas mileage varies so
greatly from tank to tank with the way you drove that tankful
and even the quality of gas you used that time.
The only issue with K&N filters is the OIL on them.
If it's too oily little droplets of oil will get on the MAF and
eventually burn it out, requiring replacement.
This has happened to me twice in a dozen cars
I've put the filter on.
And according to both service techs, it's the cause of
most faulty MAF sensors.
Therefore, I often wipe my new K&N filter down a bit with a
soft cloth to remove any excess oil.
And when washing and re-oiling it's important to make
sure you cover the filter with just enough oil to trap the
dirt, but not too much to clog the MAF.
It's a fine line with many newer cars.
I use the K&N more out of the gullability that if I do get
and extra couple hp and a percentage or two better gas mileage
that the extra $35-40 you spend on it will come back to you
in a couple years.
Sadly though, I can't say I'd "recommend" anybody getting them.
If you throw a MAF sensor because of it, the time needed to
go to the dealer to get it fixed is a PITA and NOT worth any
slight power gain or MPG gain you get from the filter alone.
If you are going to get a full intake and exhaust on your car
then by all means use a high flow filter like the K&N.
paper filter. This gives the car a "bit" more power.
In reality I'd say about 1-2 horsepower on most cars (nothing you'll
ever feel).
Also supposedly you'll get slightly better gas mileage too.
Again, nothing you'll ever notice as gas mileage varies so
greatly from tank to tank with the way you drove that tankful
and even the quality of gas you used that time.
The only issue with K&N filters is the OIL on them.
If it's too oily little droplets of oil will get on the MAF and
eventually burn it out, requiring replacement.
This has happened to me twice in a dozen cars
I've put the filter on.
And according to both service techs, it's the cause of
most faulty MAF sensors.
Therefore, I often wipe my new K&N filter down a bit with a
soft cloth to remove any excess oil.
And when washing and re-oiling it's important to make
sure you cover the filter with just enough oil to trap the
dirt, but not too much to clog the MAF.
It's a fine line with many newer cars.
I use the K&N more out of the gullability that if I do get
and extra couple hp and a percentage or two better gas mileage
that the extra $35-40 you spend on it will come back to you
in a couple years.
Sadly though, I can't say I'd "recommend" anybody getting them.
If you throw a MAF sensor because of it, the time needed to
go to the dealer to get it fixed is a PITA and NOT worth any
slight power gain or MPG gain you get from the filter alone.
If you are going to get a full intake and exhaust on your car
then by all means use a high flow filter like the K&N.
I just replace the oem filter to the K&N one. Easiest thing ever! Took me approx 10 mins with 5 mins cleanup. 4 clips, 1 bolt. I'd recommend you doing it when the engine's cool because there's one clip where you might get burned. The actual intake box is very flexible and i was able to separate it a good 2 inches, which is enough to remove the old filter.
Also did the in-cabin filter. Took me 15 mins since you have to removed more screws and the lining.
Also did the in-cabin filter. Took me 15 mins since you have to removed more screws and the lining.


