$5 Door Lock Motor (Actuator) Fix
#196
#198
What 3 screws ? I can put the window down. I can hear the actuator working...
if you mean the 3 screws from inside the door trim they are off but that doesnt help as the door is closed and i cant take the trim off..
Last edited by R6n350GT; 01-26-2011 at 05:15 PM.
#199
He means the 2 screws behind the inside handle and one screw in the inside latch handle.
After this you want to gently pull the top of the door panel to get it off the door.
Keep in mind the sides and bottom will still be connected because the door is closed.
You will need something to reach in there and yank on the door latch cable.
The latch cable overrides the lock cable. Be careful and don't break/bend/damage anything.
After this you want to gently pull the top of the door panel to get it off the door.
Keep in mind the sides and bottom will still be connected because the door is closed.
You will need something to reach in there and yank on the door latch cable.
The latch cable overrides the lock cable. Be careful and don't break/bend/damage anything.
#200
He means the 2 screws behind the inside handle and one screw in the inside latch handle.
After this you want to gently pull the top of the door panel to get it off the door.
Keep in mind the sides and bottom will still be connected because the door is closed.
You will need something to reach in there and yank on the door latch cable.
The latch cable overrides the lock cable. Be careful and don't break/bend/damage anything.
After this you want to gently pull the top of the door panel to get it off the door.
Keep in mind the sides and bottom will still be connected because the door is closed.
You will need something to reach in there and yank on the door latch cable.
The latch cable overrides the lock cable. Be careful and don't break/bend/damage anything.
where do i pull the top of the door up? I tried prying the space above the inside handle where the window gap is but its too tight.
Are you saying even with the door closed and push pins holding the trim in place you can still pull the top of the door trim off the metal lip of the door frame??
Can you describe the process so i dont break anything,
Thanks so much !
Last edited by R6n350GT; 01-26-2011 at 06:11 PM.
#202
I edited the post as you were typing lol, im glad your on to help!
I jsut added "Are you saying even with the door closed and push pins holding the trim in place you can still pull the top of the door trim off the metal lip of the door frame??
Can you describe the process so i dont break anything"
I jsut added "Are you saying even with the door closed and push pins holding the trim in place you can still pull the top of the door trim off the metal lip of the door frame??
Can you describe the process so i dont break anything"
#203
I can't say I've taken off the door panel with the door closed. But having removed the door panel nearly 50 times now, that is how I would start.
Remember the door panel is made of plastic and you should be very gentile when trying to pry it off the top of the door brim.
Use 3-4 large flathead screwdrivers if you can, and use paper towels or something for padding.
Remember the door panel is made of plastic and you should be very gentile when trying to pry it off the top of the door brim.
Use 3-4 large flathead screwdrivers if you can, and use paper towels or something for padding.
#205
I can't say I've taken off the door panel with the door closed. But having removed the door panel nearly 50 times now, that is how I would start.
Remember the door panel is made of plastic and you should be very gentile when trying to pry it off the top of the door brim.
Use 3-4 large flathead screwdrivers if you can, and use paper towels or something for padding.
Remember the door panel is made of plastic and you should be very gentile when trying to pry it off the top of the door brim.
Use 3-4 large flathead screwdrivers if you can, and use paper towels or something for padding.
Yeah i tried that, the button just does nothing, you can kind of feel that there is no longer a cable attached to it..
#206
This part is critical. I have noticed in some installations that when you screw in the lower 2 screws that secure the door lock cable, that it can lift up the pin pretty high (sometimes) causing it to pop out of the hole and needs to be readjusted.
After I screw those in I always run a little endurance test and manually switch it back and forth to make sure it will stay in the hole.
In your case, it is for sure that the pin came out of the hole and the screws are not securing the door lock cable any more.
After I screw those in I always run a little endurance test and manually switch it back and forth to make sure it will stay in the hole.
In your case, it is for sure that the pin came out of the hole and the screws are not securing the door lock cable any more.
#207
This part is critical. I have noticed in some installations that when you screw in the lower 2 screws that secure the door lock cable, that it can lift up the pin pretty high (sometimes) causing it to pop out of the hole and needs to be readjusted.
After I screw those in I always run a little endurance test and manually switch it back and forth to make sure it will stay in the hole.
In your case, it is for sure that the pin came out of the hole and the screws are not securing the door lock cable any more.
After I screw those in I always run a little endurance test and manually switch it back and forth to make sure it will stay in the hole.
In your case, it is for sure that the pin came out of the hole and the screws are not securing the door lock cable any more.
When you did yours, can you manually push the door lock button and have it trigger central locking
Also when you use your remote does the button fully open or close or just move a bit. The factory drivers one fully opens and closes..
Thanks
#208
No this only replaces the electrical functionality of the power locks.
Manually locking/unlocking does nothing electronically to the other locks and the alarm.
The metal pin that goes in the hole that fell out of yours is the manual switch.
You could keep the pin out and keep it attached to the actuator rod to make your door only lock/unlock electronically.
You could also use the same actuator to pop your door open as well.
Keep in mind I have installed these on 35 G35's so far and provide this as a service.
I have also shipped out 50 or so kits all across the US and Canada and Puerto Rico.
I probably have the most experience with this kit than anybody else here.
And I'm pretty good with window motors too.
Manually locking/unlocking does nothing electronically to the other locks and the alarm.
The metal pin that goes in the hole that fell out of yours is the manual switch.
You could keep the pin out and keep it attached to the actuator rod to make your door only lock/unlock electronically.
You could also use the same actuator to pop your door open as well.
Keep in mind I have installed these on 35 G35's so far and provide this as a service.
I have also shipped out 50 or so kits all across the US and Canada and Puerto Rico.
I probably have the most experience with this kit than anybody else here.
And I'm pretty good with window motors too.
Last edited by pythonjosh; 01-26-2011 at 07:13 PM.
#209
No this only replaces the electrical functionality of the power locks.
Manually locking/unlocking does nothing electronically to the other locks and the alarm.
The metal pin that goes in the hole that fell out of yours is the manual switch.
You could keep the pin out and keep it attached to the actuator rod to make your door only lock/unlock electronically.
You could also use the same actuator to pop your door open as well.
Keep in mind I have installed these on 35 G35's so far and provide this as a service.
I have also shipped out 50 or so kits all across the US and Canada and Puerto Rico.
I probably have the most experience with this kit than anybody else here.
And I'm pretty good with window motors too.
Manually locking/unlocking does nothing electronically to the other locks and the alarm.
The metal pin that goes in the hole that fell out of yours is the manual switch.
You could keep the pin out and keep it attached to the actuator rod to make your door only lock/unlock electronically.
You could also use the same actuator to pop your door open as well.
Keep in mind I have installed these on 35 G35's so far and provide this as a service.
I have also shipped out 50 or so kits all across the US and Canada and Puerto Rico.
I probably have the most experience with this kit than anybody else here.
And I'm pretty good with window motors too.
You know how if you push the drivers lock manually it automatically locks the passenger side door, i forgot if the factor passenger door did the same or if it only locks itself.. Know what i mean?
The reason i ask is when i hooked up the actuator it felt quite stiff to manually use the button, its like the manual function was taken away now there was a actuator rod attached. Is this correct to say once you do this you can only use the remote to open the passenger door and not the door lock?
#210
Maybe that is another electrical feature of the stock actuator. Since most cars I work on, the actuator has died, so I never get to experience it.
So afterwards, the doors will not send a lock/unlock to the other locks when manually switched.
After this mod the switch usually does get a little stiffer. When installing manually pull and push the actuator rod to make sure it has very little resistance thru the hole in the white spine and the hole in the lock handle housing.
A lot of resistance due to misaligned holes can lead to excessive wear on the actuator and cause it to fail prematurely.
So afterwards, the doors will not send a lock/unlock to the other locks when manually switched.
After this mod the switch usually does get a little stiffer. When installing manually pull and push the actuator rod to make sure it has very little resistance thru the hole in the white spine and the hole in the lock handle housing.
A lot of resistance due to misaligned holes can lead to excessive wear on the actuator and cause it to fail prematurely.