Carbon Fiber Care??
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,445
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From: Arcadia, CA
Carbon Fiber Care??
For those of you with CF parts, I'm sure this has been covered before. But I did several searches and couldn't come up with any solid info... When your CF parts get old, they undoubtedly get dull and even turn kinda yellow. I can see that its not the CF itself, but just the resin on the outside. What products/methods do you use to restore your CF parts?
Wax, rubbing compounds, etc?? Please share your experiences. I know it can be done, just don't know exactly how?
Wax, rubbing compounds, etc?? Please share your experiences. I know it can be done, just don't know exactly how?
Former G35driver Vendor
iTrader: (93)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 9,524
Likes: 3
From: So. Cali - Rowland Hts
your kinda outta luck - when you vacuum CF you leave A LOT of resin that'll eventually go yellow or even from the get-go you'll see a yellow hue to it when you shine a light on it. There is nothing you can do about it when you're vacuuming. You can get around it by keeping your car garaged and everything but eventually it'll happen then you can re-clear coat it.. but overtime it'll turn yellow again.
The only way around it is when you use a method called auto-claving to sum it up its pressured instead of vacuumed so you use the LEAST amount of resin possible. You'll also get a VERY VERY nice finish and weave pattern similar and equal to the weaves you'll see on AMUSE's MINE's ZelePerformance AMG's engine covers and BLACK series.. it'll be SO tightly together that you wont be able to see the strands of carbon. then depending on the core you use it can be VERY VERY strong, thin, or light.. if you put two pieces down compared to vacuum carbon one will reflect yellow light and the autoclave one will reflect black =)
eh in the end there isnt a solution other then to buy a higher level of assembled carbon
The only way around it is when you use a method called auto-claving to sum it up its pressured instead of vacuumed so you use the LEAST amount of resin possible. You'll also get a VERY VERY nice finish and weave pattern similar and equal to the weaves you'll see on AMUSE's MINE's ZelePerformance AMG's engine covers and BLACK series.. it'll be SO tightly together that you wont be able to see the strands of carbon. then depending on the core you use it can be VERY VERY strong, thin, or light.. if you put two pieces down compared to vacuum carbon one will reflect yellow light and the autoclave one will reflect black =)
eh in the end there isnt a solution other then to buy a higher level of assembled carbon
Former G35driver Vendor
iTrader: (93)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 9,524
Likes: 3
From: So. Cali - Rowland Hts
IvoryGT - IGTautomotive, Paul does some of it
I do it for the G37 radiator core support cover and battery left right covers.. working on a few others as well
but its $200 - the engine cover itself is $400 shipped in drycarbon
I have pix but I need FTP client for vista 64 bit =(
I do it for the G37 radiator core support cover and battery left right covers.. working on a few others as well
but its $200 - the engine cover itself is $400 shipped in drycarbon
I have pix but I need FTP client for vista 64 bit =(
I thought IGT just did a Vacuum dry lay-up like MG does, but didn't actually pressurize the pieces just baked. I could have mis-read it.
It's good to see more companies willing to do quality carbon work.
It's good to see more companies willing to do quality carbon work.
Former G35driver Vendor
iTrader: (93)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 9,524
Likes: 3
From: So. Cali - Rowland Hts
he has access to both - obviously ones more cost efficient then other..
Vacuum would always win.. (cept I still cant get over how long it takes to actually prep the piece after ur done
) but from cost of mold and cost of material to retail its actually pretty good and you can always make a fiberglass mold out of it
- Eric
Vacuum would always win.. (cept I still cant get over how long it takes to actually prep the piece after ur done
- Eric
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