Just finished installing some auxilliary fogs/DRLs in the lower valence on the coupe. Not too tough an install. After looking over the coupe's wiring diagrams and schematics, I decided converting any of the existing lights to DRLs was too much of a PITA and went this route. The lights operate anytime and aren't dependant on any switch positions.

I picked up Hella Optilux 1800 projector fogs. That decision was based on cost (relatively cheap), quality (decent) and dimensions of the units themselves. Keep in mind my intent is to use them as DRLs; I might've gone for something else if I really were gonna use 'em for fogs or driving lights. There's actually enough room back there to work with most projection fogs/driving lights IMO (these sit a good 2.5" back from the crosshatch "grill".

On d3g's suggestion, I removed the center grill to reach down into the lower grills for mounting. As long as you're not Popeye, your arms & hands can fit. Best mounting point (again thanks to d3g) are the existing bolts in there (did have to drill out the Hella bracket a bit as the hole wasn't quite big enough).

The *cool* part is that I used a Hella Optilux Wireless Remote kit for the switch (to avoid having to go through the firewall and mount a switch somewhere).

The better part is that the Hella remote is within the Homelink's operating range, so I actually use the Homelink buttons on the mirror to turn 'em on and off

Here are a couple of pics...

<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by theworm on 12/14/03 12:57 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

154462-AuxFogFull.jpg

 

Here's a closeup of the mounting area w/them off. You can barely see 'em.



154464-AugFogCloseup.jpg

 

looks pretty good.. nice clean install..

yeah.. i had a remote series foglights on my last car and it's so much easier not having to send wires through the firewall.. it's cool that you linked it with the homelink..

awesome job!!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
David
Ivory Pearl G35C 5AT

 

Here are a few more pics of the mounting/wiring. Obviously, I'm in desperate need of a photography class

This is a closeup of the mounting bolt (one of them). This is the driver's side lamp (the lamp is the blur on the left side of the pic). If you just peek into the crosshatch you'll see 2 gold-colored bolts side-by-side (about 3" apart) and a black screw beneath it. The inner bolts were easier to reach w/the grill removed but if you've got longer/skinnier arms than me, you could do the outer bolts instead. They're 13mm IIRC.



154883-Mountbolt.jpg

 

This is a pic from the center grill down to the mounting location on the D side. The radiator is @ the top of the pic.



154884-Mountloc.jpg

 

Final pic of the wire routing (some of it). Didn't want to remove the grill to take pics of the front end, but essentially the wiring goes from the D-side light to the P-side light, then follows the horn wire harness, then up through a 1" hole that's between the P-side headlight housing and the washer fluid reservoir. I used the horn mounting bolt for ground.

In this pic the dotted yellow lines highlight the routing from behind the washer fluid res up to the battery area.

The yellow outlined area on the battery cover is where there's room to mount the control unit and relay. Unfortunately, my pics of that area didn't turn out well.

<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by theworm on 12/15/03 10:50 AM.</EM></FONT></P>

154887-PSide Engine.jpg

 

One final note: the depth from the mounting bolts to the crosshatch lower valence/grill is 5". The glass on the lamp gets toasty, so I'd not mount any lamp deeper than 4" to make sure there's some clearance betw the lamp and crosshatch.

 

Marginal viz @ night with them...they're fogs, afterall.

If you did some driving lights (different beam pattern) instead that'd be worthwhile for nighttime visibility. IMO.