http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

these are the right ones right, cuz if they are im gonna pick up these on the way home

 

Yes. You need 4 total. They come in pairs so 2 boxes.

 

ok some quick questions

i got the diodes, which particular way to they work, like i know these are directional. it as a gray ring on one end if that helps describe things.
edit: i've looked it up from what i under stand the banded end is the cathode, and that would be the side the ballast is hooked up to

also what have you used to diffuse the light in the clearance strips,

and how do you seal up the lights after you've extended it with the reducer.

also how does the diode on the high beam diode affect things, like when i splice it for the fog's highs solenoid should it be before or after, and when i splice the high for the power to the ballast. i hope that made sense

 

another question, i noticed that when you put the ccfl strip in you had to cut a section, how'd you seal that up

 

Think of the diode as a one way valve. It allows the current to flow in one direction but not the other. So you'll want the current to flow towards the solenoid on the + wire, but not the other way around. Supposedly when you turn off the solenoids, they can send a backsurge.

I don't know what others use to diffuse the lights on the clearance strip, but I have plenty of 03-05 clearance strips sitting around.

 

when i put the diodes in the high and fog power, they are both going to the same wire, would i need a relay or could i just combine the two wires,

 

You should really draw up a wiring diagram for your setup so we can be clear in what we are talking about. If I understand correctly, you are planning on using the stock highbeam wire that connects to the bixenon selenoid to power both the selenoids on the lowbeam and fog projector, and using it to power the ballast for the foglight projector when the highbeams are activated? If so, I would definetly relay a setup like that. The ballast requires significantly more amperage than the selenoids, and I'm not sure if the wiring meant for the single selenoid is adequate to power those three sources safely.

 

as requested

 

1 you dont necessarily NEED it, the inital current draw is the most significant then after ballast is powered up and warm, the switch between the foglight and high beam power is quick enough to allow for the current switch and the ballast remain unaffected.

2 it needs to be After the diode.

3. Yes and it should be easier that way to connect the second set of solenoid wiring to the existing one.

 

thanks a bunch thats exactly what i needed to know,

just one more question, how did you seal up the fog cap after putting the reducer in

 

I cut around the existing foglight cap indentation on the housing. I jb welded the reducer to the housing. I took the cap idents and fit it inside the reducer. This way the cap works as normal. Just make sure the idents and the reducer are both fixed properly.