just installed projectors into my 04 coupe..quick question
just installed projectors into my 04 coupe..quick question
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-G35-COUP...item230a7bdc51
bought a set from these guys...anyways my question is how come these arent similar to maximas projectors? i know their different cars but on my 09 max the projectors have a hint of blue (at the top line) and can see blue hints at times driving in front of oncoming maximas...but on my projectors there just plain white HID...what would be different? the lenses? if so are there any options?
i love my new projectors but i just want to see how id be able to get that hint of blue in..i love that look
bought a set from these guys...anyways my question is how come these arent similar to maximas projectors? i know their different cars but on my 09 max the projectors have a hint of blue (at the top line) and can see blue hints at times driving in front of oncoming maximas...but on my projectors there just plain white HID...what would be different? the lenses? if so are there any options?
i love my new projectors but i just want to see how id be able to get that hint of blue in..i love that look
i was thinking about 6k...idk bout 8 thats a little tooo blue for me...but i dont really want "blue" as my haed lights i just like that hint of blue and i think it all has to do with the lenses...but then again i have no idea.
The blue "line" that the OP is talking about is from the lens. The only way to get more is to put a clear lens on your projectors. Which is exactly what I did.
If you put these stupid 6000k or 8000k or 10000k bulbs in your headlights you're going the wrong way.
1) These bulbs will all be aftermarket.
2) These bulbs will all give out less useable light than the OEM 4300k bulbs those projectors come with.
3) These bulbs will not last as long as OEM bulbs
4) These bulbs are all garbage and NONE of them have the specs of a OEM bulb, their arcs and return wires vary and won't give you the same beam pattern as a well made OEM bulb.
I bought my projectors from the same vendor.
Do NOT change your bulbs. You receive 85122+s from that vendor. They're one of the highest quality bulbs you can get. They will be pretty yellow to start, but they change to a slighter white color. then stay there. The 85122+ bulbs are meant to last much longer than the standard 85122 without color shifting.
When you turn your projectors on, when you're near a wall you'll see yellow / orange at the top of your cutoff. At a distance you will get a little more blue. When you change to a clear lens, this changes to this:


All those silly LEDs and Halos on our cars look too cluttered IMO. The cleaner look is better. But to each their own.
So i reiterate. Do NOT change your bulbs like these guys said. You LOSE light output, and your BULB color changes to blue. you don't want this. you want to change that cutoff. The lens i used is a TSX-R lens. You can get it at http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...roducts_id=135
If you attempt this yourself, the G35 OEM projector has a "double" shield, one of the shields needs to be removed. If you don't, and you just swap the lenses, then you will end up with a even more yellow cutoff, and less light. This HAS to be done.
If you put these stupid 6000k or 8000k or 10000k bulbs in your headlights you're going the wrong way.
1) These bulbs will all be aftermarket.
2) These bulbs will all give out less useable light than the OEM 4300k bulbs those projectors come with.
3) These bulbs will not last as long as OEM bulbs
4) These bulbs are all garbage and NONE of them have the specs of a OEM bulb, their arcs and return wires vary and won't give you the same beam pattern as a well made OEM bulb.
I bought my projectors from the same vendor.
Do NOT change your bulbs. You receive 85122+s from that vendor. They're one of the highest quality bulbs you can get. They will be pretty yellow to start, but they change to a slighter white color. then stay there. The 85122+ bulbs are meant to last much longer than the standard 85122 without color shifting.
When you turn your projectors on, when you're near a wall you'll see yellow / orange at the top of your cutoff. At a distance you will get a little more blue. When you change to a clear lens, this changes to this:


All those silly LEDs and Halos on our cars look too cluttered IMO. The cleaner look is better. But to each their own.
So i reiterate. Do NOT change your bulbs like these guys said. You LOSE light output, and your BULB color changes to blue. you don't want this. you want to change that cutoff. The lens i used is a TSX-R lens. You can get it at http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...roducts_id=135
If you attempt this yourself, the G35 OEM projector has a "double" shield, one of the shields needs to be removed. If you don't, and you just swap the lenses, then you will end up with a even more yellow cutoff, and less light. This HAS to be done.
Last edited by aa2033; Nov 14, 2011 at 11:23 PM.
Actually even with the 8k i still get the color/cutoff mod. My cutoff is amazing nonetheless. Also get a rainbow color when looked at the right angle. Like you said everyone has their own taste.
+1 on your housing
+1 on your housing
I.E:
You have a Pink cutoff, and you swap your OEM bulbs for blue bulbs.
You will still have a Pink cutoff identical to the first set up, but now with blue bulbs and less light.
Make sense?
Blue bulbs just look tacky IMO. Did you do the clear lens swap? If so, you could just put OEM bulbs in, and have the exact same effect you see with your blue bulbs. But if you like it, go for it.
I'm just saying that changing his bulbs will not give him what he's looking for. What he is looking for can only be done by a clear lens swap.
and thanks, i worked hard on them. I've done many cars in the past, so i had an idea of what i wanted to do before i started
Trending Topics
As mentioned, don't change your bulbs to those ricey blue bulbs. Anything over 5000K will diminish your light output and you don't want that! Maxima's use E55 projectors and that's why you get that blue color flicker when you see them. It's a property of those projectors of the light bending over the shield that causes that. E55's are not that great a projector though they do have that insane blue/purple flicker which again has nothing to do with the bulb. They all have 4300k bulbs from the factory.
OE G35 projectors are much better than E55's but not as colorful out of the box. They need to be tweaked. You can try a clear lens swap but again as mentioned, you'll likely have to play with the shield to duplicate what you see on Maximas but it can be done. I am currently running FX35 projectors on my ride and with the removal of the back shield and a clear lens swap the color flicker on them is even greater than the E55's and I'm using OE Philips 4300K bulbs.
BTW, 85122+ bulbs start yellow resist color shifting and stay yellowish throughout they're entire life. If you want the bulb to shift to a whiter color with time, stick with Philips non plus 85122's........
FX with mods....
OE G35 projectors are much better than E55's but not as colorful out of the box. They need to be tweaked. You can try a clear lens swap but again as mentioned, you'll likely have to play with the shield to duplicate what you see on Maximas but it can be done. I am currently running FX35 projectors on my ride and with the removal of the back shield and a clear lens swap the color flicker on them is even greater than the E55's and I'm using OE Philips 4300K bulbs.
BTW, 85122+ bulbs start yellow resist color shifting and stay yellowish throughout they're entire life. If you want the bulb to shift to a whiter color with time, stick with Philips non plus 85122's........

FX with mods....

As mentioned, don't change your bulbs to those ricey blue bulbs. Anything over 5000K will diminish your light output and you don't want that! Maxima's use E55 projectors and that's why you get that blue color flicker when you see them. It's a property of those projectors of the light bending over the shield that causes that. E55's are not that great a projector though they do have that insane blue/purple flicker which again has nothing to do with the bulb. They all have 4300k bulbs from the factory.
OE G35 projectors are much better than E55's but not as colorful out of the box. They need to be tweaked. You can try a clear lens swap but again as mentioned, you'll likely have to play with the shield to duplicate what you see on Maximas but it can be done. I am currently running FX35 projectors on my ride and with the removal of the back shield and a clear lens swap the color flicker on them is even greater than the E55's and I'm using OE Philips 4300K bulbs.
BTW, 85122+ bulbs start yellow resist color shifting and stay yellowish throughout they're entire life. If you want the bulb to shift to a whiter color with time, stick with Philips non plus 85122's........
FX with mods.... ]
OE G35 projectors are much better than E55's but not as colorful out of the box. They need to be tweaked. You can try a clear lens swap but again as mentioned, you'll likely have to play with the shield to duplicate what you see on Maximas but it can be done. I am currently running FX35 projectors on my ride and with the removal of the back shield and a clear lens swap the color flicker on them is even greater than the E55's and I'm using OE Philips 4300K bulbs.
BTW, 85122+ bulbs start yellow resist color shifting and stay yellowish throughout they're entire life. If you want the bulb to shift to a whiter color with time, stick with Philips non plus 85122's........

FX with mods.... ]

And all there is to the shield is just moving it either further away or closer, right?
It's pretty easy. Bake your lights in the oven, pry them apart. The light will come apart in three pieces.
1) The plastic lens
2) the shroud of the entire housing
3) the black backing with the projector in it.
The projector can just pop out with the black tabs.
Make sure you put the plastic lens (the front of the housing) face DOWN. and cover it up. do NOT let dust, grime, or dirt in there. It's really hard to clean. Even microfiber scratches the inside of the lens. it has a UV coating on the back of it. If you get dust in there, it'll show up when you turn the lights on. You could use a air can to get rid of most of it, but probably won't get all of it.
The projector glass lens will have a silver circular clip type thing over it, there are 4 small tabs you can pop out. once you pop them out, the circular clip will come off. the lens just falls out, so be careful. The TSX lens just pops right in, and repeat to put it back together.
The harder part is taking the projector apart and taking the "double" shield out. It's really hard to describe. I'm doing a retrofit for a friends G35 next week, so if you're still interested, i can take pictures and send it to you. I'm planning on making a DIY so people can easily do it instead of get garbage aftermarket lights. Or spend 2000+ on the clearcorners.com lights or whatever they are.
Whenever you go away from 4300k bulbs, you always see less at night. As the temperature (4300k, 5000k, 6000k, 8000k, 10000k) goes higher, the more light you lose.
1) The plastic lens
2) the shroud of the entire housing
3) the black backing with the projector in it.
The projector can just pop out with the black tabs.
Make sure you put the plastic lens (the front of the housing) face DOWN. and cover it up. do NOT let dust, grime, or dirt in there. It's really hard to clean. Even microfiber scratches the inside of the lens. it has a UV coating on the back of it. If you get dust in there, it'll show up when you turn the lights on. You could use a air can to get rid of most of it, but probably won't get all of it.
The projector glass lens will have a silver circular clip type thing over it, there are 4 small tabs you can pop out. once you pop them out, the circular clip will come off. the lens just falls out, so be careful. The TSX lens just pops right in, and repeat to put it back together.
The harder part is taking the projector apart and taking the "double" shield out. It's really hard to describe. I'm doing a retrofit for a friends G35 next week, so if you're still interested, i can take pictures and send it to you. I'm planning on making a DIY so people can easily do it instead of get garbage aftermarket lights. Or spend 2000+ on the clearcorners.com lights or whatever they are.
Whenever you go away from 4300k bulbs, you always see less at night. As the temperature (4300k, 5000k, 6000k, 8000k, 10000k) goes higher, the more light you lose.
It's pretty easy. Bake your lights in the oven, pry them apart. The light will come apart in three pieces.
1) The plastic lens
2) the shroud of the entire housing
3) the black backing with the projector in it.
The projector can just pop out with the black tabs.
Make sure you put the plastic lens (the front of the housing) face DOWN. and cover it up. do NOT let dust, grime, or dirt in there. It's really hard to clean. Even microfiber scratches the inside of the lens. it has a UV coating on the back of it. If you get dust in there, it'll show up when you turn the lights on. You could use a air can to get rid of most of it, but probably won't get all of it.
The projector glass lens will have a silver circular clip type thing over it, there are 4 small tabs you can pop out. once you pop them out, the circular clip will come off. the lens just falls out, so be careful. The TSX lens just pops right in, and repeat to put it back together.
The harder part is taking the projector apart and taking the "double" shield out. It's really hard to describe. I'm doing a retrofit for a friends G35 next week, so if you're still interested, i can take pictures and send it to you. I'm planning on making a DIY so people can easily do it instead of get garbage aftermarket lights. Or spend 2000+ on the clearcorners.com lights or whatever they are.
Whenever you go away from 4300k bulbs, you always see less at night. As the temperature (4300k, 5000k, 6000k, 8000k, 10000k) goes higher, the more light you lose.
1) The plastic lens
2) the shroud of the entire housing
3) the black backing with the projector in it.
The projector can just pop out with the black tabs.
Make sure you put the plastic lens (the front of the housing) face DOWN. and cover it up. do NOT let dust, grime, or dirt in there. It's really hard to clean. Even microfiber scratches the inside of the lens. it has a UV coating on the back of it. If you get dust in there, it'll show up when you turn the lights on. You could use a air can to get rid of most of it, but probably won't get all of it.
The projector glass lens will have a silver circular clip type thing over it, there are 4 small tabs you can pop out. once you pop them out, the circular clip will come off. the lens just falls out, so be careful. The TSX lens just pops right in, and repeat to put it back together.
The harder part is taking the projector apart and taking the "double" shield out. It's really hard to describe. I'm doing a retrofit for a friends G35 next week, so if you're still interested, i can take pictures and send it to you. I'm planning on making a DIY so people can easily do it instead of get garbage aftermarket lights. Or spend 2000+ on the clearcorners.com lights or whatever they are.
Whenever you go away from 4300k bulbs, you always see less at night. As the temperature (4300k, 5000k, 6000k, 8000k, 10000k) goes higher, the more light you lose.
Whatever company you buy from ask them about the fitment issues. Both mine and my friends were both a little oversized. Obviously it isn't oversized enough to know by the naked eye. Take measurements before you apply them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post







