2007 G35x(sedan). So yesterday I changed my plugs and cleaned my throttle bodies. Clearly I screwed up because I cannot get the car to idle correctly. I went on forums and have been doing the idle reset 40 times though I cannot get the car to idle right. I am jumping between 1k-2k RPMs in park or in neutral. When I drove it, I am still at high idle though it is constant and not bouncing around while in gear.

I tried disconnecting the battery waiting 3 hours and then doing the reset. Nothing. I have talked with a good friend who is a mechanic, ran for codes when the SES light was on, nothing unusual other than high idle. Though I have since turned the SES light off doing the reset. It does come back on if the car is on for 5+ minutes for high rev. Took everything apart twice, no leaks, everything is mechanically sound, mechanic confirmed.

I am planning on going to either a Nissan or Infiniti dealer this week and I DO NOT WANT TO GET SLAMMED. I know how they work, and they will try to sell me on two new throttle bodies for 2.5k because, screw it, why not , right? I am told I can do a reset with a computer at the dealer but I have no idea.

Anyone on here a certified mechanic at Infiniti by chance who can advice on how to deal with this?

To add, I did this on my mom's 2009 FX35, same exact work, same engine and no issues. I guess 2007 G Sedans likes to play a different game.

Thank you in advance for advice!

 

It's because you moved the butterfly valve probably and it's hit or miss if it gets jacked up. Next time try unplugging the battery cable.

You need to get the car voltage to be 12.9v+, ATF warm, coolant 70-100 degrees, steering wheel straight, and all electronics in the off position.

Perform EC-78, "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning". See: Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor\Testing and Inspection
Perform EC-79, "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning". See: Computers and Control Systems\Testing and Inspection\Programming and Relearning\Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.
Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds .
Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds .
Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds .
Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
Fully release the accelerator pedal.
Wait 7 seconds , fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.
Start engine and let it idle.
Wait 20 seconds .
Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.


I had to turn it off and back on again right away.

 

Your exactly right. I did hold the butterfly valves in the open position while I was cleaning them. Though on a certain post which I found on my phone last night so I cannot tag it, someone mentioned that holding them shouldn't jack them up. I also read that a guy went to the dealer and for $80 or so they reset it with a computer and everything worked normal. He also mentioned that he did the reset though it did not help him.

I just tried it again after driving the car for over an hour and it did not work. The only thing I cannot test is the battery as I do not have the tools for it unfortunately. Is there anything that is a "tell" which I can look for to see if I am not doing the reset correctly? I get the SES light to flash, then turn solid and instantly I start the car but it doesn't do the trick.

 

Yea, they can use their consult tool to fix the idle. You need to follow the timing to a tee, I had to it once after cleaning my throttle body and it took at least 50 times to get it just right.

 

I'm going to try after dinner again and post update.

 

So, I tried last night, did not get it to work. Went to the dealer and they are saying that I need two need throttle bodies as I screwed up the old ones. 2.1k for repair. Thats too much for me. I am going to get aftermarket ones online and do the install myself.

Since I never had to buy parts for this car, recommendations on online sources?

 

I don't know I find it hard to believe both are bad just from touching them. Did they attempt to use the consult tool to set them?

 

Nissan's throttle body is very sensitive. You should NEVER move the valve(s) on any electronic throttle body.
What you should have done is put the ignition in on position and have someone step on the gas. Some cars would let the valve (s) open that way. But for my car. Didn't work, so I just spray it with the cleaner.

You must have messed up the spring for the valve causing it to let air in even though it's supposed to be "closed".
Worse case scenario, you would need to replace both TB.

 

Just got a call from the NIssan dealer where I went and knew the Finance guy. They put me through as a "friend" there so they took good care of my car. Took them a ton of attempts but they fixed it.

The throttle bodies are not as sensitive as people say. They can be decalibrated but that does not say they are broken.

Now what to do with the first dealership which took $140 of mine and called me after 20 minutes saying they cannot fix it and I need to do a 2.1k repair...

 

I'd ask them exactly what they did for that 140 dollars? I mean did they even hook up the car to their Consult tool? Probably, won't be able to get any money back, but I had a feeling they weren't broken. It's just a PITA to reset them if they become decalibrated.

 

hi Steve I had a few questions about what you did to fix the issue I have the same car & same exact idle issues

 

Very common issue with the 5.5 gen Maxima as well. If you move the throttle plate without the car running, you risk stripping the gears in the TB. If that happens I don't know of any other fix besides replacement.