I agree the clutches are a problem in the Jatco transmissions. The high drum clutch set was the weak link in the RE4's that we build. So we made a modified drum setup that holds enough clutch for our application. We also learned about setting up clutch gap and shift timing while fixing those problems. Then we break the tranny and find the next weakest part If IPT says 500 hp limit I bet there are some hard parts breaking at that point. Only way around that is having billet or treated parts made $$$. Like I said I'm not too worried about it holding up since that is the only way to learn about a new setup and how it fails first hand.

 

The guy I mentioned with the ST FX had the same done, a modified "basket" I think is how he referred to it. The threshold seemed to be around 425 ft lbs down low and then the trans would start slipping.
You could get a jump start and talk to John at IPT and pick his brain as much as he'll let ya
I'll watch this thread as it seems like you might be the guy to make this semi-lame transmission less semi-lame.

 

Just started installing new brakes. 2008 350Z calipers, 2006 G35 rear caliper brackets, 2008 Z cross drilled / slotted rotors. Cheap big *** brake kit = $250

Found that the passenger front wheel bearing was shot so I'm changing them out now. $16 each

 

I put some kind of cheap front bearings on my X a couple years ago and think one of them is already bad. I bought the Timken bearing to replace it but they're like $80.

 

I will have 3 front bearings replaced out of 2 cars so we'll see how far they go. I haven't had any trouble out of the 6 cheap bearings I used on the G20 5 bolt conversion builds we did years back and one of the cars has over 50k on them now. The G35 has a lot smaller bearing up front compared to the G20.

 

Yeah when I did one of my front wheel bearings my initial though was "no wonder it went bad" when I saw how small it was.

However I've been working on a lot of F350 and Ram 3500's lately so everything on the G looks laughably small in comparison.

 

Just finished up the RS7-G5 2 way remote start system. That is a real slick remote start setup. It was worth every penny and I now have remotes for the car!!! I also copied the only key that came with the car so I now have 2 keys and 2 remotes. Another project that got finished up since the dash and console were torn apart is the Android multimedia center install and cutting the AC board down. I still have quite a few hours left to finish up the AC board but the android unit is all finished up.

 

I just installed the same starter. Did you connect the hood switch input? There's another RS7 diy install thread but it didn't include where to find that wire in the car and I'm embarrassed to say I couldn't figure out exactly where the IPDM E/R is in my car to find the wire in the connector there. Not trying to divert the turbo thread into a remote starter thread... but did you find an easy/clean way to get the wire into the engine bay?

 

I didn't use it. I actually unplug the factory hood switch and remove it also. I did this to both G's since I had a bad hinge on the 04' and it would set the factory alarm off randomly and it's just more crap to give me a headache. Honestly I'm not too worried about someone getting under the hood to steal the car, if someone wants my car bad enough they'll show up with a flatbed and get it a lot quicker.

The one thing I didn't get quite right was the parking lights. I used the hazard flasher negative since it was right there and turned off the illumination timer for the parking lights when disarmed. But when you start it the primary's still come on and they flash (hazards) haha..... The turn off as soon as you key in and hit the brake so it's alright for now I guess.

 

I wasn't worried about someone getting into my hood. I just don't like the idea that it could be accidentally started if I'm under the hood. I didn't bother with the parking lights or horn since I still have to carry the oem fob to drive i just use that for security. I didn't have to touch the BCM harnesses at all.

 

A few codes popped up, P0300 & P0021. I knew that it was missing once in awhile at idle and it had a weird hesitation at 3800-4000 rpm. So I decided to open up the top end of the motor and get things fixed up for the turbo setup. I removed the upper intake, removed the valve covers, re sealed the valve covers for boost, installed NGK R spark plugs @ .35 gap, cleaned the intake cam solenoids and made sure the screens were clean, installed the new OEM cam sensors I had sitting around. I cleared the codes and drove it and it was a completely different car. The dual platinum Autolite plugs were shot and @ about .80 gap.

The valve cover gaskets were sealed with Ultra grey RTV. I cleaned the covers and made sure they were completely oil free, used grey RTV in the gasket slot, carb cleaned the fel-pro gaskets to get the mold release off of them, installed the gaskets in the valve cover, bolted the covers to my mock engine in the garage and let them sit over night. Cleaned the head surfaces, cleaned the steel spark plug tubes with carb cleaner and scotch brite pads, used a thin layer of grey RTV on head surface and spark plug tubes, Used a thin layer in the valve cover spark plug tube gaskets also. Then I installed them back on the engine. This is about the same way we seal our SR20 covers and never have had a leak up to 26 PSI. The only down point is that the covers are probably permanent and may never come off of the engine again

The spark plugs and gap will probably be played around with quite a bit as we aren't sure what boost we can get away with on the factory ignition without blowout.

Edit : So far 11psi on NGK "R" @ .035 gap is working good

 

Had the car finished up and it was steaming and loosing water.... Found that the top radiator hose must have pulled on the neck and cracked the radiator. I should have known better since I had this happen a couple years back on one of our SR cars while changing a tranny. At least AM-autoparts is only 3 hours away from me so my stuff always gets here in 2 days. Was only $55 but I had to widen the lower condenser mounting holes with a dremel and flat file. I'm kinda glad I broke it since it was the original 13+ year old unit and it had probably 5-6 hand fulls of leaves,grass, and dirt between the radiator and condenser!

Note to self: Always disconnect radiator hoses when jacking the engine around!!

 

And here I thought I was the only one who is secretly happy when an original part breaks!

 

We just finished up the upper intake / fuel rail setup in the last 2 weekends (Added pics above). I'm going to get the car in the garage and add the return line, regulator, and fuel pump then I'll wire in the FIC6 to control them. I'm pretty sure I won't need to change much on the G35 ECU depending on what fuel pressure I run. I'll probably just need to add a little fuel to the main table and change the cold start table for E85. I have decided to just re flash my stock ECU with the fueling changes, it will take quite a bit of road tuning and flashing but it's not going to cost me anything but time. I have just about finished writing a romraider definition for my ECU so I can test it soon. Most of the important live tuning will be with the AEM FIC when it's under boost.

 

Been driving the car for about 1k miles and it felt doggy and almost feels like it would fall on it's face a little when the throttle is stabbed. Since everything on the car is original 159k mile parts I decided to start checking sensors. I swapped the MAF and it was exactly the same. So I bought 2 brand new Bosch widebands (upstreams) since they are on my STD list before the turbo install. After about 5 mins of driving the car woke up big time, even gets a long tire bark into 2nd gear. The regular service life of the sensors should be good for 80k miles. After that they can get sluggish. My 04' G35x is still on it's original sensors @ 136k and feels good but I think I might datalog the two cars now that I have one with end of life sensors and one with brand new just to see the difference.