I'd like to see the logs for the upstream sensors if you can post them. I'm debugging some problems with mine and would like to see what known good sensor traces look like.

 

^^ I'm very interested in that datalog. I need an excuse to replace my 140k mile sensors but if the car runs fine and doesn't throw codes I can't find one
Were the old (bad) sensors still showing as running properly under closed loop with no codes?

 

They'll show that they're "working" if you are just idling the engine, it's not until you start to mash the throttle that you really see the difference in how much quicker a fresh sensor responds.

 

Yeah, no codes because I have been making sure the car is perfect before I start the turbo install. So if I didn't have another G35x I probably would have missed this problem since I have never driven one before I bought both cars. It was kinda hard to buy $190 worth of sensors when you just paid $500 for the car haha. I'll try to get some data logging TPS vs O2 but it would have been better to get logging on the ones I just pulled since they were really bad and my 04' seems to run very well for the mileage (136k). Oh, I just remembered that my mileage was a bit worse than the 04' too. I' just filled up this morning (running E15 on both cars) and am doing a mileage check to see if it picks back up.

Anyway we are going to start installing the return fuel line, FPR, AEM 340lph fuel pump, modified upper intake, gt500 injectors, and Fic6 with injector wiring harness pretty soon. After we get it finished up I'll make sure everything is running correctly and then start street tuning NA on E85 (about 67% here) so it's ready for some boost. Tuning the Hitachi ecu for E85 will take us the most time to get perfect. When we add the turbo and tune with the FIC it should only take one night to tune. We'll also datalog it and use virtual dyno to get a rough idea where we are at.

 

Didn't get much time to work on the fuel system this weekend. At least I got my poor man's return fuel line kit installed. I used a stock 2004 fuel line installed into the extra slot on the OEM fuel line hangers for that OEM look. Added pics up top.

I filled up the tank after the O2 sensor change. It get's the same mileage as my 04' now - Got 17.3mpg city (E15 fuel)

 

This week the car has had a weird spot from 2200 - 3500 RPM. Kind of a slight studder or loss of power. We started logging the car against my 04' to see why. The ECU was pulling 7-10 degrees of timing so I checked the codes and it had stored Knock sensor high and low errors. We cleared them out and the timing came back to normal until I got really hard on it and barked 2nd gear then the timing started backing off again. It didn't pop the codes again but I am guessing after awhile it will. So I'm going to guess the knock sensor or sub harness may have a problem. I pulled both off of my spare FX35 drive train and took the harness to work to clean up, test, and solder the crimp connectors to make sure I don't have any more issues with this. We already tested the FX35 knock sensor output and it looks good. the harder we smack it the higher the output Sooner or later I'll get this thing gremlin free so I feel safe to boost it....

Hopefully this weekend I'll get it changed out. I may put on the new upper intake with injectors and rails during assembly so that is done at the same time.

Another note: The CEL light never came on, it just stored the code.

 

Made a plug on the lathe last night to block off the internal fuel regulator built onto the top of the fuel filter. I'm replacing the fuel filter also, it had nasty brown crap pouring out of it. The tank we pulled this from was crystal clean so the filter really did it's job. I'm also going to flow check, flow match and clean the primary injectors to make sure she is running purrfect. I'm going to install a Aeromotive Stealth 340lph #11542 since I had one laying around from an old G20 project car. Pretty much the same thing as the AEM green pump I was going to order.

 

The fuel pump hangar is pretty much done. I had all of the fittings and parts laying around in the garage so I was thankful that I didn't have to order anything. The Areomotive pump was longer than stock so I had to cut the 4 tabs off of the bottom side of the pump, Also had to trim the upper side of the fuel filter so the pump outlet gasket would bottom out and seal, and cut the bottom plate so the pre filter screen didn't interfere, drilled a hole in the bottom plate for the pump internal relief. I ran the fuel return to the factory venturi and hope it still works correctly with the new setup. If not I'll look into a aftermarket replacement like this one:

http://www.radiumauto.com/Venturi-Je...-Kit-P760.aspx


Also we figured out the knock sensor / harness problem that was pulling timing out. While I was back there unplugging the original one I pulled on the harness and the wires came right out of the looming. It was rubbed in half! Looks like there is a pretty sharp edge on the cylinder head the rubs it over time.

 

We just about finished up the fuel system this weekend. Chasing a few drips, and triple checking things so we don't burn the car down I picked up a Harbor Freight boost / Vac gauge Sunday. They are actually very accurate but unfortunately only go to 20psi,

I also cleaned and flow tested the stock 160k mile injectors on my modified injector machine. It's a Chinese injector tester (that's about all they can do, no flow testing ability how they come or even stable pressure) with a stock G20 fuel pump and added a return fuel system on the side. I actually need to change several things on it so I can accurately flow 6 injectors at the same time. I was quite surprised that all 6 injectors were within less than 1% of each other so I didn't need to grab the set off of the FX35 spare engine to match a set closer. Most Injector flow places only match within 2%, unless it's really high end ones like ID or big expensive stuff. I'm actually going to run the new return system @ 4.5 bar fuel pressure to compensate for the E85 (actually 67% here) fuel that I'll be using.

The G35 injectors:
3.5 Bar FP @ 15secs = 82cc x4 (60 seconds) 328cc
4.0 Bar FP @ 15secs = 88cc x4 (60 seconds) 352cc

The GT500 injectors flow 588cc @ 3 bar ( I need to upgrade the fuel system on my flow bench to test above 3 bar with BIG injectors)

 

Picked up a AEM Fic6 really cheap ($225) new in the box. Got it installed and the 6x extra injector harness too. I normally make a patch harness so I can remove it and make wiring changes but there is so much room where the ECU harness lays that I decided to just hard wire it into the car. The mini glove box was a great place for the AEM. I just removed the glove box light and ran the harness and reference vac/boost line through. I added a few pics up top.

 

What injector cleaner is that? I need to upgrade mine since it's only a crappy little single injector unit but don't want to spend too much since it's rarely used.

EDIT: You need to put the deadfront back on your panelboard man.

 

It's a MR. Cart Tool China unit I bought off aliexpress about 3-4 years ago. I don't think they even make that model anymore because they were so crappy. I pretty much gutted mine and used parts laying around to make it work correctly. I was pretty upset when it came in and started testing injectors with it and I found out that it couldn't keep a constant fuel pressure while flow testing. One of these days I'll get it finished up to flow 6 large injectors at a time.

I'll get my panel back on after I'm done welding everything on the 05' turbo G project. I borrowed my brothers Syncrowave and it's wired into the 220 temporarily I know my garage isn't OSHA safe, it's more like 99 ways to die in there right now haha

 

I'm adding some stuff we have finished up through the last 2 weekends. I'll add more pics and info through the week when I have more time.

So we haven't ever built a rear mount turbo and the G35x was a perfect car for the project. With the front differential and all of the X stuff there really wasn't room to work without pulling the drive train. It's going to be fun to play with and see first hand how well we can get her to spool up. We have already finished up the Hot pipes with 2.5" mandrel bent mild steel, Cold side is finished up with 2.5" aluminum, and the oiling system is going to be dedicated so I don't have to run any lines to it. So just a turbo in the trunk with a oiling system period. As I have listed above we used my old GTX3076R .82 from the old G20 VET car and also the stainless OBX muffler from it too! The cool thing about how we set this up is that we can pull the turbo and change it out in about 45 mins so we can test different setups. I have a feeling a GTX3582r will be in the works later on if things work well.

Things left: Some wiring, gauge placement, programing a controller for the oiling system, road fuel tuning, and some tweaking on the fuel regulator.
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Wow I've never seen a rear turbo setup like that. Do you build a rear firewall to prevent accidental carbon monoxide leaks into the cabin? How do you route the intake piping back up to the engine again? Are there any problems with such a large intake volume from having such a long intake pipe? Where do you mount the oil cooler?

 

Right now I'm just testing everything. It's all unknown to me and just a lot of research on rear mounts between STS and a bunch of custom race built stuff. It's really no different than a STS kit but in the trunk. I'll probably box the hot side in later when I'm finished up with everything but doubt there will be any leakage at the T3 / 4 bolt exit flange with the type of gaskets I used. Could throw in one of those home carbon monoxide detectors in there just in case haha but probably isn't any worse than some of the old cars I had with exhaust leaks

Right now I am running without intercooler so the volume probably isn't as bad as you would think. I'm going to log IAT's on low boost and creep it up and find out when I will need water injection that will #1 cool the charge #2 add a slight HP boost because of the cooler charge. Another cooling factor is the aluminum tubing acts as a small intercooler itself. Hopefully the intake volume won't effect the spool and the exhaust distance won't either... Lot's to play with. Oh, the routing wasn't as bad as I though. Especially with a X AWD car. I'll add pics tomorrow when I get some more time.

Oil pump / cooler: I'm running a gerotor type pump and aluminum tank with pressure monitor and temp monitor. Bench testing the pump system I have learned that we needed to run the pump with a PWM control to keep the pressure consistent because of oil temp and viscosity. So we run the pump at lower voltage (reduces heat) as the temp rises. I still have a lot of work to do with that part of it and getting the car built so I can real world test it will speed the process up. We could probably do this in a simple crude way but I would rather have the oil delivery keep a consistent pressure at all temps because it will be driven in summer and winter months. I'm not sure if and when we will need a oil cooler until I get it on the road and start watching the turbo oil temp.