Nope, there are no other better suggestions, that's about as good as it's going to get. You'll get a louder note with the Z-tube, and the spacer will give you the best N/A horsepower gain you are going to see. The OEM airbox you want to keep; aftermarket intakes are either neutral or cost you power.

 

Thanks G2B3.

I read somewhere that the rev-up intake box will provide a little more gain. Is there truth to this claim?

Where do I find a z tube? just buy one OEM or one of the aftermarket z-tubes?

For the spacer, is there any particular kit that works best? Is there a need/benefit to the more expensive kits or do the cheaper ones work just as well?

 

There's a thread comparing oem and aftermarket intakes. Don't know if it included revup box on non-revup engine. Any gain will be nominal. Used Z-tubes show up in private marketplace often. It's really hard to go wrong with anything Motordyne. That's the spacer I'll get when Infiniti elite extended warranty runs out.

 

The revup airbox has a "velocity stack" which is supposed to be a butter design, but I promise is completely negligible as far as power -not worth any money spent. Doing a K&N panel filter, Z-tube and appropriate motordyne's spacer will do just fine for you. Where do you live? Your appropriate MD spacer depends on your climate.

Also, kinetix front upper control arms are the best bang for your buck up front, and SPC, SPL or Eibach are the only acceptable arms out back. You need them if you're lowered cuz our negative camber angles from the factory are too extreme for proper tire wear with even the slightest suspension mods.

 

DB, if you're not going to lower your car there's no need to purchase new A arms or rear camber arms and toe bolts. From what I have read so far, until you get into more mods, this is what I recommend.

Drop in filter such as a K&N or a dry option such as Amsoil
Z tube
Motordyne plenum spacer, which version depends on where you live as previously mentioned
Sway bars from Motordyne or Hotchkis, best bang for the buck mod you will find. You mentioned better handling and these will dramatically change that and super easy to install.

Then stop there. Do your routine maintenance: spark plugs, fluids, check brakes, check front and rear endlinks and you should be good. For aux input look through the Audio/Video section stickies for a thread on adding an adapter to the stock stereo to make that happen. Pulling the HU is a pain but there are detailed instructions on how to do it. It's not hard but time consuming ad well worth it. Anything else just search the forum or ask us and enjoy your new ride.

 

Thanks. I'm in Phoenix. Wasn't aware that climate determined the kit. I need more info on which kit to get. Searching the spacer just gives me a slew of useless threads lol.

Thanks. If I do end up lowering the sedan, it'll be only a little bit if it helps with handling. Would lowering help with handling at all? If not, then I won't even sweat it. I'll just switch to sport 18" rims at some point in the future to fill the gaps. Would 350z stock springs be better or would a set of coupe springs be better?

I recently replaced the rear shocks, noticed a significant change. Will need to do the fronts soon. I know that when I go in there, I'll need to replace the knuckle as it's leaking, so that's on my to do list for sure. Should also replace all the bushings at the very least as well, correct?

Having a hard time distinguishing what is essential for the front suspension and what are "nice to haves". Once I get the suspension sorted, then I can start doing the "nice to haves" such as sway bars.

I have some audio stuff coming. Even though I'm Deaf, I wasn't happy with the factory HU and spent several days researching my options. I opted to just get a 2nd hand DDin from another member and get a nib last year's model HU to make it work. with the peak power the aftermarket HU will provide, the stock speakers should be more than enough for now. Trunk space is quite limited so I'm not keen on adding a sub any time soon until I can get my hands on a fitted enclosure box but that's low priority considering the other things I could do first.

I'll definitely have to save up for a long time so when a SC kit pops up for sale on the used classifieds, I can ****** it up. 280 crank hp is already a hoot, not sure what these cars are pushing in terms of whp, but getting 370-400 whp is more than plenty for me and would allow me to have long term fun with the car to hold my wife and I over while we work towards buying a house, get pay raises from our careers and what not before we start spending money on toys.

 

Front lower control arm (both positions) and compression rod bushing replacement are necessary. Both should be replaced with polyurethane types.

 

Just updating the shopping list for myself and make sure I'm not missing anything:

Suspension replacement stuff:
front left end link - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...id=411&jpid=27 $22.89

front right end link - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...id=411&jpid=28 $22.89

rear left end link - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...id=411&jpid=22 $19.55

rear right end link - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...id=411&jpid=23 $19.60

SPD front knuckle for lower control arm, need 2 - https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...n.php?II=20887 $69.95

Energy inner/outer front lower control arm bushing kit - https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...on.php?II=7009 $56.00

Energy compression rod bushing kit - https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...on.php?II=7011 $56.00

KYB front strut mount, need 2 - https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...n.php?II=11252 $45.99


Kenetix racing front upper adjustable control arms - https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...ion.php?II=858 $267.99
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Question: will I need new ball joints for the upper control arm, such as these? https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...on.php?II=7881

Will I also need any additional bushing sets such as the differential bushing, sub frame bushing, etc? Anything I'm missing? Do I need anything else for the compression rods?