The first photo all the components look clean, except that it doesn't look completely seated onto the battery terminal and there doesn't appear to be any heat damage or the carbon scoring/arcing damage on the stud. Must just be a trick of the light in the later photo.

What you should check next, when you get back in the vehicle, before you start it (and blow the fuse) do you have power to all the dash lights? Does it go through the normal power on test where it illuminates every light in the instrument cluster BEFORE you turn the key to the start position? If you DO HAVE POWER and then you try to start the vehicle and the fuse blows I would have the starter checked, it may be failing internally but only after it's completely hot.

There are only two circuits controlling the starter, first is the big wire from the positive side of the battery, the one that's bolted to the top of the fusible link holder.

The second is the ignition circuit which has two parts:

1. Ignition key switch (or intelligent key if equipped), neutral safety switch, clutch switch (if manual transmission, other park/neutral switch), and NATS (security). This part of the circuit is PROBABLY not the issue.

2. Wire from the battery harness, through the starting relay (controlled by the previous circuit) to the starting solenoid. The only part of this circuit I would suspect (initially) is the starter engagement solenoid (round tube looking part on the side of the starter, it's integrated with the starter so it's basically all one part).

Normally I don't ever suggest throwing parts at a vehicle to try to fix an issue, it's a waste of money. However, the starter is one item that I'm normally comfortable replacing if it has close to 100k miles on it since there are a variety of problems that can arise that are EXTREMELY difficult to accurately troubleshoot due to not being able to simulate the high heat conditions a starter has after the engine has been running for a length of time.

Definitely inspect the wires around the starter, especially the big wire going to the battery positive terminal.

If everything checks out ok and you can positively determine that when you park the vehicle:

-There is definitely power to the instrument cluster (lights all turn on) BEFORE you try to start the motor.
-That the fuse trips WHEN you try to start the motor

Then I would replace the starter if it were my vehicle, taking the vehicle to the Nissan dealership for a diagnostic might save you money however if the issue turns out to be something else. It would -probably- only cost you a 1 hour diagnostic fee but I would call and explain everything to them either on the phone or in person before showing up.

 

I have started it twice , everything powers up like normal , car started perfect .

was under car and was inspecting starter , it looks great all wires are intact and nothing is touching metal

my question is since the positive cable was or seems to be connected to wrong stud on the fusible link could that cause the fusible link to blow ?

I am thankful for all your information

 

Uhhmmm... I would have to pull mine to verify but I'm almost 100% certain that both studs on the fusible link holder are mechanically the same piece of metal, it shouldn't matter which is bolted to which.

 

Looks like they kind of upgraded the ground connection with thicker wire and crappy splice job. The ground cable is extremely flimsy in my opinion. I replaced it in my car several years ago, because the wiring broke.

It doesn't matter what side the positivw cable is plugged they both go to the same place. The extra terminal is for like adding an accesory in. That is where i would wire in an amp when I used them. It does look like the poitive side had some arcing going on.

Did they check your charging system? Maybe the voltage regulator in the alternator is not working and causing an amp spike.

It could just be a small tear in the wiring rubbing against the body. Do you turn on anything when it blows?

Just saw it blows when you turn it on. Try doing a voltage drop test on the wiring that comes out from the battery to the starter and anything else it connects to. Corrosion, bad connections, faulty motors, and some other stuff can cause an amperage spike.