So I have a 2006 G35 . Im single mom on my own raising 3 boys . In the 20 years I was with my husband I never had my car in the shop no matter what the make . I kinda been lurking on this board for a year now when my abs motor started running when the car was turned off, I took car to shop and he sent me to dealer, this all started to scare me , I did not have enough information about the issue , so reading a little bit led me to the relay , and I was able to order the part and pop it in and it worked . I know its probably not a big deal but I never paid much attention to what was under the hood of any car and it feels good to have some knowledge.

So I am here again with another issue , not sure where to start that thread, but I have my 16 year old son who has spent hours with me under the car trouble shooting , its in his blood , he so very smart. So I hope we can come to some conclusions about my new issue , that keeps leaving me walking around town more miles than I wish to record.

So new issue if some one can tell me where to start thread, Fusible Link blowing , second one I put in since I had radiator replaced In matter of two weeks .

 

Here's a link to the FSM: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/ it will have all the info that dealer techs use and it's free.

Which fusible link are you blowing? The big one right on the battery?

Does it blow when you turn on something specific? Odds are something is shorted out and causing a large current draw. Good luck troubleshooting electrical issues is a big step to take on!

 

Start by inspecting all the basic components for damage, disconnect both battery terminals and follow both primary cables to their termination point. Pay particular attention for any.places the cable is rubbing against something, chances are it is arcing out somewhere due to damaged insulation.

Does the fusible link blow immediately when you plug in the battery? Are you able to start the vehicle at all? Does it only blow in a situation you can reproduce (like only when you turn on the AC or something).

 

So my car has been stuck in the grocery store parking lot the past three nights. I got a new link that I put in so I could get the car home which is two blocks. I had already tested all the fuses and battery tested good . So my son and I jacked the car to see if we could locate anything burnt going to or from the starter and the area where they replaced my radiator. Starter and Battery both replaced in December .

I could not find anything except for nothing looks like It did before I took it into shop . I took this photo of my battery area when I first broke down a day after leaving the shop , they had messed around in the battery area it did not look right. I showed this photo to someone and he pointed out that it looks as though they connected the positive cable to the wrong terminal which blew my link. When I bought my new link I put it on the same way following this photo ,which I think blew second. What do you think???



fuse box was in wrong place and I didnt like how the ground looked thats why I took photo originally ,

 

the first time I replaced the link after it left shop I was able to drive car for about a week before it blew. I had car in shop twice in matter of few days . First time i took it in it was overheating on highway. So i asked for coolent change and system burp. They said it was thermostat. A day later i was on highway and it overheated again. I went back few days later and they said my radiator had a crack and they replaced it. So i am guessing the connected positive terminal was incorrect when they put on the thermostat. IDK

 

Not sure if there are differences between the coupe and sedan but here's what my '06 coupe battery compartment looks like.

 

I'm wondering where the two wires go after that ugly splice point they added on the negative cable? I'm guessing one goes to the chassis ground location (last pic I posted, terminates on a 2-bolt lug attached to the chassis next to the battery).

I need to you identify EXACTLY which part of the fusable link is tripping, point to it with something non-conductive like an ink pen and snap a photo please.

Also, if you're getting a screaming deal on the mechanic work and it's the only real option right now I understand but they are BUTCHERING your vehicle with the work they're performing. Things like relocating the IPDM (fuse box next to the battery) and the odd ground splice will only cause problems in the future. If there is a Nissan dealership nearby it would be worth the time spent on the phone to get prices on their diagnostic fee (telling you what's wrong with the car but not actually FIXING the issue). Nissan isn't really that expensive comparatively but you will be getting factory quality work that won't leave you with bigger problems to deal with.

 

The fuse right next to positive battery terminal Also compared to your photo the cable is not hooked on the same terminal as yours

 

I apologize that I am at work trying to do this on my phone and I haven't been able to get on my computer except early this morning

 

The forums are really great to use with a phone as well, you can upload picture you take with the phone and place them directly in the message body, my previous post was done entirely from my phone

EDIT: If you're tripping the 120 amp primary fuse I would definitely check the primary positive power cable, it goes to the starter, look for contact on the headers or anywhere that's rubbing.

Does it blow immediately when you plug the battery back in? Can you start the vehicle? Need more details about exactly WHEN the fuse blows.

 

Once I put new fuse link in I am able to drive around town ( 30 miles) then it blows , but like I said I assembled cables like the way it came back from shop last time , so last night I put cable connectors like your car to fusible link and it started and it's home now .

some reason my phone won't upload on the site

 

Actually... after more closely inspecting your picture I think you may have a DAMAGED fusible link holder, I'm not sure if it's a trick of the light or not though, on your fuse holder where the primary power cable attaches the top part of the mounting stud appears to have been arced out, it looks slightly melted and also appears to be carbon scoring on the surrounding area. Also, the copper metal base that the wire makes contact looks like it has heat damage (copper turns an orangish/red color when overheated) that spreads to the secondary stud and the fuse holder body-to-battery lug has the same damage.

I would unplug from the battery, take off all the bolts on the fuse holder, use a wire brush to clean everything back to SHINY metal, and apply a light coating of electrical de-ox (anti-oxidation grease available at any auto parts house or electrical supply house) to all places where metal meets metal and reassemble.

Inspect the components for any loose connections, if everything isn't tight it can cause arcing between the metal parts which might be contributing to the fuse blowing.

 

Does the fuse ever trip WHILE you are driving or is it always after you've stopped the engine and are parked?

 

That holder is a day old bought from Nissan dealer in sealed box . I loaded that photo to show you that is what is blowing

 

only after I turn off car and go into store and try to start , like I said it takes about week to blow , can you look at first photo I uploaded this morning ?