So I was driving pretty agressively today and all of sudden the rpm kinda started vibrating , the engine lost all power and slowly shut down . I had to tow the car away . It's a g37 6mt . When I try to start it it cranks or but it won't start . The battery is good because everything powers on and it cranks . But it just won't start . I popped the hood and found out there's no coolant in the reservoir but to my knowledge the car never over heats. Can anyone help me with this ?

 

Lol never overheats.

Anything mechanical has a chance of failure if not properly maintained.

Do you have any service lights on the dash? Did the temp gauge show a high temp?

 

There is a check engine light but that's because of the test pipes. I took it to a mechanic and there's is a crank shaft position sensor light. We just put in a new sensor and it's still not starting yet. As for the maintenance the car has always been maintained well just this time the coolant in the reservoir was empty somehow. I popped the the main coolant cap and there's coolant in there . And no the temp gauge didn't show a high temperature. Thank you for replying.

 

Probably still the crank sensor, these cars don't play nice with aftermarket ones, use only a Hitachi (OEM supplier) or a Genuine Nissan Parts sensor.

 

Hey so the mechanic is telling me the ecu isn't sending a command to the spark plugs to spark . Everything else is fine just won't start it cranks. Any ideas on what it could be ?

 

Bump for moral support

 

Bump for moral support X2

 

Ok so here's how the system works.

Turn the key to START
ECM sends signal via CANBUS to the IPDM to close the start relay
Starter turns the motor
Fuel pump relay closes

At the same time:

The BCM verifies that the key transponder matches what's in it's programming (NATS/IVIS security stuff) if it does NOT match it turns on the red indicator on the dash.
If it DOES match then it sends the signal to the ECM that NATS/IVIS is good
ECM then looks for the signals being sent back from the crank sensor (CKP) and both cam sensors (CMP) or if you have the revup or HR/VHR motor then it's FOUR CMP sensors.
ECM takes the data from those sensors and determines EXACTLY when to open each coil pack and each injector.

If the ECM is missing a signal from any CKP or CMP then it WILL NOT fire spark or open injectors.
If the ECM does not get a NATS good signal then it will NOT fire spark or fuel. If this is the case you have a solid red NATS indicator light on the left side of the dash while you are cranking the engine.

 

Hey so I took it to the dealership and had them perform a diagnosis. However they're diagnosis was the same as my mechanic but it cost me a lot and then they asked for 600$ to complete the diagnostic. They said they needed to perform a timing test , fuel pump pressure test and compression test . The fuel pump pressure test was already performed with my mechanic. Does anyone think compression test and timing test should be done or could be the issue? Any other ideas of what it could be

 

My car just started to do this very thing 2 days ago and I am stumped...
During the last set of key turns there was a small rumble like the engine was going to fire up
and a smell of fuel and combustion but since that last gasp the 35 has been DOA.

went looking for relays as my high beams are our out and man I am finding how hard it is to
find the M12 relays... I see recall relays that "look" like the M12's but they seems to be M36
relays...

but I swap the working headlight relay with the ECU relay still no go.

So for now I have a 3500lb + paper weight.

I do know that the owner before me had put in some duralast crank sensors in...I will gets some OEM units..]
If I get this car going again... I will e sure to come back an post my findings for others...

 

ever fix it??

 

Hey there Slougee99,

Yeah I was able to fix this... it was crazy... so when I made this post I had just got the car and was ver new to it and all the things that come with owning a 35 coupe.
In the case where the car when from working to not work... it turned out that when I moved the car out of the workshop, I did not replace the water protection that
sits between the windscreen and the hood. Water got down into the IDPM module and flooded the compartment. The day before everything stopped working I had gone through a car wash and the following day it rained. Not realizing that the black plastic was functional I allowed water to destroy that unit.

I looked online and found a used unit for the car and plugged it in and the car has been tip top everysense.

So check that fuse unit and look for anykind of moisture or eveidence of moisture. My had gooped on dielectric grease on it. My assumption is that the owers before had issues down there before I got i got the car because the top cover was missing aswell as the battery cover. I have replaced all that stuff with new pieces and put dialectric grease in the key area.

The only other time I had a no start since was when the chip fell out of my key. ( got lucky on that one) but if you are having starting problems be sure to make sure that light on the dash (the red blinking lihgt on the left side of the dash) is not blinking when you try to start... If it is that means your car is not seeing the RFID chip that is embedded in the key.

Good luck. If you have any more questions feel free to ping me or ask here.

 

what was the part you replaced thst got wet? How much also? I truely beileve this is my issue also as water was getting down under my battery and connections recently. Thank you bery much!

 

Hey there this is the unit they called an IDPM... its just a modular fuse box. this is on the right side of the car under the battery cover in the same hole as the battery. This unit is inside a black box of its own..

This the location of the box in the 2door coupe.. not sure about the 4 door version of the car. You have to get the right one.. meaning that the coupe's IPDM is not interchangeable with the 4 door.I also think its best to get one that is the same year as your car. So for example I have a 2005 G35 Sport Manual so that was the box I looked for.

I found a replacement on Ebay

https://www.ebay.com/p/5011613042

Ebay search for Coupe IPDM

Just got to ebay and enter your cars year and type and you will see various junkyard offering the part. $180 is what I a seeing.
When I got mine it was like 95$ to 130$ at the time... looks like prices have gone up...(greedy junkyards)

If water is getting in your battery box you have to mitigate that. make sure you IPDM is in that black box and that box has its top.
Also make sure you have the battery hole cover on ans make sure the area on the windscreen has all that plastic is in place.

Finally make sure you have that long foam piece that spans across the engine bay from the right to left side that fits over the raised area at the back of the engine bay... it goes from the battery box all the way to the other side of the bay... it helps form a seal that routes water away from the engine bay.

99$ https://www.asolutionsauto.com/produ...x-284b7aq01b-1
here is the full IPDM with case

 

Thank you very much sir!