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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 08:57 PM
  #1  
Y0shi's Avatar
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G35x
New member, need a bit of help

Hey everyone, new here, just bought a 06 g35x, and i have a few issues with it
It has 170k miles on it, has the known issues like the auto stick barely working, the fuel gauge not working, and the odometer light half out, but my rpm needle jerks around too, and i have to replace the driver compression rod. I think ill enjoy it but i have to figure out how to replace the front driver xenon lol
Thanks appreciate it
 
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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 04:00 PM
  #2  
FrankenG's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2018
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From: North Texas
AT-MT swap Coupe
Hi, the fuel gauge not working properly is mostly likely caused by either the 2 fuel sensors in the tank or the cluster itself. About 6 months ago I took my G to my mechanic and had the sensors(the tank is saddle shaped so there is one for each side) changed. It cost me around $700 and the gauge still reads incorrectly. You might be able to kill 3 birds with one stone by replacing the cluster. There is a possibility that it will fix the lights(for sure), the tachometer and the fuel gauge. Note: this is based of my 05 coupe so there may be some slight differences I am unaware of like the fuel tank sensors. Hope this helps
 
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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 09:08 PM
  #3  
andrewl_v35's Avatar
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From: SoCal
04.5 G35 Sedan 5AT
Yeah, sometimes the fuel gauge issue is caused by resistors burning out in the back of the instrument cluster.
Apparently manual mode not functioning can also be an issue with the cluster. There are switches inside the shifter assembly that can stick or not make good contact. I've heard that people can try disconnecting/removing the cluster and trying manual mode.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 10:09 PM
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FrankenG's Avatar
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From: North Texas
AT-MT swap Coupe
In regards to the transmission here is what someone told me awhile back:

"I have this problem as well, even with a brand new transmission and shift assembly with 7k or so on them, cleaned all my grounds as well (gonna check fluid soon). I have suspicions that it's temperature related; I'll have more luck downshifting driving aggressively at high speeds than puttering around town, most likely due to increased air flow (car also seems more compliant with downshifting when the transmission is cold/cooler).
For you though, check your grounds (main ones are three on the timing chain cover and one below the coolant reservoir, I think there is one in the battery compartment as well), check your fluid levels, and check if something is messed up in the shift assembly (remove shift ****, remove shift cover, check the wires/switches). Worst case scenario is that something in the valve body is going kaput, which is what tipped me off when my transmission ate itself.
Sometimes this transmission just doesn't want to play nicely."

Removing the cluster seems to help some people, however these checks are an easy place to start.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2020 | 06:44 PM
  #5  
Y0shi's Avatar
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Thanks, im already looking into the cluster replacment, and a small update on the auto stick, it works if you put it in right when the car starts, otherwise it rarely doesSo far as i can check atm all the grounds are fine, all the fluid levels are fine but most likely due for a change, and im currently unable to properly test the cluster removal test due to time, but i will def try it when i can
thanks
 
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