What�s up everyone. I�m new member. Bought my G35 couple couple months ago. Love the car just been having several issues with it. Hoping this is where I�ll find the help I need.

 

Welcome to the forums, when searching for answers to your issues a google search with "g35driver.com" added to the search will display results from this site.

By far the quickest way to pull up threads about specific issues, the built-in search tool leaves much to be desired

If you're still having issues finding answers don't hesitate to make a new thread (in the appropriate sub-forum) or just ask here in this thread and folks will usually direct you off to the answer.

 

Welcome and congratulations on G35! There's an amazing community of owners and vendors here. Feel free to reach out if you ever needed anything.

 

I�m having a hard time getting the air pockets out of the cooling system. Just replaced the thermostat and radiator. I could use any help you guys can give

 

Air trapped is a common problem with the G35, I've switched over to using an airvac system to draw it down to a strong vacuum then suck the coolant back in.

The biggest culprit for trapping air is adding coolant TOO FAST, first remove the air purge screw from the heater hose, then start adding coolant about as slow as you possible can, at a rate of less than 1 gallon per minute. If you pour it in too fast it traps air.

After coolant starts to spill out of the heater hose air purge put the screw back in and continue to add coolant very very slowly until it's full.

Start the engine, set the heater on maximum heat with maximum fan speed, this will ensure the AC controller opens the heater core valve fully, once the engine is up to temp go for a very short drive, down the road and back and FLOOR IT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE A FEW TIMES. Keep an eye on the temp gauge because the engine might try to overheat, you should hear a gurgle and the heater will suddenly start blowing hot air.

If you can't rip down the road because you're in a residential area then just rev the engine good quite a few times, 6k or so.

Once the heater core is blowing hot air refill the reservoir, cool the radiator off (setting a fan in front of it cools it off in about 10 minutes) then pop the cap and verify you're still full. Now go for a real test drive to get the engine back up to hot.

 

I�ve done everything that you just said except for the revving the engine to 6k rpm. I just revved it to 3.5k and still no hot air. I�ll try doing the 6k. When I refilled it it took me like 20 mins of me pouring the coolant in to fill up. Just trying to make sure not to get crazy amount of air pockets. I haven�t been able to drive my car for about a month now. Miss it

 

Where can you get this vacuum tool that you use?

 

Here's the one I got, pretty straightforward, start with an empty radiator.


Install a male quick disconnect for your air compressor line onto the unit (it doesn't come with one just a plastic plug and you supply your own QD for your hose), then put the correct sized rubber grommet neck into the radiator and tighten, close off the valves, hook it up to your air compressor, open the compressor valve and the venturi sucks your coolant system down to -20psi or so which takes about 15-30 seconds if you have a decently sized compressor (will take longer on a small compressor).

When the system is sucked down close off the air supply valve, stick the filter end of the long hose down into a gallon of coolant and open that other valve, sucks coolant up VERY RAPIDLY so I recommend holding the gallon of coolant so you can feel how much is left, close the valve and swap to another gallon before you suck air.

I do recommend sucking coolant up the tube just until it hits the valve, then shut it back off and vac the system down a second time. That way you aren't losing extra pressure for the volume of air inside that length of hose. Most vehicles it's not a problem but the G has such issues with air you might as well get as much as possible out and not introduce anymore.

I only have to add maybe 2-3 cups of coolant once the system was up to temp and burped out the small remaining pockets of air.

 

So I Got that tool for the coolant vacuum and turns out I have a leak and I can�t PinPoint exactly where it�s it but it�s coming from above the alternator and I�m hoping its not gonna be the water pump. What you think?

 

I think there's a coolant line right there that makes it's way around to the oil cooler (liquid to liquid heat exchanger for the oil cooler that uses engine coolant to cool).

I would get an inspection mirror and a good flashlight, fill the system with coolant, rent a pressure tester, find the leak with the mirror.

 

That�s the thing I did exactly what you said and couldn�t find where the leak was. I know it�s right above the alternator cause you can see the coolant coming down the engine block but for the life of me couldn�t find where the leak was starting. But I went ahead and ordered the water pump and timing chain tensioner and guides. Hoping this will fix it

 

The alternator mounts on the passenger (right) side of the engine, the water pump is on the driver (left) side of the engine. If you're leaking coolant on the right side of the engine it's definitely not the water pump.

Did you actually use an inspection mirror? Typically you can reach them around to any angle and are able to look at literally EVERYTHING and able to see exactly where stuff is dripping.

Just to add more information exactly what vehicle do you have, DE or HR engine (one intake or two intakes). If it's an HR engine you will probably need to remove the right side intake tube to be able to see around to the passenger side of the engine.

 

My apologies meant to say the ac compressor not the alternator. I have the single intake system and I�ve removed that and used the mirror to try and see but wasn�t successful

 

Ok there's a little hole in the block just outside the water pump that's the weep hole, you can definitely see coolant coming from it with an inspection mirror.

 

So if coolant is coming from that area then it�s safe to say the water pump needs replacing