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I took my 2007 G35 in for the gas gauge issues I've read here. My issue is identical. Dealer replaced fuel level senders and vent control. Still have the problem. Now they want to replace the instrument cluster. To the tune of $2000. Has anyone found this to correct the problem?
Thanks for the help.
I took my 2007 G35 in for the gas gauge issues I've read here. My issue is identical. Dealer replaced fuel level senders and vent control. Still have the problem. Now they want to replace the instrument cluster. To the tune of $2000. Has anyone found this to correct the problem?
Thanks for the help.
Yes, the cluster could be the problem, and has been for many other members experiencing fuel gauge issues. I am actually repairing my cluster at the moment but mine is a manumatic issue. If u are handy with a soldering iron you should be able to do it yourself.
Check out this thread. Look at post #72. Theres your fix!
My miles reads inaccurate and fluctuates at its own digression. I literally just put 10$ right now.I cleaned both sending units in the backseat and on my driver side one looked like the sensor has been fried or damaged when i cleaned it off with a q tip. Does anyone know if replacing my the driver side sending fuel unit will fix my gas Gas gauge after putting in 10$
Use a digital multimeter to see if the sending unit is putting out the correct resistance. That's how you test it.
Main fuel pump the resistance scales from 80 ohms empty (float at the bottom) to 3 ohms full (float at the top). If you remove the pump you can just work it by hand while the DMM stays plugged in to read resistance.
Sub pump reads 43 ohms empty to 3 ohms full.
Then you will know for sure if the main and sub floats are sending the correct signal back to the dash.
As for cleaning those contact strips on the main and sub, I like to use a #2 pencil, just gently rub the lead of the pencil across the contact strips and it will remove all that corrosion, I haven't had much luck with qtips and alcohol or anything, needs something slightly abrasive to actually wear off the corrosion and the graphite from a #2 pencil is perfect. Just don't use a perfectly sharpened pointy pencil or it can catch on those metal strips, round off the tip of the pencil lead a little so it's smoother. Make sure to wipe off the graphite dust when you're done.
Use a digital multimeter to see if the sending unit is putting out the correct resistance. That's how you test it.
Main fuel pump the resistance scales from 80 ohms empty (float at the bottom) to 3 ohms full (float at the top). If you remove the pump you can just work it by hand while the DMM stays plugged in to read resistance.
Sub pump reads 43 ohms empty to 3 ohms full.
Then you will know for sure if the main and sub floats are sending the correct signal back to the dash.
As for cleaning those contact strips on the main and sub, I like to use a #2 pencil, just gently rub the lead of the pencil across the contact strips and it will remove all that corrosion, I haven't had much luck with qtips and alcohol or anything, needs something slightly abrasive to actually wear off the corrosion and the graphite from a #2 pencil is perfect. Just don't use a perfectly sharpened pointy pencil or it can catch on those metal strips, round off the tip of the pencil lead a little so it's smoother. Make sure to wipe off the graphite dust when you're done.
Does the resistance scale correctly when you move the float arm? That one is the sub pump.
Idk what you mean. If you mean the needle then yes. I literally ran out of gas in front of my house after putting 10$ In thursday at 5:25pm and only driving about 10 miles. I really have no idea how much gas i have since my fuel gauge still read blank ***** after putting 10$. If my mpg really is that bad. Could it be faulty fuel pump or fuel injector pumping too much gas into the engine? Idk because when my car is in “acc” mode you hear the fuel pump priming so i do t think its that or is my oxygen sensor getting old ? I have no check engine light so im trying to rule out any reasoning for my terrible mpg. I admit i do occasionally floor it or idle sometimes longer than I should i know waste gas but 10$ should at least give me 2 gallons which compared to approximately 16mpg we get that should be 32 gallons i should’ve had.
Last edited by vaultboy; Jan 29, 2022 at 03:31 PM.
Reason: Typo
No I mean back on post 5 where I was talking about how to use a multimeter to measure resistance (ohms) to actually verify the float arm is sending the correct signal.
With the sub pump unplugged and removed, put a test lead from the DMM onto each of the two wires (there's only two wires in that harness for the sub), now watch the resistance reading on the DMM as you move the float arm to the full and empty positions. Does the resistance scale properly as I described in that previous post?
If it does then check the primary pump, same thing, disconnect and remove from the tank, this time you need to put the test lead probes on pins 2 and 5 of the pump while you move the float arm.
Your fuel consumption has nothing to do with injectors or fuel pump, you simply ran out of gas is all. City driving you're probably not getting 16mpg, spirited driving I'm more like 12-13 but I've been as low as single digit. Heck I only get 21 on the highway in a BEST CASE SCENARIO.
No I mean back on post 5 where I was talking about how to use a multimeter to measure resistance (ohms) to actually verify the float arm is sending the correct signal.
With the sub pump unplugged and removed, put a test lead from the DMM onto each of the two wires (there's only two wires in that harness for the sub), now watch the resistance reading on the DMM as you move the float arm to the full and empty positions. Does the resistance scale properly as I described in that previous post?
If it does then check the primary pump, same thing, disconnect and remove from the tank, this time you need to put the test lead probes on pins 2 and 5 of the pump while you move the float arm.
Your fuel consumption has nothing to do with injectors or fuel pump, you simply ran out of gas is all. City driving you're probably not getting 16mpg, spirited driving I'm more like 12-13 but I've been as low as single digit. Heck I only get 21 on the highway in a BEST CASE SCENARIO.
okay i get you. I will have to purchase a DMM at my local autozone. So how much mpg do you get city driving normal ? Just curious and im at a quarter tank and instead of approximately 60 it’s reading 36 but fluctuates up and down. I’ll update you when i purchase the DMM and test my wires
So i just got a check engine light for P0463 code “fuel level sensor a circuit high” im curious on which one has to be replaced. The whole fuel pump assembly (passenger) or the fuel sending unit side Also can you tell me what that code about the brakes mean. I did change my front brake pads last week with a friend.
(driver) I still need to buy a digital multimeter i seen one at harbor freight for cheap i will purchase soon.
gas gauge
