Official NorCal G car picture share!
wow patrick your car turned out great, everytime i see it, it getss better and better, i remember it on the meet when it was basically stock, big difference from then-to-now, good job,
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 104
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From: San Rafael
I was in SF and decided to do a quick photoshoot. Wanna go back to take better pics though.
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Any suggestions to improve? Not really a photographer and the glare was annoying me.
Show moreShow moreShow moreShow moreShow moreShow moreShow moreShow moreShow moreShow moreShow moreShow moreShow moreAny suggestions to improve? Not really a photographer and the glare was annoying me.
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iTrader: (7)
I think majority of them are overexposed.... what equipment are you using? what time are you shooting? The hours when the sun is high in the sky are not the best time to be shooting because of the unflattering light
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: San Rafael
Im using a D40x with a sigma lens 3.5-5.6 with a polarizing filter. I was trying to get rid of the overexposure by playing around with the polarizing filter. And we were shooting around...4-5
Registered User
iTrader: (7)
Ouch... Try the lowest ISO you can go and also smaller F stops.
This might help:
This might help:
D70 huh? Ah, my old camera.
ISO button is easy, you hold it down and look at the little LCD in the corner (not the screen on the back, the one on the top/right)
It will show your ISO, and you just spin the thumb wheel on the right to change it up or down.
As far as shooting goes, normally I like to shoot in aperture priority mode. That's the A on the dial.
The display (as well as the one in the view finder) will show:
A (then some other number like 250) F (another number like 5.6)
The A means you're in aperture priority, the first number right after the A is the shutter speed in fractions of a second.
So if it says 250 that's 1/250th of a second. 60=1/60th, 2 = 1/2, etc...
Note: if it has a " mark beside it, like 1.3" that means seconds instead of fractions of a second, so 5" means 5 seconds.
The 2nd number after the F is the aperture.
With this number, the larger the number the smaller the aperture, and the less light makes it into the lens.
This means that F4 will have a larger aperture and let in more light than F8 for example, so at F4 your shutter speed will automatically adjust to be faster than it will at F8.
The other thing the aperture affects is depth of field (DOF) meaning how far from the point of focus before things start to blur.
Here's a great example:
The image on top is what you would get from a very small aperture, like f9
The image on bottom would be a larger aperture, something more like f2.8 or f3.5.
When shopping lenses, you'll see their largest aperture in the specs.
Your lens, if I'm not mistaken, is an 18-70mm 3.5-4.5, right? That means that at 18mm the largest aperture is f3.5 and as you zoom out, it goes down to f4.5
Whereas other lenses like the big fancy Nikon 70-200 VRII are 2.8 lenses, meaning it can go all the way to a f2.8 aperture ALL THE WAY through it's entire zoom, from 70mm-200mm
One lens you might look into (personally, I think no photographer's bag is complete without one) is a "prime" of some sort.
A prime lens has no zoom, it's fixed at a certain mm, normally 24, 35, 50 or 85 (though there are others) so if you need to "zoom" in or out, your only option is to walk closer or farther away.
That may sound like an inconvenience, but the up-shot is that these lenses are normally very sharp, have much fewer moving parts, which makes them light and cheap, and allows for a MUCH larger aperture.
For example, a 50mm Nikkor f1.8 can be had for under $150 new. I got mine for $80 used. And it's a fantastic little lens with great bokeh. For example, here's some shots I took with a similar lens (50mm f1.4) with the aperture all the way open at f1.4, you'll get very similar results out of the 1.8: https://g35driver.com/forums/photogr...s-welcome.html
If you have any other questions, just let me know.
ISO button is easy, you hold it down and look at the little LCD in the corner (not the screen on the back, the one on the top/right)
It will show your ISO, and you just spin the thumb wheel on the right to change it up or down.
As far as shooting goes, normally I like to shoot in aperture priority mode. That's the A on the dial.
The display (as well as the one in the view finder) will show:
A (then some other number like 250) F (another number like 5.6)
The A means you're in aperture priority, the first number right after the A is the shutter speed in fractions of a second.
So if it says 250 that's 1/250th of a second. 60=1/60th, 2 = 1/2, etc...
Note: if it has a " mark beside it, like 1.3" that means seconds instead of fractions of a second, so 5" means 5 seconds.
The 2nd number after the F is the aperture.
With this number, the larger the number the smaller the aperture, and the less light makes it into the lens.
This means that F4 will have a larger aperture and let in more light than F8 for example, so at F4 your shutter speed will automatically adjust to be faster than it will at F8.
The other thing the aperture affects is depth of field (DOF) meaning how far from the point of focus before things start to blur.
Here's a great example:
The image on top is what you would get from a very small aperture, like f9
The image on bottom would be a larger aperture, something more like f2.8 or f3.5.
When shopping lenses, you'll see their largest aperture in the specs.
Your lens, if I'm not mistaken, is an 18-70mm 3.5-4.5, right? That means that at 18mm the largest aperture is f3.5 and as you zoom out, it goes down to f4.5
Whereas other lenses like the big fancy Nikon 70-200 VRII are 2.8 lenses, meaning it can go all the way to a f2.8 aperture ALL THE WAY through it's entire zoom, from 70mm-200mm
One lens you might look into (personally, I think no photographer's bag is complete without one) is a "prime" of some sort.
A prime lens has no zoom, it's fixed at a certain mm, normally 24, 35, 50 or 85 (though there are others) so if you need to "zoom" in or out, your only option is to walk closer or farther away.
That may sound like an inconvenience, but the up-shot is that these lenses are normally very sharp, have much fewer moving parts, which makes them light and cheap, and allows for a MUCH larger aperture.
For example, a 50mm Nikkor f1.8 can be had for under $150 new. I got mine for $80 used. And it's a fantastic little lens with great bokeh. For example, here's some shots I took with a similar lens (50mm f1.4) with the aperture all the way open at f1.4, you'll get very similar results out of the 1.8: https://g35driver.com/forums/photogr...s-welcome.html
If you have any other questions, just let me know.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: San Rafael
^ thanks for the help. When I got home and saw the metadata i was wondering how come i didnt notice the iso being so high. Shouldve put it on 100. Maybe its cuz I havent been shooting for a while and need to get back in the habit of shooting
I'd say shoot later in the day when you have better light.
Or on a cloudy day, you can actually get some surprisingly good shots of a red car on a cloudy day, plus the softer light will eliminate your glare issues.
As for ISO, shoot on 200, IIRC that's native for the 40.
You can go lower if it will, but just be aware that going lower than the cameras native ISO can also introduce noise. Your better bet would be to use a ND if needed, but the shutter should be able to fire fast enough at ISO 200 to get your exposure right, especially if you're behind a CPL
I can't see the EXIF, what shutter speeds were those shots?
Or on a cloudy day, you can actually get some surprisingly good shots of a red car on a cloudy day, plus the softer light will eliminate your glare issues.
As for ISO, shoot on 200, IIRC that's native for the 40.
You can go lower if it will, but just be aware that going lower than the cameras native ISO can also introduce noise. Your better bet would be to use a ND if needed, but the shutter should be able to fire fast enough at ISO 200 to get your exposure right, especially if you're behind a CPL
I can't see the EXIF, what shutter speeds were those shots?
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: San Rafael
I'd say shoot later in the day when you have better light.
Or on a cloudy day, you can actually get some surprisingly good shots of a red car on a cloudy day, plus the softer light will eliminate your glare issues.
As for ISO, shoot on 200, IIRC that's native for the 40.
You can go lower if it will, but just be aware that going lower than the cameras native ISO can also introduce noise. Your better bet would be to use a ND if needed, but the shutter should be able to fire fast enough at ISO 200 to get your exposure right, especially if you're behind a CPL
I can't see the EXIF, what shutter speeds were those shots?
Or on a cloudy day, you can actually get some surprisingly good shots of a red car on a cloudy day, plus the softer light will eliminate your glare issues.
As for ISO, shoot on 200, IIRC that's native for the 40.
You can go lower if it will, but just be aware that going lower than the cameras native ISO can also introduce noise. Your better bet would be to use a ND if needed, but the shutter should be able to fire fast enough at ISO 200 to get your exposure right, especially if you're behind a CPL
I can't see the EXIF, what shutter speeds were those shots?