Wasn't NYQUEENS running a 305...lemme look around brb lol

Closest I got Conrad...


https://g35driver.com/forums/wheels-...ide-rim-2.html

^ thank you so much

I found a few threads of ppl running 305 on mid-teen offset 10.5 rears, but most of the pics are either from like 30 feet away (?), or the pics are no longer working...

It will look pretty sheetty to run the 305/30/19s rears and the 245/35/19s on the 9.5 fronts. But the fronts are new so I'll use it up for a while

What should I run on the fronts to look appropirate with the 305/30/19 rears? I guess 275/35/19s?? or 265s? I'm lost!

Thanks
Conrado

Just in a logical ratio my guess would be 275, but that's HUGE I'll see if one of the offset gurus have done a meaty setup before...

yeah going up 30mm from the 275 to 305 would mean that the 245 would go to 275 but dayum marshmallow stance

Mid-teen offsets on a 10.5 with a tire that big will require some fender work (pull). If you're having that much trouble with traction (I don't know what you're running btw) I'd recommend looking at what tires you're using or if it's a suspension related problem.

Edit: Or negative camber in the -3 (or more negative) range to work with less of a pull. But if straight line / launch traction is what you're missing that's not going to help you.

He's about to leave the VQ fam...but he'll still look good in the family photos

^ Obsessed, Jookyshank is correct, the reason I need more traction is not due to improper suspension ( I have bc coilovers, sway bars, camber arms), but due to the low end torque that I'll have to deal with once I do the LS swap

I found some pics of 305's on the Volk GTSs.
By the end most ppl are running 255/35/19s with their 305/30/19 rears

The suspension setup is more important to traction than what parts you're using. You can have the best parts in the world installed and still get no traction at all if everything isn't dialed in to work together. Not saying that's happening in your case, just saying there's a lot more to it than the sum of the parts

I'm definitely not telling you that you shouldn't run 305s, by all means if you want 'em go for it! It'll look great and should help you hold traction. Just wanted to remind you (or others that may run across this in the future) that there are other things you should work on as well, that in addition to tires, will also help

No worries

Forgot to mention, but I'm running 2 degree of camber in the back which is pretty conservative.

What other variables do you mean? Other than the items I mentioned, along with a set of good performance summer tires with plenty of thread, what else is there?

There's a lot of stuff moving around down there and any time you change one item or setting everything else will move also. Sometimes it's a proportional movement, sometimes it's minor. Damping and Preload will have a lot to do with traction, on the rear axle. Softer is better, too soft is no better than too stiff though. If you have adjustable end links then the sway bars may be hurting you if they're not installed correctly (uneven length will cause the swaybar to be pre-loaded rather than being neutral and assisting handling). For straight line launches you typically want to run on the softer side but of course you'll sacrifice a bit in the corners, there's a happy medium in there but no perfect for all scenarios setup that I know of. A good corner balance will help just to make sure what you've got already isn't fighting itself..

For future consideration there's a lot more you can do down the road that may help you. Differential bracing (Injected Performance, for instance) and solid / upgraded diff bushings will help launches. There are also adjustable traction links that will help change how the car performs off the line. SPL also makes adjustable (somewhat anyway) subframe bushings that will add to, or reduce, squat depending on which shims are installed with them.

2-3 degrees of camber is ideal for handling on a road course / auto-cross course, but launches will obviously suffer slightly as a result. Toe will also have a big part in it too. If you are hitting road courses a little toe out might actually be helpful, launching you'll want zero / even toe in the rear, and of course a little toe in is the norm for street driving setups. There's really an almost endless set of possibilities. Experiment with all of it and see what you like. Check out the Making it Stick article series (6 part series if I remember right) on Modified Magazine's site. The articles are a few years old but all of the basics still hold true, and they use a Z for a number of their examples / diagrams.

http://www.modified.com/sch/02/makin...tick/articles/

Polished faced GTS's…..so sexy

driving casually on the freeway when a wild corvette appears

found out it also goes to the same shop I go to

I just bought wheels and i'm going to have 285 in the back..would I need a rear camber kit for them? did any of you need the rear camber kit to adjust the camber for an alignment?

^dude u need to do some research on suspension wheel offsets prior to doing that to us.
We have no idea if the wheels/tires will fit w.o you giving offsets, if you're lowered, etc. And yes you need a camber kit to adjust camber unless its such a mild camber that would barely differ from the oem specs that already have if im not mistaken 2 degrees of it.