Now that the car is out of warrantee and don't have the dealer service it anymore, I wanted to make changing oil easier. This relocation kit is pretty nice as all I have to do is snip some tie wraps and pull it up and out instead of crawling under and taking off the cover.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...14813_-1_10467


It also allows the use of a huge filter that must have 3X the surface area of the stock one and increases oil capacity about 3/4 qt. With the 5W/40 turbo diesel oil and pureone filter, I bet I could go 20000 miles on a change.

I'll do an analysis at 10K just to see where it is, but it should be capable of at least 15K with filtration like that.
Recommended for turbo/supercharged applications as the high oil flow is a good thing.

 

Why use the oil designated for diesels?

 

^+1. what makes you want to use diesel oil? and 20k miles, are you serious?

 

I thought about a Remote Mount kit as well. Does the standard single mount kit ($45.99) work without any other adapters?

I see you zip tied it beside the power steering reservoir. Would you be able to just mount it below the coolant overflow tank. That way, it's just one bolt to remove for the tank to get to, and it would look a bit neater.

It says it now uses a Fram PH8A or equivalent, so I'm assuming you could use a K&N HP-3001 or Mobil One M1301?

 

I just called Jegs, and they told me that they don't have an application listed for the G or Z. Did you just use the standard 771-10695 Single Mount Kit ?

TIA

 

Totally serious. Long-haul truck/fleet operators go 150-175K miles on one oil change using the Delvac1/Turbo diesel oils. Their sumps hold 10 gallons, but if you do the math, you can see how this oil could go that long easily on a gas motor without the soot load. Combined with 3X the OEM filtering area, its almost a sure thing.

The Delvac1/Turbo diesel Mobil 1 is a true group IV synthetic base stock with a TBN of 12, so it is basically built to be an extreme performance/endurance oil. It is far superior to the extended performance in additive level and content. And it is SL rated for gasoline engines. If more people knew about how good this stuff is, nobody would pay the extra money for the extended performance (which is no longer even group IV).

Like I said, warrantee is over, so extended drains can now happen without dealer bickering.

 

I looked into a better place for this, but its pretty cramped in there. I did this mainly for the extra filter size, so I thought about mounting it on the engine crossbrace down below (driver side) above the cover. But then I thought how nice it would be to just grab it from above. The coolant resv. may work, but its still really tight. Zipties dont look so good, but I'm the only one who looks in there anyway.

Any filter cross referenced to the PH8A will work (3/4-16 thread). The PureOne is what I always use, so the 30001 was the equiv. of the PH8A. And yes, I bought the single-mount universal kit. There are about 5 different adapter threads in the kit that mount the block screw-on piece. You just have to find the M20x1.5 one and it threads right onto the motor. Good luck.

 

A good rule of thumb is for every quart you increase the sump capacity you can add some percentage to 3,750/7500 miles..........how bmw/MB with 8 quarts and synthetics get 10,000 mile change intervals.

Lots of difference between 1 gallon and 10 gallons of oil........the filter won't help microscopic particles nor the depletion of additives nor fuel dilution [viscosity changes] past the rings.

Depends on how long you want the engine to last.

 

How does oil age affect it's life? Do the BMW/MBs get 1 year change intervals or every 6 months?

 

Thanks, I'll look into it.

I'd love to be able to just open my Fumoto valve to drain the oil, and not have to remove the cover each time to remove the filter. Also, if you orient the filter so the open end is up when you remove it, there would be minimal drip and mess.

 

I wonder if it could go anywhere else. My catch can is mounted right there.

 

Like I said in my original post, I plan to analyze at 10K to see what condition the oil is in. But I have no doubt it will be fine because Blackstone labs said my regular Mobil1 was in great shape at 9K last time (TBN of 3.6) with wear metals all in range.

Yes, big difference between 1 gallon and 10, but also a big difference between 150K and 20K miles. The miles per unit volume is being reduced proportionately. Also, the PureOne is rated at 99.8% effieciency @ 30 microns and 99.2% at 20 microns. Most internal clearances are 25-50 microns, so the engine doesn't care about anything more "microscopic" than that. And I just found out that the OEM Denso/Toyo Roki filter has 93 sq. in of filter media where the 30001 PuroOne has 400 sq. in.! So not 3X the filter area, but 4.25X. If the OEM can go 7500 miles during regular service, logic would say this one could go 31875 miles.

As far as fuel dilution/blowby, the VQ doesn't burn fuel oil and create soot. It also doesn't have a 25:1 compression ratio and 5 pound pistons with the giant surface area associated with them. Any oil that is API rated at CI-4 plus is an extreme performance lubricant and is very understressed in a non-turbo VQ.

 

I didnt see any other place that was open. If you are doing this mainly for the larger filter/flow, then it will definitely go along the driver side of the engine crossbrace. You will have to drill 3 holes in it to mount, but it will be very clean, solid, and protected by the lower cover.

The other option is to mount it by the radiator. I kept that spot open, because I plan to mount another one of these filters inline with my transmission cooler line before it goes into the radiator. Should grab all the fines out of the ATF fluid and make the unit last much longer. Should have done this long ago.

 

You cannot say that because a clearance is X filtering to X will protect you.
Inter-atomic and inter-molecular forces attract and the particles clump up and form chains and pyramids................... A good rule of thumb is to filter to 1/5 the minimal clearance.

Unfortunately such a filter will create too much backpressure so the easilest way is to drain old full of tiny particles oil frequently.

If 2/10ths [99.8%] are passed how long does it take to accumulate enough to bridge the clearance gap? A month? A week?

 

I won't speculate or argue the point further. What I do know is that the filter I have now has 4.25X the surface area than the OEM. I like that and I think the engine will too.