I don't have the dyno charts for the worst runs, I will see if I can get a hold of them. As far as the glazing issue, I have had 3 cars with high performance aftermarket clutches and I have never had to worry about a break-in period or any glazing. I still love the package and have no complaints at all. The engaugement is perfect, the power gain is incredible, and it is very easy to drive. They were looking for a low hp test car and I have done a lot of business with them in the past so they asked if I was interested, and of course I said yes. All the 350's and G35's that they have on site have been modded pretty heavily.
Brian

 

I just got my combo today, and they said that the clutch and fly wheel where both good for FI with torque in the 500's

 

hmm....i actually have a stock setup, and i took Meechin's car for a testdrive. he has jwt clutch and UR fly or vice versa, and had NO problem driving it off the start. it was actually easier than stock setup IMO. now i just need the $$

 

How low to the floor does this clutch catch fully compared to stock?

Please comment as I am really trying to find a clutch that is fully engaged much closer to the floor than stock.

 

Well I just got to drive the new Z1 clutch and flywheel setup for mine this morning. It was tough for me to get it going leaving the shop. The clutch is 2-3 times easier to push in than the stock clutch. The shifter seems a little tighter as well, not as loose with the gears. As for power, there is a definite noticble difference when you gun it through the first 4 gears. Although, still a little tougher to take off, this will get easier I bet over the next couple of days. The clutch does engage just a few inches down, but like I said with the clutch being a lot easier to push, I find myself pushing it in a lot farther than it really needs to go.

 

Nice Keep posting to confirm or contradict their claim.

 

Humm......I think we need another opinion.

Russell...I think we should stick one in my car and let me test it with the Vortech.

 

Ok so I have had the Z1 Fly wheel and clutch combo for almost 2 weeks now. I am actually liking it. I can definitly feel a difference in performance, but not enough where if my original clutch had not gone out, I would never buy the combo just to have a new one. IF you have to replace the clutch and flywheel this combo is definitly a good one to go with IMO. It does have the cement mixer sound at idle 50% of the time. Sometimes its louder than others. What do you expect when you get a flywheel over half the weight of the original. One thing that I tend to do now if I am making a turn aand I have to shift down to 2nd is rev a little bt more to get it out of that 2-2500 range, if I have to slow down enough to get into the low 2000 I just ease it into 1st DONT FORCE THIS! If you have been driving a stick for a while you know what I mean.

For the first week though I did smell burning clutch and the shifter was a little stiff, but it loosened up by the 2nd week. The burning smell I believe is the residue of the former clutch dust that did come out when they cleaned out the chamber area. I am also getting used to the higher potential of stalling on take off. Its like driving a new car or another stick. You eventually get used to it.

 

I'm glad that everyone is enjoying their new setups. I just rolled over 6000 miles since my install and it still drives the same as the first day it came home. Only problem is that I have gone thru a set of tires since then due to how much easier it is to spin the tires.
Brian

 

I'm sorry, but I have to pull the BS flag on this one. I'm sure the clutch feels and works great, but theres no way you're gaining 23 hp & 20 tq from a lightweight flywheel.

I know how dyno's work; rest the car for a minute or two, and you magically have 10 more hp.

There's too many factors in these pulls to trully tell if you gained any power from a lightweight flywheel.

Have you previously taken the car to a drag strip? If so, with "23 HP & 20 TQ", you will definately see a significantly higher trap speed than usual, assuming similar conditions.

.

 

I just wanted to let every one know that I had posted something in this thread that was inflammatory to Z1, and had no bearing on this flywheel/clutch discussion. It was petty and uncalled for. I apologize for that, and have since deleted the post.

 

I think people are confusing the difference between genuine horsepower and "horsepower as rated by a rear wheel dyno."

If you think about it, changing a flywheel or clutch can not change the horsepower of an engine. Changing them can affect the amount of horsepower a rear wheel dyno calculates, though. Two different things.

 

I still maintain that that power will not show up on a dyno. I've had my car on te dyno for well over 100 pulls(including tuning pulls). I've had almost 10 different exhaust configurations, almost 10 different intake configurations, pulls when the car was stock, with/without the ecu, with/without my oil catch can, and with/without the JWT flywheel(whch is within one pound of this unit). I've said it many other threads, that all of my bolt-ons with piggyback and tune netted me about 25hp at peak, and almost 40tq at peak. If this flywheel could produce more than 10 measurable horsepower on the dyno, then I'd be making way more than 25hp at peak.

 

well my setup is going and im looking into new clutches. if true that you gain hp from this setup than great. but to those that have the setup is worth replacing oem with? Also how much does labor run for changing clutch and flywheel?

 

I don't think that it is worth changing unless you have 60000+ on your car. It is going to run around $1200-1500 with the install and parts. It is better than stock (other than the flywheel ratttle). It revs a lot better than stock and falls back to idle quicker when you release the gas. You can feel the release of the ponies a little bit if you had other mods. Make sure you do a lot of small changes at once though and you'l get the bigggest change (mrev+spacer+intake+clutch and light weight flywheel+exhaust) Otherwise if you do each piece seperate then you will only have small change, even slightly unnoticable in some cases.