UR Crank Pulley
#31
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Originally Posted by WI_Rick
I am putting the UR pulleys on a 2005 Coupe AT this weekend. I will take pictures and post it in the DIY. The method E_K explained is totally normal for AT cars. My buddies have done it several times. If you on what is going on, it is actually a pretty slick idea. I am surprised the MT guys don't do it to get the crank pulley offf.
Explain what you are thinking here. The 6mt is a very simple install.
D
#32
Since it is an AT - there is a method described by E_K which is described in many posts which uses a break bar wedged against the ground and turning the engine over to loosen the crank pulley bolt. Everyone isn't quite sure what this entails. I will document this as I do it over the weekend to help people out.
#34
thanks sickone.........i will try the simple solution this weekend......and get the two (2) 5 inch hose clamps for the tightening stage........man it looks tight in there! not much room between the fans and the pulleys!
WI Rick.......i hope to be doing my install on saturday afternoon....i'll take pictures as well.......i'll look and see if you get ur pics up first Good Luck!
WI Rick.......i hope to be doing my install on saturday afternoon....i'll take pictures as well.......i'll look and see if you get ur pics up first Good Luck!
#35
Pulley's are in
Well, I finally got the pulley's in the weekend. Not that hard, but harder than I would have liked.
1) The crank pulley bolt came off with NO problems. On simple crank and it broke free.
2) The crank pulley didn't "slide" off as easy as people make it. We had to pull the fan and put us a pulley puller. That was pretty easy, but took longer that it would a second time as I'd never done it.
The Mod itself is great. Seems like the car is pulling a lot harder. I also installed the plenum spacer and K-N filter at the same time. So with those three mods - there was a definite impact.
No more wrenching for a few months now. I think i am going to do the eibach prokit next. Probably follow with an exhaust.
1) The crank pulley bolt came off with NO problems. On simple crank and it broke free.
2) The crank pulley didn't "slide" off as easy as people make it. We had to pull the fan and put us a pulley puller. That was pretty easy, but took longer that it would a second time as I'd never done it.
The Mod itself is great. Seems like the car is pulling a lot harder. I also installed the plenum spacer and K-N filter at the same time. So with those three mods - there was a definite impact.
No more wrenching for a few months now. I think i am going to do the eibach prokit next. Probably follow with an exhaust.
#36
hey rick
did the UR pulley slide on easy?
did you use the hose clamp method to hold the engine when you tightened the bolt?
did you make the 60 degrees when tightening?
how did you tighten the bolt? use the torque wrench for the 30 ft-lbs, then a breaker bar and a cheater to get the 60 degrees? could you lay on the ground and muscle it in there?
did you jack ur car or leave it on the ground?
any tips or tricks i can use (belt tightening?)
sorry about all the questions........my belts did not make it last weekend so i will be doing the install this weekend
thanks! shooter
did the UR pulley slide on easy?
did you use the hose clamp method to hold the engine when you tightened the bolt?
did you make the 60 degrees when tightening?
how did you tighten the bolt? use the torque wrench for the 30 ft-lbs, then a breaker bar and a cheater to get the 60 degrees? could you lay on the ground and muscle it in there?
did you jack ur car or leave it on the ground?
any tips or tricks i can use (belt tightening?)
sorry about all the questions........my belts did not make it last weekend so i will be doing the install this weekend
thanks! shooter
#37
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I performed my install about 1 month ago and had the same issues. The OEM crank pulley did NOT come off easy, but took a bit of convincing. The UR pulley also was a real B1tch to get on, even after putting on the anti seize compound. Regardless, make sure when doing install of the UR pulley and removal of the OEM pulley NOT to pull/push on one side (basically you want to get even amount of force on the pulley all around for both removal and install to avoid burrs/scrapes on the crank). I found the best way to do this was to remove and install the pulley's by placing your hands on the 12 and 6 o clock positions or the 3 and 9 o clock positions (or use the pulley puller).
#38
did the UR pulley slide on easy?
Yes, but it is a tight fit. You just have to feel for the key'ed location and push it in. Once it was started, I used a piece of wood with a hammer to tap it on.
did you use the hose clamp method to hold the engine when you tightened the bolt?
Yes - this isn't too bad. I really wonder if it's needed as the bolt was pretty tight without them.
did you make the 60 degrees when tightening?
Probably not the full 60 degrees - but pretty close. I think the directions should just say "Tighten as tight as possible". The engine actually will self tighten the bolt as you turn the bolt the opposite way as the pulley. In addition, the force on the pulley is 90degrees to the bolt. I would have a hard time believing that the pulley could every come off.
how did you tighten the bolt? use the torque wrench for the 30 ft-lbs, then a breaker bar and a cheater to get the 60 degrees? could you lay on the ground and muscle it in there?
I used a normal 10" socket and then a torque wrench.
did you jack ur car or leave it on the ground?
any tips or tricks i can use (belt tightening?)
I used a small set of jack stands on the front only. This was to help pull get under the car. This was AFTER you pull the crank pulley bolt.
Suggestions:
1: Pull the fan -- it takes about 15 minutes after you know what to do.
a. pull the power air box
b. remove two screws from the fan
c. disconnect the coolant hose - I used a golf ball to plug it. It worked perfectly.
d. disconnect two fan power connectors
e. work fan out
---- makes things a lot easier ----
2: Have a pulley puller ready in case the stock pulley won't slide off as mine would have never come off without it.
Good luck --
Yes, but it is a tight fit. You just have to feel for the key'ed location and push it in. Once it was started, I used a piece of wood with a hammer to tap it on.
did you use the hose clamp method to hold the engine when you tightened the bolt?
Yes - this isn't too bad. I really wonder if it's needed as the bolt was pretty tight without them.
did you make the 60 degrees when tightening?
Probably not the full 60 degrees - but pretty close. I think the directions should just say "Tighten as tight as possible". The engine actually will self tighten the bolt as you turn the bolt the opposite way as the pulley. In addition, the force on the pulley is 90degrees to the bolt. I would have a hard time believing that the pulley could every come off.
how did you tighten the bolt? use the torque wrench for the 30 ft-lbs, then a breaker bar and a cheater to get the 60 degrees? could you lay on the ground and muscle it in there?
I used a normal 10" socket and then a torque wrench.
did you jack ur car or leave it on the ground?
any tips or tricks i can use (belt tightening?)
I used a small set of jack stands on the front only. This was to help pull get under the car. This was AFTER you pull the crank pulley bolt.
Suggestions:
1: Pull the fan -- it takes about 15 minutes after you know what to do.
a. pull the power air box
b. remove two screws from the fan
c. disconnect the coolant hose - I used a golf ball to plug it. It worked perfectly.
d. disconnect two fan power connectors
e. work fan out
---- makes things a lot easier ----
2: Have a pulley puller ready in case the stock pulley won't slide off as mine would have never come off without it.
Good luck --
#39
#40
BTW: After having the pulley on now for about a week, the difference is very noticable. Can't quantify it, but the car definitely pulls harder. In 3rd gear, you can really pull from 30mph to 70mph - I need to get a G-tech or something.
Hmmm... what's next on my list?
I am thinking exhaust and hi-flow cats.
Hmmm... what's next on my list?
I am thinking exhaust and hi-flow cats.
#41
I installed my crank and so-called "water pump" pulleys last night. It took a little over an hour. I decided the alternator pulley was too much trouble, and I'll wait till next time I change the oil.
I have to say that at this point, the difference is noticable, but not as much as I expected. The improvement I got from the 1/2" plenum spacer was definitely more noticable from the get go. After taking the car for a couple of test drives with the pulleys, I decided to reset the ECU. Hopefully, it will improve some as the ECU adjusts.
I have to say that at this point, the difference is noticable, but not as much as I expected. The improvement I got from the 1/2" plenum spacer was definitely more noticable from the get go. After taking the car for a couple of test drives with the pulleys, I decided to reset the ECU. Hopefully, it will improve some as the ECU adjusts.
#42
#43
#45
i only replaced the crank pulley, not the other 2.......but same with me........no ill effects from the crank pulley here (installed at the same time as WI_Rick)......I have close to 900W for my stereo and live in houston.......we have had quite a hot summer here, pushing mid to upper 90s (sometimes over 100) and no problems with the ac.........
great mod! really gives a nice kick!
and i checked the crank pulley bolt lately and it is still tight.....
great mod! really gives a nice kick!
and i checked the crank pulley bolt lately and it is still tight.....