Although this mod is probably the most controversial mod out there, I decided that all the arguments against the pulleys don't really hold water with regards to the VQ engine. That is all I am going to say on that subject

One thing I can verify though, and that is getting the stock pulley off is a real mother****er!! I went through two socket adaptors (as in snapped in half) and maxed out my poor "little" torque wrench (rated at 150ft/lbs). I ended up buying a 3 foot 1/2" wrench and eventually got that sucker when I found some leverage with the street curb and did some leg presses on that beotch. I also had some issues getting the larger belt on even with the tension wheel fully retracted. I ended up having to remove the tension wheel and reinstalling after putting on the belt.

After install and starting her up, I did not notice any more noise or vibration than stock, and it actually feels like the car idles even smoother than before. The car does seem to rev up faster and shift smoother now as well.

Overall this was not a particularly fun install, about the same as doing the cats with ramps (ignoring the broken bolt incident), but it was well worth it for the gains and I would definitely recommend it. I only did the crank pulley as the rest do not seem to be worth the trouble or $$.

 

did the bumper need to come off?
please post install instructions or something to that effect

THANKS!

 

If you have the time I would like to know how you did the install. In more detail

 

No need to remove the bumper, just the plastic underguard. I basically followed the instructions that came with the pulley. Someone on my350 was kind enough to outline them and also include some pics in this thread:

http://my350z.com/forum/showthread.p...threadid=32993

Hope this helps!

 

Did you guys install the underdrive Ultra S or stock diameter pulley Ultra Sc?

I searched around and could not find this discussed...........

thanks!

 

As far as I know UR only offers an underdrive crank pulley for the G/Z.

 

Kinda scary thought that UR Crank Pulley w/o Harmonic dampener ... w/o harmonic damp. will it vibrate more than the stock?

 

WolfsterX: there are about 482 pages of discussion and debate on that subject.

The stock pulley is only partialy/slightly damped. The main core which is the mass of tyhe weight and drive everything except the A/C is solid to the crank. The rear outer portion is slightly damped, and drives the A/C.

It is not the same matter as a fully damped pulley as you find on some engines.

You of course ,must choose for yourself.

 

Mine seems to rev smoother, and all independent oil analysis so far indicates the mod is safe on this engine.

 

i have ordered a ur crank pulley and it should be in on monday.......i didnt realize the pulley i ordered did not include the 2 belts....oreilly has the 445 in stock but has never heard of the 353......i found the belt set on performance nissan for $30, but would like to pick up the belts locally and not have to wait for another shipment (i will call around more parts stores tomorrow)......can anyone comment on where they got these belts?

gates
k060445
k040353

also, i am thinking of paying a shop to install.....i dont have the tools for this job and will have to buy the socket(s), borrow a breaker bar, torque wrench.....although i am mechanically inclined, i dont feel comfortable doing this job alone.....i got a price of $100 for the install.......sounds ok to me ....the shop said they have to raise the radiator to get the impact wrench on the bolt......from what i read, no one here had to do that...any comments?

also, i have read the many threads here on the ur crank pulley (yes including the LONG one) and the LONG thread on 350z.........took an hour or so! lots of emotion and comments flying back and forth.......IMO this mod is safe if installed properly.......but alas this is only my opinion based on the knowledge gained from reading all your posts.....thanks for the time and effort all have put into this topic!

 

There's no real way you can screw up the installation because the pulley is keyed to the crank. The safety issue all falls on whether or not you can live with removing the stock crank damper (ie stock crank pulley).

 

okay okay, i've got a couple of questions, and they may be pretty easy. first off, which way does our engine turn, clockwise or counterclockwise? next, if you unintentionally turn the crank, won't you throw off the timing? excuse my ignorance, i'm used to honda engines and the timing belt pulley is attached to the crank, and if the crank turns, the timing belt turns, turning the cam gears, turning the cams, blah blah blah. i guess i'm jus' havin' a hard time picturing this in my head. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks!

 

bump

 

well, after lookin' at the service manual, the engine turns clockwise (lookin' at the engine from the front). since you turn clockwise to tighten, you won't throw off the timing. you turn it at 60 degree intervals to tighten. tighten to at most 36ft-lbs initially.

i guess for removal, jus' do the easy ghetto way. stick a breaker bar to it, and jog (and i mean jog) the engine a couple of times. since it turns clockwise, as soon as the breaker bar hits something solid (hopefully the asphalt), it'll loosen.

 

There was a thread on this a week or two back.
You will want the breaker bar on the ground before you hit the starter.
You need to talk to Sickone" He knows how to do this.