They sure do look sweet!

 

I've got the entire set on my 05 auto - I started wiht the Crank - even after the ECU reset it took about 3 days (300 miles) of my driving for the ECu to realize the change of weight on the crank - and then one morning, it jsut all woke up and WOW!

I added the other 2 pulleys about a month later - and they seemed to help jsut as much as the crank only. My understadning on this, is that the MT cars wont benefit much from other pulleys - the crank pulley is all that is needed. The AUTO's benefit best from all 3.

The effect is only 20% on the accessories - no big deal - no changes. I have 2450 watts running on my custom stereo - 1 battery and 3 CAPS...all has been well for well over a month with the load.

 

Why would a auto g35 benefit from all 3 pullies while a 6mt will benefit most on only the crank pulley??? Also lets say there are some fundamental issues with installing pullies and they do cause extra vibrations, would it actually be better to install the whole pulley set then to just install the crank pulley??

 

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.co...mper_dinan.htm

The pulley schematic in the link is exactly that of the VQ pulley and most every other late OEM crank pulley. All the principles stated in the article do apply to the VQ. Read the article and you'll understand that the long and tired argument of "the VQ is interally balanced" doesn't apply. It have nothing to do with balance. It's harmonics.

Will the VQ fail? Probably not.

 

With the heavier drive train in an AT vs. the MT - there is more benefit for the AT to lighten as much as possible. On the dyno's, as I understand it, the 2-3 HP gain for an MT vs 4-6 on an AT make it hard to justify the expense of the additional pulley's on the MT.

Price per HP gain - the MT benefits more from all three. That doesn't mean that you couldn't or shouldn't install them all on the MT as well...jsut less benefit when the dollars can be better spent elswhere....like lightened flywheel, etc.

 

Ok guys, now I'm feeling more comfortable about doing pulleys on my car.

My question....

Since I have a 10-wire grounding kit, will it help eliminate some of the power loss from underdriving the accessories? Just curious.....

Jeff

 

bump

 

what kind of power losses are you referring to? if you're referring to the small loss due to underdriving the alternator, then the simple answer is "no." a grounding kit won't do anything for that.

 

And the crank on an inline 6 is TWICE AS LONG.

Your Dinan-sourced article is the same piece of tripe you feel compelled to trot out every time this discussion arises.

For once, your "on my Maxima..." crap might actually be applicable, seeing as at least it's a v6.

How many failures due to pullies can you present us on VG or VQ motors?

 

Agreed, the crank on an inline motor is much longer. Regardless, the VQ (and any BMW motor for that matter) is internally balanced. The issue is the crank has natural vibrations throughout the rev range, even when the rotating assembly is balanced. On one end is a clutch/flywheel/torque converter and on the other is a crank pulley driving the accessories. The clutch/flywheel/TC act as dampers and so does the stock pulley with it's two peice pulley with a sandwiched elastomer ring and multiple countersunk balancer points on the rear side of the pulley. All this keeps the harmonic vibrations in check. Take this away and the vibrations will go largely unchecked regardless if the UDP is perfectly balanced or not. The fact that companies like Unorthodox say "our pullies are perfectly balanced, therefore you don't need the balancer" is alarming. It is completely untrue and they're suppose to be the experts!!!!!!!!!!



zero. I've always said that. With 4-bolt mains and caps and a lower block girdle, the VQ was engineered for way more power. Just because there haven't been any failures doesn't mean this is a good mod.

 

since the harmonics are such an issue, i've told everybody about this before: fluidampr is a very well respected company who has been around for a while (the domestic guys would know about this). they don't harp on underdriving or lightening as much as unorthodox does, what they're concerned about is the dampening. check it out!

 

Fluidampr makes top-quality products in all regards.

This would be a recommended mod for anyone with a re-flash revving higher than stock, especially those concerned with longevity.

The second I get an L-spec, this is going on my car.

 

[QUOTE=ChicagoX]Fluidampr makes top-quality products in all regards. QUOTE]

I second that.

I don't really know what it does for the harmonic spectrum but I did see the damper PASTA installed on his G and it was top notch craftsman ship. Aerospace quality.

 

Is this a product that we are going to see gains from?

 

On our motors, I doubt if you would see a swing of more than 1-2 hp either way, tantamount to statistical "noise"

I have seen dyno pulls of race-prepped SBC motors turning a very un-pushrod like 7500 rpm. Before and after Fluidampr pulls were virtually identical, until around 6700 rpm. The Fluidampr made about 12-15 more hp from 6700-7500. (on a 500+hp 350)

The engine builder was the only one not surprised.