I had the injen at the time - probably not as good as the z-tube+k&n. I did not have the mid-pipe either at the time. Basically it was pulley, plenum and injen at the time. Ran with about 1/4 tank. I did a couple second burn out since we were forced into the water and then brake torqued at about 1800-2000 rpm.. I think having a AT is part of the equation for ET consistency as well, which I see you have. You do have extra weight over the sedan and I doubt there is a 20 hp/ft lb diff between coupe and sedan. If you get a plenum and another effective mod, you should get at least 14.2. To be honest I was surprised as were most spectators. I think I had a good day and a decent 2.19 60'. I did a quick reset of the ecu with the pedal method and drove it like I stole it all the way to atco. That will do more than the mods IMO...

Next time I will ice the plenum and perhaps work on keeping the MAF cool via some insulation or something. A cool airflow (rather cool MAF temp) in a 180-190 degree motor is the goal.

 

PS I am on Turanzas believe it or not. I think fatter tires on the coupe slow it down a notch with more rolling resistance. Also I upped my PSI to 40 in the front and put it at 30 I think in the rear. Bossho convinced me and I think is right in that if you lower to 20-25 - you create a larger contact patch that is split in middle where you want one patch in the middle. IOW, there is too much tire bog when you drop the PSI too far down. It makes a lot of sense to increase PSI for the front in any event. No need to bog the fronts down with resistance when they do essentially nothing in a straight line.

Also have the grounding wires which make the shifts crisper but I wouldn't attribute too much ET time savings to them.

 

Just installed it on my 5at. Here's my initial impressions.

First, the instructions suck. The photos are worthless. I'd like to thank Copbait for posting the pics on theis thread, they were very valuable. If you are going to install this yourself be sure that you have a good set of metric hex drivers (ball drivers would also be handy) and a lot of patience.

Vibration, at idle it is very noticeable through the steering wheel and pedals. While cruising it's thankfully very slight, only barely noticeable.

The only improvement in power might be at launch. Butt dyno isn't telling me anything through the rest of the power band.

Shifts, I am very happy to report that the automatic shifting seems cleaner and crisper.

Overall I'm happy with it initially. We'll see if it does anything for my times the next time I'm out at the track.

 

thx copbait and roneski...........i am looking forward to your subsequent posts on this mod......

 

No problem, glad they were of some help. Hopefully the vibrations you are getting subside a bit after some time, because I think overall this is a great mod!

 

I installed mine today - I had ordered it a while back.... I have so many thing still in boxes.... it's a sickness I tell you.

1) it was $115 at https://performancenissanparts.com

2) It absolutely added some vibration at Idle !!!, i may try and adjust the chamber to reduce that.

3) I have an AT, and i would say the shifts are a little sharper... but that is my Butt meter, so who knows... nothing special

4) install took 35 mins

 

Damn, you must have skinny little girl hands!

It took me about two hours because my fat hands just did not want to fit in there. Oh well.

Dave

 

Is the improvement from the damper worth putting up with extra vibrations in the steering wheel and pedals? Thanks.

 

i've kept an eye on this damper on a few other threads as well.

after tossing on the injen and prob some form of intake (future)

if i were to put this on my car would be fuggin horrid like driving an old beat malibu.

loud exhaust, car shakes. but to each his own i guess.

only way i could justify putting it on my car was if it was putting much more then the stock HP/TQ to the wheels.

keep us informed of the dyno's and results

thanks

ppp

 

I've personally seen a 5AT Coupe with Z-tube and Y-Pipe run a 14.0 at 100 mph at the track. Run your coupe. That's the only way you'll know for sure. There are too many variances to compare one run to another if you're not at the same track on the same day at the same time.

 

I actually do not notice that much more vibration in those areas, maybe a little but I just consider it natural "feedback"

 

Caelric: I think haveing the right tools is the issue. I didn't even cut loose the grund harness as they say at the lower mount. I set the mounnt in with Needle nose, and then set one alan bolt at a time in with n eedle nose and tightend... no biggie

As far as extra vibration, i will wait tilI I am done with my damping project, and then adjust the chamber and see if I can reduce it. If It is not acceptable I will likely remove it, as I don't think the improvement is worth the vibration

 

Oh, I have the right tools, including plenty of allen wrenches and such. I just really do have big hands and fat fingers.

And you know what they say about guys with big hands and feet...



Big gloves and shoes!

Oh, and I have not noticed any extra vibration at the wheel, pedals or shifter. Everything is actually smoother for me.

Dave

 

No, but I put the engine damper on before I put on the cats and exhaust.

Dave