Yes and no. Long story. Read below.

Before I showed up for my tuning, the mechanic at the shop had talked to the lead technician at Unichip to find out ahead of time if any wires needed to be altered on the harness. The mechanic had thought that one of the wired needed to be modified, but Unichip confirmed that no alterations needed to be made. So he downloaded various modified G/Z map files that would be our baseline to tune from.

When I showed up all was ready to go and a short while later he had the harness installed. Once the car started running on the dyno, we tried the closest map files based off of my modifications, but nothing was making any significant difference. After a bit of investigation, it turned out that the map files were reverting back to stock maps under load.

They tried to get the wiring schematic faxed to them that day, but it didn't show up until the next day. It turned out that the problem was indeed that a wire had to be cut and respliced into a different location. They didn't have time last week to make the alterations necessary and try tuning it again. So we're shooting for this week to get it done.

On a positive note: Even though we spent about 2+ hours basically to get the harness and Unichip ECU installed, I did make 2 hp and 2 tq more than my last dyno runs. 230 to the wheels with an auto! Whoo hoo! With tuning, we're expecting around 240whp.

I'll keep you posted.

 

good luck my friend and do keep us posted

 

What other mods besides headers, midpipe and (soon to be) unichip do you have? Also, what kind of dyno?

Thanks

 

My current performance mods are: K&N panel filter, Z tube, Motordyne 5/16" plenum spacer, UR crank pulley, GroundGear 10-wire grounding wires, ForcedFed headers, Gruppe-S y-pipe, and coupe mid-pipe. The dyno was a DynoJet 248 in-ground dyno.

 

I got some good pictures of the collector area, the welds at the collector, and a picture of the flange. Since I am not savy enough to know how to post them correctly, can someone post them for me if I e-mail them to you? (yes, it's sad, especially since I work in the IT field. D'oh!)

 

Thanks for the info. For picture hosting, try http://www.putfile.com/
it's easy and free. Then just use the [IMG] tag to add the image to a post.

 

Let's see if I did this correctly... Below should be pictures of the collector area (both inside and out) and one showing the flange thickness.

<a href='http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/16310183538.jpg&s=f5' target='_blank'><img src='http://f5.putfile.com/6/16310183538-thumb.jpg' alt='Click to enlarge'></a> <a href='http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/16310202225.jpg&s=f5' target='_blank'><img src='http://f5.putfile.com/6/16310202225-thumb.jpg' alt='Click to enlarge'></a> <a href='http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/16310192369.jpg&s=f5' target='_blank'><img src='http://f5.putfile.com/6/16310192369-thumb.jpg' alt='Click to enlarge'></a>

 

You did good on the pics.

Interesting collector design...kind of cool, even. I'm sure there will be one or two header know-it-alls who say it's bad design, but the dyno gains seem good. Since I'm NOT a header know-it-all, I think it looks like a good way to merge the flows.

 

Hmmm... I wonder why Stillen claims "equal length" in their catalog and website?

 

I wondered the same thing with all but the Crawford headers. Just a visual sizing up would show that they can't be equal length by my thinking. There must be some "technicality" that permits them to make such statements. Dunno.

With the power I made on the dyno with the headers, I couldn't care less if they were equal length or unequal length. More power is more power.

 

UPDATE:

I finally got a chance to have my Unichip tuned for all of my modifications. The garage where it was tuned was 95+ degrees the whole time, so the tuner was having a hard time getting an accurate tune with all the heat soak. Most runs came out around 232-235 rwhp. We wanted one final run before giving up for the day, so we let the car sit for 10 minutes with the shop's fan on top of the engine. After the final run was over, I was up over 10hp and almost 4 tq compared to my previous runs. 241 whp! I guess I finally can say my car is in the 300hp club (at the crank, of course).

Here's the dyno sheet:
<a href='http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/16718252069.jpg&s=f5' target='_blank'><img src='http://f5.putfile.com/6/16718252069-thumb.jpg' alt='Click to enlarge'></a>

If we can get a mid-80 degree day, we'll look at retuning. The heat soak is just too great to keep consistently running WOT time after time on the dyno with the outside temperature in the mid-90s.

Getting back to how these headers perform, a guy with a 350z/6spd/Injen intake/ForcedFed headers made 256whp while I was waiting. Not to shabby for only two mods.

 

Nice results. I wonder how you'd do with HFCs and the MREV 2 lower plenum. Probably hit 250 after a re-tune.

 

For anyone interested in these headers, I saw on My350z that ForcedFed has lowered the price from $499 to $449 for the month of July.

http://my350z.com/forum/showthread.p...ight=ForcedFed

 

That's awesome. Have you found anyone to install them for free though?

 

Some people just have to look in the mirror