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You can swap in the revup but it uses a different ECU IIRC, I've also heard about some "reliability" problems with it.
Honestly you should just put in another DE or contact zfever (now fever racing) and they can price out an HR swap for you.
Thank you for the direction Jimster, as always.
I would like to do the cheapest DE swap possible with the least amount of miles. My mechanic said that he found a DE for $1200 with 40-50k miles on it plus free shipping. This seems too good to be true, as most of the DE engines I found doing recent searches came up with way more miles for that price, and without free shipping(see below)
Also, most of these engines say that they are only compatible with the SEDAN BASE G35, and my car is the COUPE 6MT G35. From what I've been reading, I should be able to use any of the DE engines from 2003-2006 whether the engine is from a sedan or coupe,(swapping out some adapter piece near the flywheel if from A/T g35) but I'm not sure.
I would like to do the cheapest DE swap possible with the least amount of miles. My mechanic said that he found a DE for $1200 with 40-50k miles on it plus free shipping. This seems too good to be true, as most of the DE engines I found doing recent searches came up with way more miles for that price, and without free shipping(see below)
Also, most of these engines say that they are only compatible with the SEDAN BASE G35, and my car is the COUPE 6MT G35. From what I've been reading, I should be able to use any of the DE engines from 2003-2006 whether the engine is from a sedan or coupe,(swapping out some adapter piece near the flywheel if from A/T g35) but I'm not sure.
found an engine for $1399 from a place in Florida called Auto and Truck LLC that has 100 percent positive feedback.
The engine has 51,000 miles on it, JDM, and comes with a 90 day warranty/60 day full refund insurance.
The owner has expressed to me that the JDM motor will plug into my current ecu without issue, and will pass inspection in NY state without issue.
I have a mechanic that will swap the motor/ any needed accessories/sensors etc for 1000. (I will be keeping all of the thousands of dollars worth of sensors/hoses/parts from the other engine that I threw at it in attempts to fix, just in case this working engine has an issue going forward)<-------silver lining to this dark cloud, no money needs to be spent on parts, and I have an understanding of the milestones of part failure on this vehicle(and most Nissans/Infiniti's) somewhat better now.
I will let you all know how the swap goes, and again, thanks to everyone who tried to help me with old engine that had the failed connecting rods(probably cylinder 5 or 6, which had lowest compression when compared to the other cylinders, and is prone to failure according to many reports on the internet, as they are one of the first mechanical items to fail when modding this motor apparently, but usually only when you apply FI).
That's one clean engine! Hope it runs as good as it looks and if it does, racecar..........
thanks bud, im hoping it runs great. Ive almost completely lost the feeling of a good running sports car engine, so this will be a nice refresher for a while.
Im certainly interested in any used TT kits out there though, and possibly rebuilding the engine, or doing a Ls swap (with TT) in the future.
New JDM long block Engine installed with 52k miles on it. Looks brand new, all components came attached (throttle body, injectors, plenum, coil packs, coolant temp sensor, etc)
The Low power at low RPM, and bogging issue continues to happen....and now I have a P0328 Knock/Combustion Vibration Sensor 1 Circuit High Bank 1 or Single Sensor code
All help is welcomed, as I hate my life right now...but I really do love this car when it performs well...
My thoughts
1) fuel starvation. I am considering replacing the entire fuel sending unit/pump at this point back to stock. Also, the little silver tab that you push the gas pump nozzle into on the gas tank, is no longer there...can this cause fuel pressure issues?
2)front wheel speed sensors. I believe that these wheel speed sensors may have something to do with retarding the timing, due to me having aftermarket hubs , and the tonal ring not getting the correct rpm to the ecu... Though Gilley stated that this shouldb't be an issue, so I'm not leaning too hard in this direction
Edit:
3)Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. This could very well be screwing everything up as well
Last edited by dsheldon924; Feb 24, 2017 at 11:46 AM.
The problem to me appears to stem from the fuel system, specifically the little fuel pressure regulator attached to the fuel sending unit in the gas tank.
Would that make sense? Car is very heavy bogged and sluggish at low rpm, until 4k rpm, where the car suddenly lightens up and becomes sensitive and faster.
Also, i received a c1109 code for the abs, saying that the abs actuator isnt getting enough voltage? Any thoughts? Can this affect low end performance?
Installed a new fuel pump assembly(fuel sending unit, tiny fuel pressure regulator in tank included) and saw a subtle difference in performance at low end(good)
Installed a new passenger side fuel pressure regulator(Fuel Pressure Dampener) and evap hose that runs parallel with it and saw a HUGE difference in low end power(I think this may have been the problem the whole time)
Now, the car has amazing throttle response in certain areas of the rpm range, depending on when I WOT, but it still seems to have flat spots where it bogs down to nothing, and the knock sensor code P0328 mentioned above still remains
My thoughts, the spark plugs are fouled from the past rich running condition, and this is causing detonation in the cylinder due to lack of spark, and the knock sensor is sensing knock, retarding the timing when I'm feeling the flat spot bogging occur.
I am going to check the plugs and post pics today/tomorrow before I leave for Florida.
All comments are welcomed.
p.s. I still have the same custom tune on the car from ECS that was on the ecu when my last engines connecting rod fell apart. This could also be causing the issue, as this tune was for the last engine/setup (which is identical to the one I am running now). I have a generic tune sent from UpRev that is compatable with all of my mods, but still needs optimization by a dyno that I have the option to revert to as well...
