uuuuuhhhh 370z injectors????? Why?????Id definitely go with stock G35 injectors and a reflash of your ecu

 

hey uuuuh ceedar.. those were installed on the old engine that blew, and per the tuner that i bought them from, they are interchangeable injectors with the g35. Why? Because they were 40 bucks for the set versus 600 dollars new... any other brilliant questions bud?

youe definitely go with a reflash of ecu ehh? That cost s 500 dollars on dyno.. maybe any cheaper options?

Ps maybe consider adjusting your delivery when trying to help others.. you come off as a tool..

 

Instantly noticed a differenece after installing the fpr passengers side, and my car is running very erratic right now, but it seems to run very well when the spark from the plugs combines wih the fuel properly... im thinking the plugs may have already gotten fuel fouled from driving the new engine with the old seemingly defective fpd(fpr) .. so i just found 6 new oem plugs for 40 bucks on ebay .. i will let everyone know if installing the new plugs completes my journey of hell with this vehicle.. fingers crossed

 

First of all i am no tool lol , second if you playing in this game you gonna pay money , reflashing the ecu yourself is the cheapest route , but you wanna go pay for a dyno go ahead . Last but not least i apologize my response I was kind of A--hole lol .

 

no worries bud, I am just pretty frustrated with the fact that i replaced the engine in this car completely, and one of the supporting parts that work with the engine is still causing my issue where i can tap the gas pedal and the car bogs until it wakes up just past 4500rpm .. i have no idea what could possibly causing this at this point.. hopefully changing out the plugs will do something .. anything..

my next step is to check the brake booster vacuum , and reflash the ecu as you mentioned(however, unless anyone knows how to save the current locked flash that the dyno tuner applied, I WILL lose 500 dollars by reflashing, and need to spend another 500 to have it optimally tuned again on dyno- )i hope you can understand my hesitancy to reflash with that being said

 

I hear u man , have you had motor compression tested? Could be a bent rod , bad valve or something internal ? I am boosting my G soon this year and have 168k on motor , but if it passes compression leak down test , I'd do Jim wolf at low boost and have shop rebuild another VQ35DE for me , debating low or stock compression , but back to your issue hope you work that out , I will continue to follow thread . maybe I learn something new

 

Damn you replaced engine already , my overlook my bad

 

Its all good dude, thank you for trying to help... for some odd reasoni think that if i was a 16 year old kid with daddys money and a local custom repair shop, i feel as though i would already have slapped forced induction on this engine and stood next to my car smiling ready to utter "its no big deal" when people gawk in amazement at the 15 year old car that looks and performs better than most new stock cars

however thats not the case, and i am spending tons of hard earned money and time(getting great knowledge out of it though) attempting to just make an NA engine run properly with some small tasteful mods.. what a joke dude..

I hope your compression test passes on your motor.. i hear they are usually good for 200k minimum as long as you do reg oil changes

 

Thanks man , its no joke if you love doing it though

 

Just read this whole thread ....what a journey ...definitely gonna continue to follow and i hear the financial thing , ive been wanting to do this for the longest now i finally reach the point of having my car paid off end of this year my journey will begin lol , its a guy out here in MD who does all nissans id love to hear his take on this . i plan on having them do work on mine . Hills Garage . You definitely got the time and expertise down on this . Much luck and success on your build /troubleshooting

 

yeah i hope Hills Garage helps you out man. I may have just come across a bit of luck, as my best friend just put me in touch with his friend Tom who was very informative about Nissan engines, and spoke with me regarding the issue in depth yesterday. He feels as though the harness that connects to my fuel injectors may be faulty(so do I), the engine grounds may need to be added to, or the wiring harness from the ecu that meets the sub harness of the knock sensor may need to be replaced. We are going to get an multimeter and recheck everything when i get back from florida. Ill let you know how it goes, and thanks for the wish of luck. I definitely took you wrong at first bud. My apologies for speaking like that before.

 

havent gotten my buddys friend down here yet, but I have some pics of the plugs I just pulled with the number 2 cylinder looking like I need to replace valve cover gasket possibly.

 

SO, I just tried to reverse the car yesterday to leave a spot in the parking lot.

As usual, the gas pedal feels as though I have to press half way down on it in order to feel any type of response from the motor.

Out of nowhere, the car shuts off while I was trying to move it backwards, and the lights come on the dash. I started the car back up again, and the lights stayed on the dash, and I had minimal power from the engine( just enough to push the pedal to floor and have the car move ten feet slowly).

I turn the car off again for about ten seconds. I start it up again, and now I have a late christmas present on the dash board. THat's right, it's a CEL!

Now I know what you are thinking, why would a check engine light be considered a gift? Well, because number one, throughout my voyage, journey of hell, or adventure, whatever you would like to call it, there has been NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO ACTUALLY TELL ME WHAT IS WRONG. So here we are, one blown engine later, and the ecu finally decides to tell me just what the problem is...

P2135 Throttle Position Sensor and C1131 are my current codes.

Being that I have the same exact problem with this newer engine (50k miles on it), that came with a newer throttle body/TPS sensor attached, I am now hoping that the issue is the gas pedal (accelerator pedal position sensor), and yes, I HATE MY LIFE IF I JUST KILLED MY OLD ENGINE BECAUSE MY ELECTRONIC GAS PEDAL WASNT SENDING THE CORRECT SIGNAL AT THE CORRECT TIME TO MY THROTTLE PLATE TO OPEN AND COMPLIMENT THE ENGINE TIMING

Okay, now that I got that all out, found a used oem gas pedal that comes with the accelerator pedal position sensor attached for 50 bucks on ebay(sent). Also, this could be the wiring from the accelerator pedal position sensor to throttle body/ecu, or the ecu driver that sends the signal to throttle could be bad...

Everyone, I'm really hoping that I Install this gas pedal/sensor, and the car is sensitive and responsive in the 0-4k rpm range like it is supposed to be.... wish me luck, and god have mercy on any other human being walking the planet, that has dealt with such a stupid issue that can kill your engine if not found due to no CEL.

 

Hoping for you!

 

So, installing a different accelerator pedal/APP sensor didn't change anything.

I'm going to get an alternator/battery test done at advance auto to confirm that all the sensors are getting the voltage they need.

my buddys friend Tom is going to stop by and check the grounds/continuity from the engine to frame, and ECU to sensors(especially TPS/APP sensor due to that recent code that was set off)

Does anyone have a used engine harness, IPDM, and/or ECU laying around I can buy off of them by chance?

Man...there are still SO many possibilities even with the new engine:

1)Faulty Engine Harness
2)Faulty IPDM
3)Faulty ECU
4)Faulty front wheel speed sensors
5)Faulty/lazy upstream O2 sensor
6)Faulty brake booster
7)Clogged EGR(if that's even possible on this engine-PCV, cams control everything from what I've read)
8 )Fuel leak from...somewhere..(going to check fuel pressure under load)
9 )the knock sensor or sub harness IS actually bad on the new motor causing the same exact issue as last motor????(displaying knock code on startup, even before closed loop)

2003 G35 Coupe Aero 6MT Horizon Blue (vw 2016-custom) 105,000 (52K ENGINE) miles 05Apr2017
Stillen Headers, Stillen True Dual Catback, Stillen HFC's,
Stillen CAI/K&N,