Millions of post on this..
But currently what tire sizes are you guys running on the 19 coupe rays? with no issues...

I just ordered 255 40 19 for the rear
and the most common sizes ive read that is mostly used is for the front are
245 35 19 or 235 35 19

 

225/40/19 on the front and 245/40 on the rear is stock sizing.

 

Im running 235/40/19 on both front and rear at the moment, but that was chosen by the previous owner.

When I get new tires I will be running 225/40/19 and 245/40/19, which is what the factory sizes were if i'm not mistaken.

 

Thanks
I know the stock size I just wanted a little bigger.
The post I read were over 3 years old lol
So I just wanted to see what someone right now is currently running.
I went with 235 35 19 and 255 40 19
I wanted a little bigger without having issues with the vsd light.

 

Are you sure you didn't get the aspect ratio backwards? VDC stays happy as long as the rolling diameter of the tires is 3% or less. The 235/35 and 255/40 have a 5.75% difference, see this link:https://g35driver.com/forums/tire_rim_calculator.php Your VDC will not be happy and cause you all kinds of issues.

On the other hand a 235/40 and 255/35 setup yields a 1.44% difference: https://g35driver.com/forums/tire_rim_calculator.php Your VDC will sing like a bird and all will be well. ALWAYS use this calculator before making non-stock size tire decisions, it'll save you a huge headache. And ignore the offset numbers for these calculations as they are irrelevant to this conversation.

If you have time to change your order do it and if you don't........

 

I have 225/40-r19 front and 245/40-r19 rear but was thinking about 225/35-r19 front and 245/35-r19 rear for a lower profile look. Plus, I'm not sure if my coupe actually came with the rays, but I am having a problem with the YAW sensor. I have the slip and VDC off light on. I think mine may have came with 17" wheels and someone put on the 19" rays.

 

Check your wheel speed sensors, those are the correct tire sizes.

 

Ok found out that I have code C1145 and code C1105. being first: YAW Rate/Sensor Malfunction and second Left Rear ABS/Wheels Speed Sensor Malfunction. Also a knock sensor low input.

EDIT: The guy said LR but the code indicates RR.

This might be the cause of the faulty abs sensor lol or maybe I forgot to plug it in after the fix.

 

I think I see the problem from here! How did you manage to shatter the steering knuckle like that anyways?

 

I slid into a curb at no more than 15mph doing a burn out.

 

Ok that's all making sense now, it's likely that all 3 DTC are from the impact, I would check the back side of the engine where the knock sensor harness comes out (it's bolted to the top of the block under the intake manifold and completely inaccessible until you remove both the upper/lower plenum and the lower collector intake) it might just be damaged.

The bigger and more expensive concern is the yaw sensor, it's under the center console and probably broke but I would check it's harness as well, it's not cheap unfortunately. Wheel speed sensor is the easiest to check since it's accessible, did it get knocked loose or damaged.

 

Actually, the Slip and VDC off light have been on ever since I bought the car.... Not sure about the knock sensor low input code though. I know I don't want to tear the engine down just for that sensor. I was reading that it causes slower acceleration at highway speeds and lower fuel economy. I just want the slip light off. Truthfully, I don't care about the traction control much, but it would be nice to have the anti-lock brake system working right. I guess the YAW sensor and ABS has the ability to straighten you out in a slide? Another thing... the ABS light isn't even on. I just have the TPMS light, the slip light and the VDC Off light.

EDIT: Did some looking on ebay and found plenty of yaw sensors for around $20-$65

 

Ahh that's good you can get a used one for that cheap, they're about $600 for a new one. The knock sensor is one item I would definitely fix, iirc the entire variable cam timing system disables itself if it doesn't have the knock sensor signal because it can kaboom the motor otherwise (this motor lives and dies by the knock sensor) so you are losing a MASSIVE amount of power by not having it working. It's not really tearing the MOTOR down it's just removing the entire intake manifold which is tedious but most gaskets are reusable metal type, Just keep all the bolts separated and use an inch lb torque wrench to put it all back together.

The TPMS light on is separate from the VDC system, you probably just have a bad TPMS sensor in a tire.

 

It's code P0327 - Knock Sensor Circuit Low Input Bank 1. Basically meaning what you said. Lack/Loss of power and/or Check Engine Light which I don't have. Seems pretty peppy still. I know I am only getting about 13mpg in the city, but I don't baby it either. As you can see from the pic lmao.

 

Keep it to the track. Rip G steering knuckle. Anytime you hit a curb do a full suspension inspection for Christ’s sake.