hey i have a G35 2003 with 166,000 miles>can anyone suggest a good engine treatment . thanks

 

Engine treatment for what?

 

None. Just drive it hard and change the oil per manual.

 

Preventative maintenance is a pretty good treatment if you're willing to spend some time and money to keep your engine running good. Camshaft sensors, spark plugs, keep an eye on your oil consumption and keep it at least 4 quarts and that should be all your engine needs

 

Sea foam or better distilled water but takes longer, sprayed pre throttle body at 1500-2000 rpm's or per sea foam instruction.
Then;
Gunk engine oil cleaner per instructions (10 minutes idle((?)) then cheap synthetic oil using the same old filter (10 minute drive) then 4 1/2 quarts mobile 1 5w30 with 1/2 quart lucas synthetic oil additive & new oil filter. Catch can & magnetic plug would be good as well.
Then;
Power steering fluid, brake fluid, transmission oil and finally differential oil. If trans has been maintained, good, but if not, don't change trans oil.

 

The BEST engine treatment is replacing fluids on interval.

 

I 100% disagree with this, the particulates from the clutch packs and brake sleeves will continue washing around the system until either the filter traps them or the fluid is changed. There are still a LOT of particulates that get past the "filter" because it's just a metal strainer type that's designed to catch large particulates.

If motor oil hadn't been changed in a long time you wouldn't suggest someone to not change it because it's already old?

Don't power flush the transmission either, just drain/fill on interval or if the tranny has never been serviced then do drain/fills on consecutive oil changes until the fluid is normal color to get all the particulates out of the system.

 

[QUOTE=cleric670@gmail;7148007]I 100% disagree with this, the particulates from the clutch packs and brake sleeves will continue washing around the system until either the filter traps them or the fluid is changed. There are still a LOT of particulates that get past the "filter" because it's just a metal strainer type that's designed to catch large particulates

And I, along with 99% of those who know, 1000% disagree with.
" particulates from the clutch packs and brake sleeves will continue washing around the system until either the filter traps them or the fluid is changed." Yes, it will.

" If motor oil hadn't been changed in a long time you wouldn't suggest someone to not change it because it's already old? "

You're comparing apples to bowling ***** :icon.

 

The protocol I wrote above is what I did. Every change I ad 1/2 quart of Lucas Synthetic Additive (not a whole quart per a Lucas engineers instruction I spoke with). Good stuff

 

Better idea is to watch your oil dip stick keeping it up to the full line! (5 quarts) Camshaft sensors and spark plugs, your motor will let you know when they need replacing!
**We've seen so many issues with members using that Seafoam crud, I would strongly advise against it! Keep your air filter clean or replaced frequently and you won't have issues! Gunk? You'll never need to do this process (and shouldn't) if you use synthetic oil and change it every 3K miles! This is an old school process (60 years ago) they once used before we had synthetic oil, 3 quarts oil/2 quarts solvent and let you motor run at idle for 30 minutes, drain and replace oil and filter. Worked well in '50s and '60s era motors, wouldn't consider it with todays close tolerance motors!
Gary

 

I used seafoam in the tank & spray pre-throttle body. No issues whatsoever. I used water injection. No issues whatsoever. Lots of people have problems ewith lots of things because lots of people don't pay attention to details.
I wish I had photos of when I did the protocol I mentioned above. Not sure what people did 60 years ago but today, for my car, I did what I wrote above and the result was oil that was definitely worse than anything I had seen in my 15 year ownership with 3-5k mile oil change intervals using quality filters & mobile 1 5w 30 synthetic and of course topping the oil off from time to time (common sense).
Not sure what you're internals look like, but here's a couple shots of mine
Oil on towel on floor from catch can. Oil on towel in hand from engine (approx 3k miles) and black stain from a very strong drain plug magnet.

I jack it up - good to the last drop.


Valves look pretty ****ing clean.

 

Catch cans are a good idea, but their singular purpose is keeping oil residue out of the upper plenum nothing else! When I installed my Motordyne spacer in '04 I discovered slight oil stains inside the plenum knowing it wasn't good I installed my first catch can (Home depot) and moved on to a better can a while later!...Gary

 

[QUOTE=gary c;7148093]Catch cans are a good idea, but their singular purpose is keeping oil residue out of the upper plenum nothing else!
Actually, if the unit is worth a ****, it should catch a majority of the oil as well as unspent fuel in the exhaust gas, all of which would otherwise be passed through both collectors then into the intake manifold and then into the combustion chambers. Ever smell the oil in your catch can? Ever notice the difference in color vs oil from the engine as noted in my photos?

[QUOTE=gary c;7148093]Catch cans are a good idea, but their singular purpose is keeping oil residue out of the upper plenum nothing else!
Anyway, it's called an oil catch can, so....your point is?

 

Is there a catch can for anything else besides oil? Be sure to let us know...
My point being members here on Driver think OIL CATCH CANS are a fix all for everything including OC (oil consumption) in reality it has no effect on anything but keeping oil residue out of the upper plenum!

 

Who's us, you and the mouse in your pocket? Kidding. Perhaps some believe the c.c. is a fix-all (?) but most do not.