3/26 DYNODAY: Aftermath and Shout-outs
It's on? It's BEEN on! DUH!!!
Just like when you were asking:
"Dru-san, wut eej dis? Eet no work! Eet bro kun? Mebbe go onu mai feetu?"
Just like when you were asking:
"Dru-san, wut eej dis? Eet no work! Eet bro kun? Mebbe go onu mai feetu?"
Last edited by MEECHIN; May 24, 2007 at 05:54 PM.
Here is my dyno with a 5at. The 1st and 2nd pulls were in 3rd and the last one was in 4th. The owner of the dyno shop said if anyone needs the dyno files send him a email and he will send it to you. I'm going to get mine in actual for some reason the actual was higher for some people. I'm going today to get my car dynoed with the kinetix and 3/8 spacer at the shop I always go to. I'll post results later and my mods are in my sig. I forgot to say thanks for the dyno day and nice to meet everyone I enjoyed myself. Enjoy the pics of Mark preparing to install a spacer and his "muddy" plenum. J/K 
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From: Toh-rensa,Ahteesia,Ahcadia,Montree Pak, Longa Beacha
Steve just emailed me all the G35 and 350z files. I'm at work, so I can't open them yet, but the zip files were ok.
I think the shop did a great job of hosting us, putting up with us constantly getting in the way. Let's do another dyno day there sometime in the future.
I think the shop did a great job of hosting us, putting up with us constantly getting in the way. Let's do another dyno day there sometime in the future.
DsSkyline... Actuals will always be different than SAE corrected unless the temp/humidity/pressure are exactly what the SAE standard is.
Higher or lower isn't the issue, actuals aren't very meaningfull, they just add further inaccuracy when comparing stuff.
Is your charts shown above actual or SAE ? (I can't see on the border)
Higher or lower isn't the issue, actuals aren't very meaningfull, they just add further inaccuracy when comparing stuff.
Is your charts shown above actual or SAE ? (I can't see on the border)
Originally Posted by Sickone
DsSkyline... Actuals will always be different than SAE corrected unless the temp/humidity/pressure are exactly what the SAE standard is.
Higher or lower isn't the issue, actuals aren't very meaningfull, they just add further inaccuracy when comparing stuff.
Is your charts shown above actual or SAE ? (I can't see on the border)
Higher or lower isn't the issue, actuals aren't very meaningfull, they just add further inaccuracy when comparing stuff.
Is your charts shown above actual or SAE ? (I can't see on the border)
How long did you guys wait before you dynoed? I pulled about 1hr after driving up from san diego. I was thinking I should of let my car cool down more. The yellow Z pulled 235 hot waited 3hrs then pulled 250 after cooling down.
Originally Posted by Sickone
DsSkyline... Actuals will always be different than SAE corrected unless the temp/humidity/pressure are exactly what the SAE standard is.
Higher or lower isn't the issue, actuals aren't very meaningfull, they just add further inaccuracy when comparing stuff.
Is your charts shown above actual or SAE ? (I can't see on the border)
Higher or lower isn't the issue, actuals aren't very meaningfull, they just add further inaccuracy when comparing stuff.
Is your charts shown above actual or SAE ? (I can't see on the border)
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From: Toh-rensa,Ahteesia,Ahcadia,Montree Pak, Longa Beacha
Originally Posted by Dsskyline
How long did you guys wait before you dynoed? I pulled about 1hr after driving up from san diego. I was thinking I should of let my car cool down more. The yellow Z pulled 235 hot waited 3hrs then pulled 250 after cooling down.
I wil post pics when I have time, I don't know if I can tell a diff... but letting it suck hot air is just bad....
As far as dynoing cold(er) the number will of course be better, but again effect accuracy. You want as few variables as possible. The car should warm (not smoking hot) I think 190 degree coolant temp is the standard. Otherwise you are just kidding yourself (if your temp gauge isn't where is normally is, then it is just an inaccurate number).
If you just want high numbers, let your car get stone cold, and warm it up just enough to get the oil to temp, make sure the air hitting the air intake is as cold as possible, etc... you will get much better numbers.
I drove (and drove hard) 105 miles, dyno'd 50 minutes later....
The best would be to drive around at a fair speed (so air has moved through and stuff is at real temps, not super cold, and not all heat soaked) then pull right in to the bay and dyno.
As far as dynoing cold(er) the number will of course be better, but again effect accuracy. You want as few variables as possible. The car should warm (not smoking hot) I think 190 degree coolant temp is the standard. Otherwise you are just kidding yourself (if your temp gauge isn't where is normally is, then it is just an inaccurate number).
If you just want high numbers, let your car get stone cold, and warm it up just enough to get the oil to temp, make sure the air hitting the air intake is as cold as possible, etc... you will get much better numbers.
I drove (and drove hard) 105 miles, dyno'd 50 minutes later....
The best would be to drive around at a fair speed (so air has moved through and stuff is at real temps, not super cold, and not all heat soaked) then pull right in to the bay and dyno.
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From: Toh-rensa,Ahteesia,Ahcadia,Montree Pak, Longa Beacha
I posted this on my350z.com, but this is meant for those who like to overanalyze dyno plots like myself.
My plots with WinPEP were looking different depending on if the X-axis is MPH vs. RPM. This is for a given run, not different runs.
When the HP is plotted against speed and with a second graph showing RPM at the bottom, you can see that just after 5.97K RPM, the reading is off on the RPM. The torque jumped during this time, so maybe the tires slipped. But I get reliable RPM readings later, around 6300-6600 RPM. I didn't plot the torque with this one, because the picture was getting too complex.
But once the RPM reading is off, the plot of HP vs RPM stops. I can't get any data to show up after that point.
Notice that my max HP is reduced in the second plot, because it's only going up to 5.97K RPM, even though the exact same run really went up to 6600 RPM.
These plots still look different from the printout, so maybe they were using a different version of the software. My max HP is at 6500 here, on the printout it's between 6600 and 6700. Close enough.
My plots with WinPEP were looking different depending on if the X-axis is MPH vs. RPM. This is for a given run, not different runs.
When the HP is plotted against speed and with a second graph showing RPM at the bottom, you can see that just after 5.97K RPM, the reading is off on the RPM. The torque jumped during this time, so maybe the tires slipped. But I get reliable RPM readings later, around 6300-6600 RPM. I didn't plot the torque with this one, because the picture was getting too complex.
But once the RPM reading is off, the plot of HP vs RPM stops. I can't get any data to show up after that point.
Notice that my max HP is reduced in the second plot, because it's only going up to 5.97K RPM, even though the exact same run really went up to 6600 RPM.
These plots still look different from the printout, so maybe they were using a different version of the software. My max HP is at 6500 here, on the printout it's between 6600 and 6700. Close enough.
