your probably running pretty rich on the top end, get a dyno and find out. From what I got from my mods, I got all over again when I tuned. Its a great mod, you wont be disappointed

 

Diamond, look at the bold part. Although you "probably" won't need a tune, all cars are different. And the only way to tell is if you get it dyno'd to see what your PARTICULAR car's a/f are. But since your bro is a tech, he might be able to run your car on a handheld consult and look for you. ie.. test run.

BTW. Since he's a tech, have him advance your timing a few degrees.

 

Actually that's incorrect. The ecu is plenty powerful. But the reasons for a tune aren't due to the ecu's power. It's the programming

At anything less than WOT, the ecu should be able to use it's closed loop program to adjust a/f ratios to it's target value. ie.. 14:1, 13:1 or whatever.

BUT at WOT, where the ecu is using it's open loop program is when it needs help.

I could be mistaken. But I haven't read of too many guys needing a/f tunes at part throttle. At least not with any na mods.

 

I personally don't think the ECU "learns" that much.....you see what I have in my sig, and I am running lean. I want to get headers, but running lean is dangerous, and the more "breather mods" you install the leaner your car will run. As far as tuning, there is a broad range of what you can do, Apexi Safc, Utec, reflashes all will achieve what you need. depending on what your budget is will determine what you will get.
My last Dyno I had a 14.5-14.8 lean condition, prime would be 13ish.

 

Wow....

This actually is turning into a pretty informative thread. I'm impressed.

I have contacted MRC to see if they can reflash. I really don't want or need something like a UTEC with 5 different positions fully adjustable, etc.

But I do want to optimize and I do want to run safe.

 

im doing the same

 

Good choice.

 

OK, lets focus on the question at hand......are you safe? Maybe........if it's real cold and the gas you use somehow didn't reach it's 91-93 octane, and you happen to race so fool on a emty roadway.......you MAY be in trouble. The reason you don't read much about people getting retunes for "simple" breather mods is not many people think they should! alot of guys on here go by what the G gods say.......Every car is slightly different......I have stopped modding until I get a retune. It's the safest thing to do.......you problably be safe, but the extra measures wouldn't hurt. Nobody really knows what unsafe is on every engine. Now my question for you is, Why is UTEC overkill? I would think it would be the best choice......you have upgradabilty(sp). A reflash would be good till the next mod, then guess what reflash. If you look around you can get real good deals on UTEC. Just my opinion......get what makes you happy.

Good Luck

 

Also if you tune it yourself, you have to have the knowledge to do so safely.

 

BTW: Considering he just said what I said, but just wanted to make a point of being an ***, he's a "probably" a perfect match for that guy you know who "probably" likes guys, you've just never really asked

Typos FTL?

 

Thanks for that info. That is my main concern is my engine's longevity. I have no intentions on modding my car further (that is unless I win the lotto :P ), so a reflash will do the job.

 

I have been advise against a re-flash. It's sort of like putting a large patch over a small cut and hoping you can absorbe the blood.

I'd rather something more personally tuned to my car.

 

Ok, sorry for being ignorant, but can someone explain to me what the different tuning methods are (chip/reflash/timing) and what they do? I've been wondering this myself for a while now and I have the same mods sans the exhaust.

 

Ok, this most of this tuning stuff has to do with how much air & fuel you are burning with each stroke of your pistons......now before I go farther let me just say I am trying to explain this in it's simplest forms.....so when you guys start saying there is more to this, yes there is, this is a crash course............
When your car is not burning enough fuel it is called a lean condition and is bad.....on the reverse side having to much fuel and not enough air is rich......a rich condition is "back firing" that's when unburned fuel is burning in the exhaust....still bad , but lean is worse. Timing is has to do with the duration that your valves are open to allow air/fuel into the cylinder. That's the basics....there is ALOT more that I am nowhere qualified in detailing. tuneing just alows you to control the iming, fuel and air that your vehicle is using and when.

 

That's incorrect. There is TWO timing terms. Ignition timing and cam timing.

That is correct.

Again if you are referring to ign timing above also, you would be incorrect. Ign timing is when the spark plug is told to fire in relation to the piston position.