Put my 5AT sedan on the dyno...weak sauce!
#16
02-28-2009, 11:14 PM
I've seen dyno numbers posted anywhere from 210RWHP-230RWHP stock. Dyno numbers depend on alot of factors just like track times. IIRC, the 280HP bump in 05 was becuase of new SAE horsepower regulations.
Density altitude plays a huge part in ET times. You are trapping very low, should be 96-97 MPH with a 2.1-2.2 60' time. What were your 60's?
Density altitude plays a huge part in ET times. You are trapping very low, should be 96-97 MPH with a 2.1-2.2 60' time. What were your 60's?
The big question here is...what could be wrong? I've changed recently the spark plugs, air filter and oil. Anything else?
Last edited by GT-ER; 02-28-2009 at 11:29 PM.
#17
03-01-2009, 12:43 AM
I've seen that sedans are just about as quick as the coupe, but the fact does exist that they are lighter. So is it FACT that they have the same power ( as in, has someone proved it? ) or is it just an asumption? While I do agree that louder exhaust don't always = better power...most of the time they actually do. I mean, let's face it...the weight difference is small...but so is 20chp.
I fully agree that my car does seem slower than it should. I unfortunately have no other sedan to compare to here in PR and all the coupes here are mostly manuals. My 60' were 2.2.
The big question here is...what could be wrong? I've changed recently the spark plugs, air filter and oil. Anything else?
I fully agree that my car does seem slower than it should. I unfortunately have no other sedan to compare to here in PR and all the coupes here are mostly manuals. My 60' were 2.2.
The big question here is...what could be wrong? I've changed recently the spark plugs, air filter and oil. Anything else?
The coupe is about 70lbs heavier. 1/4 mile wise, it's pretty much a wash between a 260hp sedan and a 280hp coupe. On the dyno, the car's are within 5whp. As for the exhaust, the only difference is in the midpipe and muffler design. There's no power made with the coupe/Z cross flow style muffler. If anything, that style muffler is more restrictive than the straight through design of the sedan.
As for your G's performance at the strip, like I've said before, you need to hold 3rd the whole run. A shift into 4th kills ET by around .2 seconds and MPH by 2mph. Just doing that would put your G in the 14.7@94mph range which is average. You've also said you only powerbraked to 2000rpms. You should really be leaving the line at 2400rpms. It will stall up that high if you mash your foot to floor on the brake and hit the gas to the floor on gas and release the brake a second later. The other problem could be that fact that the track is just slow. Some tracks are normal, some fast, and some slow. I'm consistently .3 seconds and 2mph slower at a track 2 hours south of my normal track. I change nothing in the car, the 60 foots are the same, but the car is slower. It's been that way with every car. When I took my Z28 to Houston, it ran .3 seconds and 2mph faster than it did at my track here in Kansas City.
Other issues could be a dirty MAF or a slight vacuum leak.
#18
03-01-2009, 12:49 AM
I'll be putting my 03 5at sedan on the dyno march 28th, so I'll post in this thread for comparison purposes. Mods are listed below, and will also have fresh Amsoil in the engine, tranny, and diff, along with fresh spark plugs. The air filter was just replaced about a month ago. We'll see how it goes! I'm hoping to see 230whp, but I have a feeling that's shooting high.
#19
03-01-2009, 12:50 AM
The coupe is about 70lbs heavier. 1/4 mile wise, it's pretty much a wash between a 260hp sedan and a 280hp coupe. On the dyno, the car's are within 5whp. As for the exhaust, the only difference is in the midpipe and muffler design. There's no power made with the coupe/Z cross flow style muffler. If anything, that style muffler is more restrictive than the straight through design of the sedan.
As for your G's performance at the strip, like I've said before, you need to hold 3rd the whole run. A shift into 4th kills ET by around .2 seconds and MPH by 2mph. Just doing that would put your G in the 14.7@94mph range which is average. You've also said you only powerbraked to 2000rpms. You should really be leaving the line at 2400rpms. It will stall up that high if you mash your foot to floor on the brake and hit the gas to the floor on gas and release the brake a second later. The other problem could be that fact that the track is just slow. Some tracks are normal, some fast, and some slow. I'm consistently .3 seconds and 2mph slower at a track 2 hours south of my normal track. I change nothing in the car, the 60 foots are the same, but the car is slower. It's been that way with every car. When I took my Z28 to Houston, it ran .3 seconds and 2mph faster than it did at my track here in Kansas City.
Other issues could be a dirty MAF or a slight vacuum leak.
As for your G's performance at the strip, like I've said before, you need to hold 3rd the whole run. A shift into 4th kills ET by around .2 seconds and MPH by 2mph. Just doing that would put your G in the 14.7@94mph range which is average. You've also said you only powerbraked to 2000rpms. You should really be leaving the line at 2400rpms. It will stall up that high if you mash your foot to floor on the brake and hit the gas to the floor on gas and release the brake a second later. The other problem could be that fact that the track is just slow. Some tracks are normal, some fast, and some slow. I'm consistently .3 seconds and 2mph slower at a track 2 hours south of my normal track. I change nothing in the car, the 60 foots are the same, but the car is slower. It's been that way with every car. When I took my Z28 to Houston, it ran .3 seconds and 2mph faster than it did at my track here in Kansas City.
Other issues could be a dirty MAF or a slight vacuum leak.
Track could be slow though...it's not the first time I get "slowish" times on a car. I wish I could race against another sedan though.
I also cleaned my maf...I would love to get a scanner to see if my LTFT are off though...might show if there is a vac leak or if the 02 sensors are weak ( car has 90K miles ).
#23
03-01-2009, 01:43 AM
so what all those high HP cars under your belt, that are the goals for the g35 ?
the engine is the same across the board, small ECU tuning and exhaust are different but a dyno shows that most 260rated and 280 rated different by 5whp which in turns means nothing. some people say the curve is moved around.
i say 200whp is reasonable for a g35 auto, i'm expecting less for mines but thats because i'm AWD.
the engine is the same across the board, small ECU tuning and exhaust are different but a dyno shows that most 260rated and 280 rated different by 5whp which in turns means nothing. some people say the curve is moved around.
i say 200whp is reasonable for a g35 auto, i'm expecting less for mines but thats because i'm AWD.
#24
03-01-2009, 07:37 AM
do a compression test to make sure you are making good power out of each cylinder.
if thats fine do a 100k mile tune up if you havent done any major maintanence lately....change the plugs, change the oil/filter, change the auto tranny fluid, change the drive belt, change the air filter, change the power steering fluid, change the rear diff fluid....power should come up nicely.
could just be a result of the bad intake plenum design, the spacer could help greatly there.
if thats fine do a 100k mile tune up if you havent done any major maintanence lately....change the plugs, change the oil/filter, change the auto tranny fluid, change the drive belt, change the air filter, change the power steering fluid, change the rear diff fluid....power should come up nicely.
could just be a result of the bad intake plenum design, the spacer could help greatly there.
#25
03-01-2009, 09:36 AM
do a compression test to make sure you are making good power out of each cylinder.
if thats fine do a 100k mile tune up if you havent done any major maintanence lately....change the plugs, change the oil/filter, change the auto tranny fluid, change the drive belt, change the air filter, change the power steering fluid, change the rear diff fluid....power should come up nicely.
could just be a result of the bad intake plenum design, the spacer could help greatly there.
if thats fine do a 100k mile tune up if you havent done any major maintanence lately....change the plugs, change the oil/filter, change the auto tranny fluid, change the drive belt, change the air filter, change the power steering fluid, change the rear diff fluid....power should come up nicely.
could just be a result of the bad intake plenum design, the spacer could help greatly there.
#26
03-01-2009, 09:39 AM
so what all those high HP cars under your belt, that are the goals for the g35 ?
the engine is the same across the board, small ECU tuning and exhaust are different but a dyno shows that most 260rated and 280 rated different by 5whp which in turns means nothing. some people say the curve is moved around.
i say 200whp is reasonable for a g35 auto, i'm expecting less for mines but thats because i'm AWD.
the engine is the same across the board, small ECU tuning and exhaust are different but a dyno shows that most 260rated and 280 rated different by 5whp which in turns means nothing. some people say the curve is moved around.
i say 200whp is reasonable for a g35 auto, i'm expecting less for mines but thats because i'm AWD.
#27
03-01-2009, 10:14 AM
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fargo ND/Eden Prairie MN
Posts: 21,010
Received 205 Likes
on
157 Posts
I'll be putting my 03 5at sedan on the dyno march 28th, so I'll post in this thread for comparison purposes. Mods are listed below, and will also have fresh Amsoil in the engine, tranny, and diff, along with fresh spark plugs. The air filter was just replaced about a month ago. We'll see how it goes! I'm hoping to see 230whp, but I have a feeling that's shooting high.
Intake, and HKS+coupe mid on my car made 227whp.
Im dynoing agan this spring. Shooting for 240whp.
#28
03-01-2009, 11:37 AM
Wow! How did you do that? 278HP/liter is impressive, right up there with Formula One cars. How long did it last? And how did you measure it?
#29
03-01-2009, 04:45 PM
#30
03-01-2009, 05:44 PM
so you only had a 400whp GTI not a 500whp....
i had a very similiar turbo on my SR20 powered 200sx and i was only in the 280whp but at 11psi. It was hard enough to control.
your stock whp shouldn't even matter, get the mods in and see what you can pull...
and LOL @ the 10 second. I never see why the magic number is 10... We have ttrank on here with 500whp under the hood but i dont think its a 10 second car...
i had a very similiar turbo on my SR20 powered 200sx and i was only in the 280whp but at 11psi. It was hard enough to control.
your stock whp shouldn't even matter, get the mods in and see what you can pull...
and LOL @ the 10 second. I never see why the magic number is 10... We have ttrank on here with 500whp under the hood but i dont think its a 10 second car...