If no filter is the best flowing, then why did you lose hp on the dyno?

 

I actually said it on my first post. On all the runs power was being lost slightly from run to run. Nothing changed by removing the filter which was the whole point...or are you saying that a K&N flows better than no filter at all?

 

Do you always make it a habit to add K&N where it has nothing to do with the conversation?

 

Because the whole point of this topic is just that...but you keep arguing over it. If YOU think the K&N makes more power...good for you. If you're just looking to argue...then I'm not.

 

Actually, I stated that a JWT popcharger would be a better intake from stock. Reason is simple, it has more surface area to draw air from compared to the stock box.

The K&N, with everything equal, will make more power than the fram filter. But keep using your misguided "logic" and making yourself look like a bigger ***.

 

Always good to measure the real area of a filter. Disassemble and Iron flat: oem, aftermarket, and K&N. You will see the pleat depth is greater on oem = more flow area in square inches.

OEM has more square area than K&N cone but cotton is less restrictive than paper so you use a manometer to measure the 1-1.5 inches of water restriction of each filter.

27.7 inches of water = 1.0 psi which is ~~ 6.8% restriction so 1.5/27.7 =0.0542 x 6.8% or less than 4/10th of a percent restriction.

1.2 Horsepower is a minor thing to keep all the dirt out of an engine.

 

heh....you reminded me of my friend who thinks Bebe makes better $99 T-shirt than cheap places Ross when they are all tagged with " 100% cotton, wash with warm water only, MADE IN CHINA "

 

an air filter will straighten out and smooth the air flow.

without a filter, the air is very turbulent, and therefore the MAF will not be able to get an accurate reading, and thus HP loss.

 

Actually, irrevelant here. He's on the stock airbox. Even if all the air went straight though, it's though a rectanangular filter and it still has to be straightened again before it passes past the maf sensor. That thing that gives the maf the most consistent reading is most likely the velocity stack not the filter.

 

The problem that nobody has addressed yet...is that the ECU is self adjusting. Sometimes it can take a week or two to completely adjust itself to the new part. You can't ever just swap across and have end results.

Oh, and even Q45 in his infinite wisdom has shown you the technical side of how it works and why the K&N is better, if only a small percentage.

 

Q45 is advising against it.

 

Q45 did advise against it but also showed hp increase of only 1.2. He advises against the k &n due to better dirt filtering of a paper dry filter.